Climb a stunning, remote 8000er

Manaslu

Mount Manaslu, is the world's eighth-highest mountain, reaching a lofty 8,163m. We climb Manaslu via the North-East Face along moderately angled snow slopes before a steep snow arête takes us to the summit for magnificent views across the Himalaya.

It is a stunning and remote peak that is an ideal expedition for those looking to climb an 8,000er, or in preparation for Everest.

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Difficulty Level High ?
Fitness Level High ?
Duration 42 days
Elevation 8,163M / 26,781FT
Large view

Route to Camp 2 - Dean Staples

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Resting at Camp 3 - Dean Staples

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Looking down the summit ridge - Dean Staples

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Shadow of Manaslu - Dean Staples

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Dawn high on Manaslu - Guy Cotter

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Manaslu from Base Camp - Guy Cotter

Large view

Climbing just below Camp 3 - Dean Staples

From Sep 03 to Oct 14, 2018
Departs from Kathmandu, Nepal
$23,250 USD $
  • Overview

    • Climb the world’s eighth highest mountain
    • Helicopter access to base of the mountain
    • Enjoyable expedition in an exceedingly scenic region


    If you are considering climbing an 8000 metre peak, Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options.

    We heli into a village at the foot of the mountain where we enjoy day hikes to acclimatise before moving up to the Base Camp to begin the climb.

    We ascend by the North East Face, utilising four camps along the way.

    The climbing route ascends moderate angled snow slopes on the lower reaches with a short steep slope above Camp One. The angle picks up towards Camp Four, where we follow fixed ropes through a series of short ice bulges to arrive on a flat col and camp site.

    Summit day is a pearler; ascend a series of moderate snow slopes and plateaus, finishing up a steep snow arête to an airy summit with rather grand views!

  • Why AC?

    Adventure Consultants is renowned for the quality of its service and strategy applied to high altitude expedition climbing. Our reputation is attributed to meticulous planning and experienced logistics coordination. We have a philosophy of investing in every expedition to offer our climbers the best possible chance of success.

    We employ strong and specialised Expedition Leaders and Sherpa staff who are recognised as some of the most pre-eminent mountaineers in the industry.

    Many operators make statements about their services that are intentionally designed to mislead or avoid addressing important issues. The reality on the mountain is that unless you have a strong and experienced leader with sufficient Sherpa staff in support, the chances of summiting are dramatically reduced. Expeditions that are operated by local staff, with no qualified and experienced western guides, are generally not able to offer you a legitimate level of safety or success. These expeditions have the highest ratio of accident and frostbite injury on trips which may seem cheap at the time when booking but the long term effects make the price difference irrelevant.

    The AC approach to making expeditions work for you is reflected in the quality and safety of the expeditions we run along with our consistently high success rate.

  • Payment Conditions

    Inclusions

    The price of your trip includes the following:

    • Nepal government royalty fees
    • All expedition organisational requirements
    • Reference notes to assist with planning your trip
    • All climbing and trekking permits
    • Airport transfers
    • Helicopter Kathmandu to Samagaon and return
    • Land transport in Nepal
    • All team equipment, including personal tent at Base Camp
    • All expedition staff: cooks, porters
    • Sherpa support for carry of group equipment
    • Breakfast, lunch and dinner ex Kathmandu
    • Oxygen – two and a half bottles
    • Medical kit
    • Base Camp e-mail and satellite phone facilities
    • Regular written and photo internet dispatches for families and friends to follow your progress
    • dZi Foundation support for their “revitalize a village” programme – likely to include support for a Nepalese child’s education for a year.


    Exclusions

    The price of your trip does not include:

    • Air travel to and from Nepal
    • Hotel accommodation and meals in Kathmandu
    • Entry visa for Nepal
    • Costs of early exit from the expedition
    • Personal clothing and equipment
    • Personal travel insurance / trip cancellation insurance / rescue insurance
    • Additional meals, snacks, drinks, laundry, internet, single supplement rooms and other expenses outside the inclusions as listed above
    • Additional services such as additional Sherpa support, Max Ox, private guide, personal Sherpa. etc
    • Gratuities
    • Airport Taxes, satellite phone calls and email costs
    • Additional costs that are out of the control of Adventure Consultants

    Account Information

    All payments should be made by bank transfer to the following bank and account:

    Bank of New Zealand
    Offshore Branch
    1 Willis Street
    Wellington
    New Zealand

    for the account of Adventure Consultants Limited

    Account # 1000-594771-0000
    Account Type: US Dollars
    Swift Address: BKNZNZ22

    Note: All bank transfer charges are for the remitters account.

    We can also accept your deposit by credit card (Visa, Mastercard, Amex), and your balance payment by credit card plus a 3% credit card fee.

    Deposit

    A non-refundable deposit of US$2000 is payable to secure a place on the expedition.

    Balance

    The balance is payable 90 days prior to your trip commencement date.

    Cancellation & Refund Policy

    Once you have paid your deposit your trip is confirmed, subject to payment of the balance of fees owing 90 days prior to your trip commencement date. An expedition member may then cancel his/her participation on the following basis:

    • Cancellations outside of 90 days will result in the loss of the trip deposit.
    • For cancellations made within 89-60 days of the trip commencement date we reserve the right to retain 50% of the balance payment.
    • For cancellations within 59 days of the departure date a cancellation fee of 100% of the full fee applies.

     

    Trip Cancellation Insurance

    Team members should take out private insurance if they wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons. This is called Trip Cancellation Insurance and can be obtained from your travel agent or your insurance agent.

  • Trip Notes

    ManasluThe Expedition Trip Notes provide detailed information and background for Adventure Consultants' Manaslu Expeditions.

    You can view the trip notes online by clicking the image or download a pdf by clicking the following link:

    Manaslu Expedition Trip Notes

    Team Membership

    We will be accepting experienced climbers to participate in the team who have prepared themselves through a progression of ascents of ever-higher peaks.

    The team will have a minimum size of 6 members and 1 guide and maximum size of 12 members and 2 guides.

    The Base Camp will be staffed by a Sherpa Sirdar/Cook. A team of between 4 and 8 Climbing Sherpas will carry loads and support the summit climb.

    Our Guides

    The expedition leader will be scheduled approximately six months out from the trip start. All of our trip leaders to the 8000m peaks have extensive experience at high altitude and a proven record of safety, success and compatibility. 

    Dean StaplesDean Staples
    Expedition Leader, 2017

    Based in Lake Hawea, New Zealand our NZ Chief Guide, Dean Staples, leads both international expeditions and New Zealand trips. A multi-talented IFMGA guide with over two decades of guiding experience, Dean is a super friendly guy, with great patience and leadership skills.

    Amongst a multitude of climbing achievements Dean currently shares the record for Everest summits by a kiwi, with a total of 9 summits and as lead guide on our 2013 Everest Expedition, he achieved a double summit of Everest and then Lhotse in just over 24 hours.

    Head Office Support Team

    Running successful journeys and expeditions is more about experience, knowledge and strategic management than any other factors. As an organisation, we place a substantial amount of time and resources into ensuring our trips are well planned and supported. You can be assured that the AC staff will provide you with friendly advice and knowledgeable support throughout the planning stages of your trip and we will be there to provide backup while the trip is running.

    Amelia Crofut-BrittinghamAmelia Crofut-Brittingham, Client Liaison

    Amelia has been with Adventure Consultants since October 2017 in the role of Client Liaison for European and Himalayan Operations. Having spent many years working in the ski industry, Amelia brings a wealth of experience to her role.
      

    AC Team 2016 Landscape

    Your Health

    Expedition members will be provided with pre-trip medical advice and a medical questionnaire and asked to visit their family physician to receive a full medical examination. This information will be sighted only by the expedition leader and our medical adviser and treated with full confidentiality.

    Level of Experience Required

    There is no definitive measure for assessing the required skill-level to climb Manaslu so we prefer to discuss this on an individual basis. However, there are some broad guidelines that can be applied from the outset.

    A successful team member will have been visiting the mountains for at least three seasons and made ascents of peaks up to 18-20,000 feet (5,500 - 6,000 metres). It is quite common for members to have previously climbed Mt McKinley in Alaska, Aconcagua in South America, or various Mexican volcanoes as training for Manaslu.

    He/she will be familiar with fixed rope and crevasse travel techniques and have a good overall standard of fitness.

    Age itself is no barrier. To date we have succeeded on Himalayan trips with members aged from 22 to 65 years of age.

    A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition. The guides and other expedition staff will provide the leadership, tactics and overall decision making required during the climb, but members will contribute to the day to day expedition requirements such as melting snow, cooking in your tents on the mountain, helping with pitching tents etc.

    What You Carry

    We have the luxury of a strong Sherpa team that will carry all the team equipment, food and ropes on the mountain. Whilst there are some instances where the Sherpas may take a couple of small items for you to the next camp, this is only occasional and you are expected to carry your personal gear. When you put all your gear into a pack it still amounts to between 18-25kg so the load is not insignificant and you must come prepared for the high level of physical output. This reinforces the need to take just the right amount of equipment with you on the mountain and to ensure you are ‘pack fit’ before you arrive on the expedition.

    Technical Training Specific to Manaslu

    We climb Manaslu via the South West Ridge, a technical route, and considered to be the standard route. The route is considered a relatively safe route by Himalayan standards. It is a varied and interesting route with loads of superb climbing on snow, rock and ice. On Manaslu, the hardest pitches of technical rock and ice climbing are not sustained but tend to come in short manageable sections, all with ropes fixed in place.

    One of the most energy absorbing activities, if not done properly, is ascending a steep fixed rope. Getting specific training in this area is important for not wasting energy at altitude (it’s hard enough at sea level). By practicing at a local cliff or climbing gym you should be able to get all your lengths of leash attachments right and fine tune your technique.

    Other skills specific to Manaslu include travelling along rocky ridges in your plastic mountaineering boots, camping in the snow, rapelling/abseiling and general mountain movement (difficult if you live in a city). See our Fitness Training Programs for details on how we can help you prepare for the challenge ahead!

    Food

    Our Base Camp equipment and ample, nutritious meals are always the envy of other groups on the mountain!

    AC imports western food for our Nepal based expeditions and we supplement this with fresh and dried Nepalese products. Our expeditions are renowned for the quality of the food and the expertise of the cooks. We specially train our Cooks at specialist cooking skills and you will be amazed at what great food they produce from their expedition kitchen. We bring a variety of foods and snack foods to cater to most tastes however we recommend you bring a small selection of your favourite snack food / treat for the trekking days or high on the mountain and some GU / Powergels for the big days.

    Clothing & Equipment

    Expedition members will be sent a list detailing all necessary clothing and equipment to be individually provided.

    Safety

    Like most mountains, Manalsu has its hazards. These include crevasses, icefall danger, falls where there is no fixed rope and avalanches. There are dangers associated with altitude that we will manage by a sensible acclimatisation program with the support of medications and specialised equipment for treatment of altitude related issues.

    Avalanche hazard on Manaslu is addressed by the avoidance of prone slopes and camp sites after heavy snowfalls. Adventure Consultants take a conservative approach to these hazards and wait for snow to settle or the completion of avalanche cycles. This generally leads to better climbing conditions anyway and patience in these situations usually provides rewards and increases safety margins significantly.

    We will fix ropes on the mountain to safeguard members on steep terrain and where fixed ropes will ensure positive route finding on descent. Other teams arrive thinking they do not need fixed ropes and end up using the ropes we have placed. The fixed ropes provide the lifeline they need and hadn't planned for in advance. Under-resourced expeditions are common on the 8000m peaks and people buy into them as a way to reduce cost. This is a false economy when they find they cannot summit due to lack of support, or even worse, do not have back-up or safety systems when it is most crucial.

  • Itinerary

    Day   
    1 Arrive Kathmandu
    2 Kathmandu preparations
    3 Fly to Samagoan
    4-7 Acclimatisation hikes
    8 Trek from Samagaon to Manaslu Base Camp
    9-11 Base Camp preparation and acclimatisation
    12-24 Establish high camps and acclimatise
    25-36 Summit climb and descend to Base Camp
    37 Descend to Samagaon
    38-40 Contingency days
    41 Fly to Kathmandu
    42 Depart Kathmandu

    The expedition commences from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Here you will meet your guide and the other team members for an expedition briefing where you will be informed of the expedition plans from this point. Your guide will conduct a gear check and you can finalise the packing of your climbing duffel that will go ahead for transport to Base Camp.

    We fly from Kathmandu by helicopter to Samagaon, a small village below Manaslu, which is at an altitude of 3500m/11483ft. Samagaon is inhabited by people of Tibetan origin who live much as they did in centuries gone by; subsisting on Yak farming and agriculture. A large monastery (or Gompa) is situated overlooking the village. It is an active monastery whose Lamas are ordained through succession meaning that when a Lama dies, the oldest son becomes the next Lama in the chain. We base ourselves at a lodge in the village utilising the trails on the hillsides and trekking routes around the mountain to develop our acclimatisation for four nights. Having taken the time to adjust to the new elevation we then move up to Base Camp at 4800m/15,748ft.

    Over three weeks we establish four camps on the mountain and aim to summit in mid May.

    The route up to Camp 1 involves climbing over grassy slopes, rock slabs and moraine, followed by a crevassed glacier with occasional small ice steps to Camp 1 at 5500m/18,040ft. During seasons with more snowfall there may be snow around Base Camp and below. Views of the surrounding peaks will add reference to the uphill climb and the team will enjoy seeing more of the upper part of the mountain, as high as Camp 4, from the trail to Camp 1.

    The route to Camp 2, at 6,250m/20,500ft, is considered the technical crux of the climb with fixed ropes for security on the steeper parts. The terrain features long 40 degree snow slopes with a few vertical ice steps where brief sections of front-point cramponing is required with the aid of fixed ropes.

    Above Camp 2 the slopes ease off with fixed ropes on intermittent steep sections but in general the route to Camp 3 (6,800m/22,300ft) is relatively straightforward. Acclimatised climbers can complete this leg in approximately 3-4 hours.

    From Camp 3 there is 550m/1800ft of strenuous climbing to Camp 4 at 7,450m/24,440ft. A well deserved rest and rehydration will greatly increase your enthusiasm for a summit bid early the following morning when you set out for the climb.

    Summit day will start well before dawn and the climb should take about 6-7 hrs. The climbing is not technical in the early part as we ascend through several basins with short headwalls connecting them. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge through to the true summit for an unforgettable vista. Our strong guide and Sherpa team will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group on what will be a memorable day with the objective to reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world!

    We descend to Base Camp the day after summiting for a well-earned celebration. A day is spent packing up Base Camp then we drop down to Samagaon to meet our flight back to Kathmandu.

  • Add Ons

    Experience tells us that a high degree of Sherpa support, coupled with maximum oxygen flow rates, greatly increases the rate of success for our team members. With this option you receive oxygen at a higher flow rate on climbing days allowing you to completely focus on summiting. The results speak for themselves.

    With the ‘Max Ox’ option providing higher flow rates for climbing, climbers have reported having better energy levels, a better appetite, more warmth, a higher degree of strength and greater enjoyment on summit day than those without. They also enjoy a higher rate of success!

    Many climbers opt for additional Sherpa support to make the ascent more enjoyable and summit success more likely. With this option our Sherpa team will carry personal gear on camp-carry days (days we are moving up or down the mountain to another camp) and on summit day. On standard acclimatisation days, when we are hiking to a new elevation and back down, you carry your own kit for the day.

    A personal Sherpa can also be arranged who would climb with you the entire time if that is your preference. Contact us to discuss this option.

    You may also like to talk to us about other options such as personal communication systems, or the provision of a personal tent on the mountain.

  • Travel & Rescue Insurance

    Adventure Consultants recommends the following travel insurance and rescue insurance options, although this is only just a start! Once you book on a trip with AC, your Client Liaison will help you by sending through advice on your options;

    • Travel insurance
    • Trip interruption
    • Trip cancellation
    • Medical Evacuation and Rescue Insurance

    RIPCORD RESCUE TRAVEL INSURANCE

    Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance Logo webRipCord is the leading medical evacuation program offering elite evacuation and rescue services. With their new partnership with TravelEx, they can also now provide the benefits of a traditional travel insurance product with their just released, RipCord Rescue Travel Insurance™. This is specifically designed for the adventure enthusiast with unique trip cancellation/interruption, medical expense, sporting equipment and other coverage benefits to protect your financial investment.

    RipCord is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, an elite team of special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliate physicians, paramedics, nurses, former intelligence officers and other medical/security experts comprising the most experienced team in the industry. They will rescue you from the field wherever your emergency occurs and evacuate you to your home country hospital of choice.

    RipCord rescues you from the field if you have an emergent medical condition that will result in significant permanent injury and/or death, but does not require hospitalisation.

    RipCord are proud to partner with Adventure Consultants to provide RipCord’s industry leading rescue, evacuation and travel insurance coverage to its clients.

    Adventure Consultants can also assist with purchasing polar cover for Antarctic expeditions and if interested in this, please contact RipCord directly for a specialised quote.

    GLOBAL RESCUE MEMBERSHIP SERVICES

    Global Rescue SnipAdventure Consultants also recommends the rescue evacuation and security membership/services provided by Global Rescue, which provides transport from the point of illness/injury back to your home countries hospital of your choice. TotalCare provides real-time access to medical information and coming soon, this includes urgent card and speciality consultations from some of the world’s health physicians at the Elite Medical Group and John Hopkins Medicine in Baltimore.

    Recently Global Rescue has released a new travel insurance product, the Signature Travel Insurance option. This has no height limitation and gives comprehensive cover for trip cancellation/interruption, medical and dental expenses, delays, lost luggage as well as optional add-ons to ‘cancel or interrupt for any reason. This is currently only available to US Residents.

    Click here to find out more about this insurance cover which covers climbing and is thus suitable for many of our expeditions.

  • FAQ

    • Expedition Documentation

      Please note you will be emailed a set of Team Reference Notes for your chosen expedition, upon registration. This extensive booklet includes detailed information to assist in the planning of your trip; from travel and medical advice to equipment lists and photography tips. The following is to serve as a helpful guideline but please feel free to call or e-mail if you have any further questions. Our team is here to help!

    • Choosing a Provider

      How long have Adventure Consultants been in operation?
      Adventure Consultants started in 1990 and we have been guiding internationally ever since.

      A few outfitters ‘claim’ to have the same level of experience and prestige with that of Adventure Consultants. In this league, what makes you the first choice for your climbers?
      We are renowned for the quality of our service and strategy applied to our expeditions. Our reputation is attributed to our meticulous planning and logistics coordination done by our head office. Nowhere else will you find a team of people more dedicated to your success! From when you contact the AC office, to the time you step on the mountain, our customer service is second to none. The AC team of guides and Sherpas will ensure that this is run to our high standards and hence, this will be an enjoyable expedition with a great group of people.

    • Food, Accommodation & Facilities

      What sort of hotels do we stay at in the city?
      We stay at the Radisson Hotel in Kathmandu, which features a rooftop swimming pool and on-site dining. Ideally located in Lazmipat, the hotel is adjacent to the Narayanhiti Palace Museum and is within walking distance of popular attractions including Durbar Marg and Thamel.

      Will I be sharing a tent or room with other climbers? Is there a single room option on this trip?
      You will have your own tent in Base Camp, but on the mountain, you will be sharing a tent with others. We generally book you into a single room in the hotel in Kathmandu whilst it is twin-share in Lhasa and/or the lodges on the trek into Base Camp. A single supplement is available. Please contact our office for further details.

      What showers and laundry facilities will be available on the expedition?
      We do offer shower facilities on all our 8,000m expeditions and these will be made available as often as possible, either at the lodges or at your Base Camp. We advise people to bring wet-wipes for impromptu washes inbetween available showers. It is also possible to hand wash clothes at Base Camp between climbing cycles.

      Would you let us know what food will be available?
      If you have any special treat that you like, we encourage you to bring some along. You’ll get breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as snacks, and ample hot and cold drinks. Please indicate any specific dietary requirements that you may have on your application form and we are happy to accommodate for those with specific diets. All of our expeditions provide excellent local and western food! On the mountain, we usually have a wide variety of MRE (Meal, Ready-to-Eat) meals, these are significantly tastier than freeze dried, as they are real food vacuum-sealed and ready to heat and eat.

      We work really hard to make sure our food is second to none and our food is rated so highly that our guides are frequently seen chasing guides and clients from other expeditions out of our mess tents!

    • Travel

      Do I need to arrive the day before the trip starts? And when should I book my flight to leave?
      No, our trip programmes all have an arrival day and a departure day built into them. You are welcome, and encouraged, to arrive a bit earlier to explore your arrival and departure city if you have the time. Before your expedition you will receive a “final details” letter. This will let you know the time and place to meet your guides. An AC representative will meet you at the airport; the first of many team briefings will take place on the evening of Day One. Please do not book to depart before the scheduled final trip itinerary day.

      What is the best way to get to Nepal? From US? UK? Australia/NZ?
      Most airlines fly direct to Bangkok from North America, Europe and Australia/NZ. From there, Thai Airways fly direct to Kathmandu once a day. Silk Air (Singapore Airlines) has flights three times a week and there are flights via Doha, Delhi and Hong Kong to Kathmandu.

      My travel agent says I can just get an ‘e’ ticket (electronic ticket) and will not need to be actually issued a physical ticket.
      'E' tickets are the standard practice these days and are now acceptable in most locations. Do ensure that you print your itinerary and have your booking number with you, as this allows our local agents to assist with changing your return flight plans if need be, while you are in the mountains.

      When should I book my ticket?
      Generally, we ask you to wait until 90 days prior to your trip start date to ensure that your trip has met the minimum numbers and will operate. If you see a good deal and want to book your flights, then ensure that you can make changes to your tickets or you run the risk of losing your ticket if we do have to cancel the trip.

      Can I get a cheap ticket online?
      The problem with these tickets is that you usually end up having to pay quite a lot more if you have to make any changes to your ticket. Some of the places we go to aren't straightforward and we highly recommend using a travel agent for such travel, as there are many intricacies that they can help you with. In the long run, they save you money! We use professional travel agents for all our staff and guides' travel bookings to our expedition and trek destinations.

      Where do we meet? Will I be picked up?
      If your expedition is in Nepal, please plan to fly into Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM). An Adventure Consultants guide or representative will be there to pick you up off your flight on the scheduled arrival date. If you are arriving before the scheduled trip start date, we can often make arrangements for a pickup although taking a taxi is generally the easiest form of transport before your trip starts.

      Can I arrive early or depart late?
      Of course. On a trip as long as this, we request that you arrive in Kathmandu by the assigned date, to assure your baggage makes it on time, and you have time to recover from jet lag before going to altitude. It is impossible on this expedition to catch the group if you are arriving late and still waiting for lost baggage! We can arrange extra nights in the hotel. Many people depart from our Nepal expeditions later, to enjoy the sights and sounds of Kathmandu, but do keep in mind that this is a long expedition and we find that people often want to head home as quickly as possible after the climb finishes.

      Do I need to get a visa? 
      Yes and for Nepal expeditions, these can either be obtained on arrival into Kathmandu or can be issued online prior through the Nepal visa online system. Be sure to have the suggested USD amount in cash for your visa application and have a passport photo for your arrival in Kathmandu. Currently, a 40-day visa costs $40 and 90-day visa costs US$100.

      For expeditions to Tibet, visas are processed in Kathmandu following your arrival. Do make sure that your passport has at least six months validity and more details on this process are included in your comprehensive set of reference notes, which will be emailed out to you upon sign up.

    • Clothing & Equipment

      Do you have a recommended list of clothing we should bring?
      Once we have received your application we will post out a set of Team Reference Notes which includes an assortment of information including detailed equipment lists.  Any questions you have after reading through this will be directed to our Equipment Coordinator.  They can assist you in preparing for the trip as well as recommend and source a range of clothing and equipment suitable for the climb via our gear retail service.

      Do I really need all the equipment on the equipment list?
      Yes, these lists have been carefully prepared so please bring everything on the list! AC has a dedicated equipment coordinator that will assist with your equipment enquiries/purchases during the lead up to the expedition start date.

      Can I bring food and other gear not on the list?
      Absolutely! Most members of our expeditions end up bringing “the kitchen sink!" We encourage you to bring some of your favourite goodies and tech toys, as Base Camp will become our home for four weeks. The more comfortable you are, the more energy you have for the climb, so every little thing helps!

      How heavy will my pack be?
      We will have the luxury of a strong Sherpa team that will carry team equipment, food and oxygen on the mountain. Whilst there are some instances where the Sherpa may take a couple of small items for you to the next camp, this is only occasional and you are expected to carry your personal gear. This is achieved by taking small amounts of your gear to the higher camps each time you go, however there are times when you must carry all your personal gear at one time making for a fairly heavy load. When you put all your gear into a pack it still amounts to between 18-25kg so the load is not insignificant and you must come prepared for the high level of physical output. This reinforces the need to take just the right amount of equipment with you on the mountain and to ensure you are ‘pack fit’ before you arrive on the expedition.

      Given the large amount of equipment that I need to bring, can I send freight ahead?
      Sending your equipment ahead by freight is not as easy as it sounds. The costs can be considerable with expensive clearance and duty fees, and time delays getting your gear out of customs. We advise against it, but if considering it, please contact us to discuss the process and associated costs.

      How warm do we need our sleeping bags to be? Will there be extra blankets available if required?
      This will be clearly stated in your recommended gear list. It will depend on where you are going, but in general, you will need a sleeping bag warm enough for you in conditions that can be as cold as freezing. Blankets are generally not available so pay careful attention to what bag we recommend. We suggest buying a sleeping bag big enough to allow you to wear some clothes in if it is especially cold. Sleeping in a warm hat can greatly improve a bag's warmth.

    • Acclimatisation & Oxygen

      What altitude medication will be available on the expedition? Do we need to take tablets before/ during the trek/expedition?
      All our guides carry extensive medical kits including Diamox, Dexamethasone, Nifedipine and Sildenafil for altitude illness, and some of our bigger expeditions even have their own doctor. You need to bring any medications you regularly use (don’t forget to tell us about them) plus extra. Also, bring a small first aid kit including a blister kit and mild headache medication for the normal altitude headaches.

      What sort of O2 masks do you use?
      We use Summit and Topout masks plus regulators for all our Sherpas, Guides and climbers.

      What is the oxygen bottle size?
      We use 4 litre Poisk bottles, which are the lightest available at 3.5kg each.

      What is Max Ox? How does it work?
      The Max Ox option is simple and in this era of better O2 systems, we wanted to offer our team members every possible advantage to summit. The Max Ox O2 option allows you to climb on a higher flow rate, thus increasing your chance of success.

    • Guides, Sherpas & Team Members

      Who goes on your trips?
      Our climbers come from a wide variety of backgrounds, interests, countries and skill levels. From those seeking skill development to those seeking assistance with the world's highest mountains or purely adventure, we provide courses, expeditions, treks and guided ascents for all levels of outdoor enthusiasts.

      Can I contact other climbers or guides for this expedition?
      Yes, we encourage that. Perhaps there is someone in your area that can become a training partner, perhaps they can help you source some hard to find gear. The bottom line is that it’s a good idea to have some contact with folks that you will share this experience with. We respect the privacy of each team member and check with each person before releasing any contact details.

      How many guides/Sherpas will be assigned to our group?
      A ratio of climbers to western guides is stated on each trip’s web page in the downloadable ‘trip notes’. Sherpa guides are assigned depending on the size of the group and type of expedition.

      Should I tip my guide staff?
      This is a difficult thing to gauge. We have seen everything from 20USD to 10,000USD for an 8,000m expedition tip. Tipping is not required, but a small way to show your guides thanks for their help. The level of the tip should reflect the level of personal involvement with your guide. You will have a high degree of contact with some of the Sherpa staff, while others will be working away in the background providing necessary services to keep the expedition running and therefore we feel it is appropriate to include them in the tipping pool.

      Can my friends and family join me on the trek into Base Camp?
      Yes, this is possible on some of our expeditions so if interested in exploring this option; please do enquire directly with the Adventure Consultants office.

      I would like to arrange a private trip, is this possible?
      We are happy to arrange a private group trip and we have run many successful private trips and expeditions including summits of 8,000m peaks such as Gasherbrum 2 and Kanchenjunga, all of the Seven Summits and remote destinations such as Antarctica. Some clients enjoy the added privacy and schedule flexibility that a private expedition allows, so you can hike and climb at your own pace and enjoy the mountains on your own terms. There is no specific group size, but obviously larger groups are more cost effective. Please contact the office for more information.

    • Health & Fitness

      What kind of physical condition should I be in for a climb at high altitude?
      You should be in the best shape of your life! We invite you to check out our Fitness Training Page page and recommend checking with your physician before embarking on strenuous physical activity. For our high altitude climbing, you should be comfortable walking for 5-9 hours with a weighted pack, although summit days on some peaks can be over 20 hours long! Pack weight can be 18-25kg on carry days on high altitude expeditions, but only 5-7kg on summit day and on the trek in. Enquire about Sherpa Support to help keep your pack weight realistic for you. Working out every day, then day long hikes with a weighted pack on the weekends is generally a good realistic training programme. Day by day the challenges are different, but the more prepared you are, both mentally and physically, the smoother your trip will go. 

      How long is a typical day on the mountain?
      It depends on the day and your level of acclimatisation. At the beginning of the trip, everything seems slower and longer, but as you get more adjusted to the mountain, the days go quicker. Average days can be 5-10 hours long. Summit day can be up to 20 hours long.

      How do you train for a trip like this?
      Our standard response to this question is that you become a climber first, and everything else during this portion of your life comes second. This is the level of dedication to your training, both mental and physical, that you need to have. We have specific ideas around training and great book suggestions to help you along. Please look over our training page for details. If you require more information please contact our office and we will be happy to put you in touch with one of our senior guides for a consultation and we can also link you with our training coach to design a training programme for you.

    • Communication & Electronic Devices

      Will there be any power source for charging batteries and electronic equipment throughout the expedition? What voltage requirements?
      We take solar panels and battery power packs on our expeditions. Our first priority is to charge our computers, satellite phones and expedition electrical equipment. There is usually enough power to then charge your personal electrical equipment. If your equipment has a cigarette lighter type car charger, bring that and you can plug it in to charge. We do NOT recommend bringing rechargeable digital cameras, they tend to run out when power is not available. Use cameras with replaceable batteries and we recommend lithium batteries. We can cater for special power requirements at an extra cost - please enquire with our office. Many of the lodges also have power available with typical Asian plugs (two nail like horizontal prongs) and they have battery recharging systems and pricing on offer.

      Will there be any access to a satellite phone? If yes then what would be the charges for usage?
      Yes, most of our expedition guides take satellite phones and you are welcome to use these at US$3 to $4 per minute depending on the region.

      I want to contact my friend or relative, who is on one of your trips, how can I reach them?
      Most of our expeditions send daily internet dispatches, and we receive updates from our guides while they are in the field. The best place to reach a loved one is through our office.

    • Weather Forecasts

      What weather report service do you use?
      We receive comprehensive weather forecasts from our Swiss meteorologists which enable us to plan our ascent around favourable weather. Additional meteorological interpretation provided by veteran high altitude guides through our head office in New Zealand helps manage the decision-making process.

    • Insurance

      What insurance do we need to get?
      On all of our international expeditions, there is a requirement for each expedition member to have insurance to cover any personal or medical mishaps that may occur before or during the expedition. This should cover you for any costs incurred in the event of any illness, medical emergency or evacuation that occurs while on the expedition as well as trip cancellation, baggage loss, damage or theft, or any other such mishap that may occur. In addition to evacuation & medical insurance, we recommend to all our expedition members to buy trip cancellation insurance on sign up for your expedition.  It is also highly recommend purchasing a Comprehensive Travel Insurance policy to provide cover for trip interruption, baggage loss, damage or theft, delayed flights or other such incidents that may occur during your trip. Contact us for expedition insurance advice. 

      Do I need evacuation insurance?
      Yes, it is very important. Many of our expeditions are in remote places with no roads and third world medical services. In the unlikely event that you get sick, you want to get to good medical care ASAP.

      Who do you recommend for insurance?
      Coverage varies based on your nationality and the trip that you are taking with us. When you have booked on for a trip with us, we will send you comprehensive information on various insurance options which will serve as a good starting point for obtaining the best coverage available for yourself.

      What is Trip Cancellation Insurance?
      Trip cancellation insurance is an option that may allow you to cancel your trip without losing the total cost of the trip. Adventure Consultants highly recommends cancellation insurance for all of our trips, including our courses. If circumstances cause us to cancel a trip (minimum numbers are not reached or travel to a country becomes too dangerous) then we refund your fees paid but trip cancellation insurance covers your airfare and any other costs you may have incurred.

    • Fees & Payments

      Can I pay by credit card?
      We can accept the expedition deposit/balance payment by credit card and this incurs a 3% card fee. Please contact our office or visit our secure credit card page to send us your credit card details.

      What is included in the cost of my trip? Does it include airfare?
      Each specific trip page on the website has a section as well as a downloadable pdf document with exactly what is and what is not included on the trip. International airfares are not included in the trip price. We can, however, recommend excellent travel agents whom we have worked with in your country should you require help with arranging your international airfare.

      How much should I budget for this expedition? How much cash should I plan to bring?
      In addition to staff gratuities, you will also need to take funds for the likes of laundry, bottled water, alcohol, showers and any other sundry purchases that you may make. Approximately US$300-500 will suffice for the trek in and out.

      Why are you sometimes more expensive than other operators?
      Many of our trips are very similar in price to our competitors. Some companies even wait for us to set our prices and use ours as a guideline! Some of our main selling points, which sometimes do cost more are; internationally qualified western guides, proven dependable local operators, small group sizes and safe client to guide ratios, quality equipment and high summit success rates, among other things. You do get what you pay for which is why we stand out from the rest. Many clients come to us after failing on one of our competitors ‘cheaper’ trips.

      How do I sign up for a trip?
      The best way to reserve your space on a trip is to call our offices or complete our online booking form. Return this with the trip deposit either through a telegraphic transfer (information is in our trip notes downloaded from the specific trip page) or by using our secure credit card page. Phone our New Zealand head office on +64 3 443 8711 (Monday - Friday, 9:00am - 5:30pm PST + 19 hours) or Freephone 1-866-757-8722 from North America.

    • Photography

      I love the photographs in your brochure and on your website, are they for sale?
      Yes, our images are available for licensing or purchase.

      What is the best equipment for photography in Alpine environments?
      There is an extensive section in our reference notes, which are sent out on receipt of your trip registration form and deposit, explaining about photography in the mountains.

      Remember photos are wonderful records of your expedition but keep camera gear simple and light to best enjoy the trip you are on. Disposable and digital cameras are the lightest weight, but all cameras have maintenance issues that need to be carefully considered before bringing them to high elevations.

    • Safety

      What about the Maoists in Nepal?
      The Maoist problem which partly crippled the economy of Nepal for the past decade garnered major international interest. The Maoists have now formed part of the Nepalese government and there is a comprehensive peace agreement in place so we hope the troubles of the past are put behind the Nepalese people. Our sources in Nepal keep us up to date with the political situation and if there are significant changes we will be sure to advise you.

    • Employment

      I want to become a mountain guide, where do I start?
      Those with limited experience generally start by taking an alpine climbing course and then go out and climb for a few years. You generally should have at least 5 years of climbing and/or teaching/guiding experience. You need avalanche and medical training and then you can apply to do a NZ Mountain Guides Course or the equivalent in your country, aligned with the IFMGA. Check the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association web pages for a complete description.

  • Dispatches

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I often say to friends, that if you have a challenging or remote destination in mind, AC will take you there. AC opens doors to experiences and places that would otherwise be closed.
Ascents Week, 2014

Graham Ehm
Australia
Kai Zinn

I thought it was a great trip and from my observations, our trip was better organized than some of the other groups we met on the mountain.
Cho Oyu, 2016

Kai Zinn
USA