The Expedition Trip Notes provide detailed information and background for Adventure Consultants' Alpamayo Expedition.
You can view the trip notes online by clicking the image or download a pdf by clicking the following link:
Alpamayo and Artesonraju 2020 Trip Notes
The team will have a maximum size of 8 members and 4 guides. The operation of the expedition is subject to minimum team numbers being met.
There is a guide to client ratio of 1:2 for this expedition.
The expedition leader will be scheduled approximately six months out from the trip start. All of our trip leaders have extensive experience at altitude and a proven record of safety, success and compatibility.
Head Office Support Team
Running successful journeys and expeditions is more about experience, knowledge and strategic management than any other factors. As an organisation, we place a substantial amount of time and resources into ensuring our trips are well planned and supported. You can be assured that the AC staff will provide you with friendly advice and knowledgeable support throughout the planning stages of your trip and we will be there to provide backup while the trip is running.
Hayley Furze, Client Liaison
Hayley joins the AC team with a wealth of experience working in the tourism and hospitality industry along with a love of travel. She works as Client Liaison on a number of our European and international ascents, treks and expeditions.
Expedition members will be provided with pre-trip medical advice and a medical questionnaire and asked to visit their family physician to receive a full medical examination. This information will be sighted only by the expedition leader and our medical adviser and treated with full confidentiality.
Level of Experience Required
To climb Alpamayo and Artesonraju you need to be physically fit, have strong mental stamina and be capable of strenuous exercise for several days duration. Expedition members can expect to be exerting themselves for about six hours per day and be capable of carrying a 20kg/45lb pack.
Climbing at altitude affects people differently; most climbers notice a lower performance rate than normal. Our climbing days are mostly short to accommodate this and vital rest days are usually welcomed! Our graduated acclimatisation program allows you to progressively consolidate your fitness. See our Fitness Training Programs for information on how we can help you prepare for the expedition.
This expedition is advanced in nature. From the altitude to the technical nature of the climbing, prospective members should have experience with multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), and be comfortable following Grade 4 ice climbs, and have climbed at altitude.
Each of our trips is individually rated according to its physical and technical difficulty, displayed in the icons towards the top of each trip page. You can click on the accompanying question mark for additional descriptions and the full run-down of our grading system is available on our Difficulty Ratings page.
What You Carry
Your packs will be carried by mules to Base Camp. Once at Base Camp team members will be required to carry their own gear and their share of group gear on the mountain, although we have some porter assistance arranged for the group. A typical summit day pack should be no more than 6–10kg/15–20lb.
Nevado Alpamayo, as it’s more correctly known, is situated in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. With its twenty-nine summits at over 6,000m, the Cordillera Blanca forms but a small part of the Andes chain, which lies down the whole of the western side of South America. Alpamayo doesn’t quite reach that rounded figure of 6,000m, but makes up for its relative lack of height in aesthetic beauty.
The first attempt on Alpamayo’s summit was in 1948 by a Swiss expedition. Climbing by way of the heavily corniced North ridge, the three climbers came within sight of the virgin summit when a large cornice broke under them, and they were carried down the precipitous North-West face. By some amazing piece of good fortune, the three were neither buried nor injured by the 200m/650ft fall and they were able to make an 'orderly retreat' from the mountain.
In 1957 a German expedition led by Günter Hauser, comprising some of Germany’s strongest climbers succeeded in climbing Alpamayo via its South Ridge. Although no less steep, nor less dangerous than the North ridge, this ridge had the tremendous advantage of leading directly to the higher South summit.
Summit day consists of 500m/1,600ft of perfect two-tooled ice and névé (Styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. A climber knows they are close to reaching the top when they begin to see light through the face from the other side.
During the expedition, you will enjoy high-quality Western food as well as popular local dishes. One of the highlights of this expedition is the high-quality meals that are prepared by our local staff. Please indicate any specific dietary requirements you may have on your application form. For special diets such as vegan and gluten/dairy-free, we will call you to discuss your needs and how this will work in the group cooking situation. If your dietary requirements are especially strict you are advised to bring a sufficient supply of your required food types with you to ensure you are provided for.
Clothing & Equipment
Expedition members will be sent a list detailing all necessary individual clothing and personal equipment required.