Dean Staples

Dean Staples

Chief Guide New Zealand, IFMGA Mountain Ski Guide

Based in Lake Hawea, New Zealand (which is right next to Lake Wanaka), our New Zealand Chief Guide, Dean Staples, leads both international expeditions and New Zealand trips. A multi-talented IFMGA guide with over two decades of guiding experience, Dean is a super friendly guy, with great patience and leadership skills.

  • Bio

    Dean StaplesDean is one of our most experienced guides, with a considerable number of high altitude achievements under his belt. He currently shares the record for Everest summits by a kiwi, with a total of 9 summits and as lead guide on our 2013 Everest Expedition, he achieved a double summit of Everest and then Lhotse in just over 24 hours. In addition to guiding international expeditions, Dean plays an important role in our New Zealand based operation, as Chief Guide he oversees our New Zealand guiding team and mentors many of our newly qualified guides as they embark on their guiding careers.

    In his spare time Dean can be found riding his motorbike, trying to master his kite surfing, or simply relaxing at home by the lake.

    IFMGA logo

  • Notable Achievements

    Everest/Lhotse Double

    • Summitted both in just over 24 hours, 2013


    Everest (8,850m)

    • Has summited 9 times... sharing the record for the most successful climbs of Everest by a New Zealander with two others (pictured below on his 9th summit)
    • First New Zealander to summit from both the North and South sides
    • Summited twice in one season, 2007


    Seven Summits

    • Has climbed six of the seven, with only Denali left to go


    Big Wall Climbing

    • Yosemite and Zion, USA

    21 May Dean Staples on his 9th summit

  • International Expeditions

    Elbrus 2 summit day Aug 6 2013

    Seven Summits


    Everest (8,850m)

    • Summits 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 (2x), 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013
    • Lead Guide 2013, 2014
    • Guide 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012


    Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m)

    • Lead Guide 2008


    Mt Elbrus (5,642m)

    • Lead Guide 2013 (pictured on the summit)

    Dean Staples Summit Kili
    Vinson Massif (4,892m)

    • Lead Guide 2006, 2009, 2011, 2015


    Aconcagua (6,962m)

    • Lead Guide 2012


    Kilimanjaro (5,895m)

    • Lead Guide 2011 (pictured)


    8,000m Peaks

    Dean Staples and Lydia Bradey Dhaulagiri Summit 2017

    • Lhotse (8,516m) - Lead Guide 2013
    • Cho Oyu (8,201m) - 3 Summits
    • Shishapangma (8,013m) - 1 Summit
    • Dhaulagiri (8,167m) - Guide, 2017 (pictured)
    • Manaslu (8,163m) - Lead Guide, 2017 (pictured, on Summit day)

    Himalayan Climbs

    • Ama Dablam (6,828m) - Lead Guide 2001, 2010, 2014, 2015
    • Mt Khuiten, Mongolia (4,375m) - Guide 2010
    • Mera Peak (6,476m) - Lead Guide 2016


    Other

    • Alpamayo (5,917m) - Lead Guide 2008
    • Antarctic Peninsula, Yacht Trip - Lead Guide 2010
    • Gulmarg Ski Touring - Lead Guide 2013
    • South Pole Last Degree - Lead Guide 2015
  • Qualifications

    • IFMGA/NZMGA Mountain & Ski Guide
  • Film And Safety Work

    THE WILDEST DREAM:CONQUEST OF EVEREST

    • Shot Everest Summit Footage, 2007, 2009


    BEYOND THE LIMIT, Discovery Channel, TV Mini-Series

    • Shot Everest Summit Footage, 2007, 2009


    EVEREST THE PROMISE, Australian Everest Documentary

    • Filmed all the mountain footage, 2010
  • Special Projects / Other

    • New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) - Assessor
    • Harris Mountain Heli-Ski, NZ - Former Chief Guide (11 yrs)
    • Himachal Heli Skiing, India - Lead Heliski Guide (3 yrs)
    • TLH Heli Skiing, Canada - Lead Heliski Guide (3 yrs)
  • Dean's Testimonials

    "Dean was brilliant…I cannot rate Dean highly enough. His confidence, professionalism, skill, organisation meant that I had total trust in him and the decisions he made – made for a great learning environment."
    Jo Stilwell, NZ PIC, 2018

    "Dean was the perfect guide for us – his professionalism, patience, organisation and humour were all outstanding."
    David Norton, NZ PIC, 2018

    "Dean was excellent. Found the balance between detailed explanation with relevant information and respecting where the group was at. Skilled climber, and skilled leader. A perfect combination."
    Dale West, Australia, Mera Peak, 2016

    "I wanted to let you know the fantastic experience I had whilst on the Ice Climbing Course at Wye Creek, Queenstown N.Z. A very challenging course for me being new to ice climbing, but I would have been disappointed had the course been any easier. Professionally run operation by A.C. down to finer details of meals and pre course arrangements by administration staff. A special thanks to Dean Staples course guide, incredible talent and skills. "
    Warren Symons, New Zealand, Ice climbing Course, 2015

     

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