Follow Adventure Consultants on their 2002 post-monsoon expedition to the SW ridge of Ama Dablam.
Expedition Leader: Bill Crouse - USA
Team Members: Alan Gianotti - USA, Brian DeCamp - USA, Jay Foutch - USA, Andy Taylor - New Zealand
Expedition Sirdar: Ang Tshering Sherpa
Climbing Sirdar: Phu Tashi Sherpa
Base Camp Cook: Dawa Sherpa
Saturday 19 October - Rest in the village of Khumjung
The Ama Dablam Expedition team members have been trekking ever upwards from Lukla, where they arrived by plane from Kathmandu on October 16, to the bustling village of Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,287ft). After a night spent in the ‘Sherpa capital’ they visited the bustling Saturday market today before heading up the rapidly ascending trail to the village of Khumjung. Here they will be guests at the Expedition Sirdar’s lodge, the home of Ang Tshering.
Views of Ama Dablam, showing their ascent route, have been visible from Namche and Khumjung and the team have been taking in the highlights including the famous Khumjung Bakery and visiting nearby Kunde Hospital, which is run by the Himalayan Trust from New Zealand. The expedition should reach Ama Dablam base camp by the afternoon of October 22, where we hope to hear news of their progress.
Friday 25 October - The team have returned from Advanced Base Camp (ABC)
Expedition leader Bill Crouse reports that the team is going strong and the weather has been good. After a trip to ABC at 5,600m yesterday, everyone slept well and awoke to a stunning sunrise and hearty breakfast cooked by Ang Tshering. The team will rest at base camp today, and then return to ABC tomorrow or the next day. They will then overnight at ABC, and carry onto Camp 1, visiting Camp 2 and returning to sleep at C1 as part of the acclimatisation process. The team will then climb through to Camp 3, and make their summit bid. They send their best wishes to family and friends. We will update their progress on the ascent.
Saturday 2 November - SUCCESSFUL SUMMIT!
Expedition leader - Bill Crouse (USA) reports the expedition team departed Camp III at 9.00am with all team members arriving on the summit between 11.20am and 12.20pm on Saturday 2 November. Bill, Phu Tashi Sherpa (Nepal), Andrew Taylor (NZ), Jay Foutch and Brian DeCamp (USA) made the climb to the summit in clear conditions but a very cold – 20 ºC. They then descended to Camp II that day, and the following day descended to Base Camp.
Bill reported that all team members were in good spirits and they had got some spectacular photos and video footage. Their plan is to descend to Phu Tashi Sherpa's lodge in Upper Pangboche to recover for a few days, where Bill will meet up with Alan Gianotti (USA) for another summit attempt of Ama Dablam. Due to his schedule Alan could not make the initial summit attempt so he has been acclimatising whilst trekking in the Khumbu and will make a summit attempt with Bill and Phu Tashi in the coming days. The rest of the expedition team will depart Nepal or go trekking, and we will report on progress of the second summit attempt.
Congratulations to Bill, Phu Tashi, Andrew, Jay and Brian on a great effort, and welcome to Alan, we wish you well on your climb to 6,828m!
Monday 11 November - SECOND SUMMIT BID A SUCCESS!
Expedition leader - Bill Crouse reports that Alan Gianotti (USA) has successfully summitted Ama Dablam with Phu Tashi Sherpa (Nepal). They departed Camp III shortly after 9am, arriving on the summit at 12.35pm in favorable weather conditions. The team will return to Camp II, overnight there and then continue down to base camp. Congratulations Alan!
Tuesday 12 November - Summit team on their way to base camp
Bill Crouse has reported that the summit team have departed CII for base camp today. The expedition team will then pack up base camp on Wednesday and head to Khumjung Village, where they will spend time with our Sherpa friends. They will then continue onto Lukla, and are scheduled to fly to Kathmandu on the 16th November.