Dean Staples

Dean Staples

Chief Guide New Zealand, IFMGA Guide

Based in Lake Hawea, New Zealand (which is right next to Lake Wanaka), our NZ Chief Guide, Dean Staples, leads both international expeditions and New Zealand trips. A multi-talented IFMGA guide with over two decades of guiding experience, Dean is a super friendly guy, with great patience and leadership skills.

  • Bio

    Dean StaplesBased in Lake Hawea, New Zealand (which is right next to Lake Wanaka), our NZ Chief Guide, Dean Staples, leads both international expeditions and New Zealand trips. A multi-talented IFMGA guide with over two decades of guiding experience, Dean is a super friendly guy, with great patience and leadership skills. 

    Dean currently shares the record for Everest summits by a kiwi, with a total of 9 summits and as lead guide on our 2013 Everest Expedition, he achieved a double summit of Everest and then Lhotse in just over 24 hours. In his spare time Dean can be found riding his motorbike, trying to master his kite surfing, or simply relaxing at home by the lake.

    IFMGA logo

  • Notable Achievements

    Everest/Lhotse Double

    • Summitted both in just over 24 hours, 2013


    Everest (8,850m)

    • Has summited 9 times... sharing the record for the most successful climbs of Everest by a New Zealander with two others
    • First New Zealander to summit from both the North and South sides
    • Summited twice in one season, 2007


    Seven Summits

    • Has climbed six of the seven, with only Denali left to go


    Big Wall Climbing

    • Yosemite and Zion, USA
  • International Expeditions

    Seven Summits


    Everest 8,850m

    • Summits, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 (2x), 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013
    • Lead Guide, 2013, 2014
    • Guide, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012


    Carstensz Pyramid 4,884m

    • Lead Guide, 2008


    Mt Elbrus 5,642m

    • Lead Guide, 2013


    Vinson Massif 4,892m

    • Lead Guide, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2015


    Aconcagua 6,962m

    • Lead Guide, 2012


    Kilimanjaro 5,895m

    • Lead Guide, 2011



    8,000m Peaks


    Everest 8,850m

    • Summits, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 (2x), 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013
    • Lead Guide, 2013, 2014
    • Guide, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012


    Lhotse 8,516m

    • Lead Guide, 2013


    Cho Oyu 8,201m

    • 3 Summits


    Shishapangma 8,013m

    • 1 Summit


    Dhaulagiri 8,167m

    • Guide, 2017



    Himalayan Climbs


    Ama Dablam 6,828m

    • Lead Guide, 2001, 2010, 2014, 2015


    Mt Khuiten, Mongolia 4,375m

    • Guide, 2010


    Mera Peak 6,476m

    • Lead Guide, 2016



    Other


    Alpamayo (5,917m)

    • Lead Guide, 2008


    Antarctic Peninsula, Yacht Trip

    • Lead Guide, 2010


    South Pole Last Degree

    • Lead Guide, 2015
  • Qualifications

    • IFMGA/NZMGA Mountain & Ski Guide
  • Film And Safety Work

    THE WILDEST DREAM:CONQUEST OF EVEREST

    • Shot Everest Summit Footage, 2007, 2009


    BEYOND THE LIMIT, Discovery Channel, TV Mini-Series

    • Shot Everest Summit Footage, 2007, 2009


    EVEREST THE PROMISE, Australian Everest Documentary

    • Filmed all the mountain footage, 2010
  • Special Projects / Other

    • New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) - Assessor
    • Harris Mountain Heli-Ski, NZ - Former Chief Guide (11 yrs)
    • Himachal Heli Skiing, India - Lead Heliski Guide (3 yrs)
    • TLH Heli Skiing, Canada - Lead Heliski Guide (3 yrs)
  • Dean's Testimonials

    "Dean worked really hard to ensure my safety was top priority and was on hand to answer any questions I had, at any time. He was quick on his feet both technically, and in his thinking, when conditions changed. I felt 100% safe at all times and have a lot of respect for him as a mountaineer. I will take this first Alpine experience with me forever!! Thanks to Dean and AC for making this possible! Well worth EVERY PENNY!"

    "Dean was excellent. Found the balance between detailed explanation with relevant information and respecting where the group was at. Skilled climber, and skilled leader. A perfect combination." Dale West (Aus), Mera Peak, 2016

    "I wanted to let you know the fantastic experience I had whilst on the Ice Climbing Course 20th- 24th July 2015 Wye Creek, Queenstown N.Z. A very challenging course for me being new to ice climbing, but I would have been disappointed had the course been any easier. Professionally run operation by A.C. down to finer details of meals and pre course arrangements by administration staff. A special thanks to Dean Staples course guide, incredible talent and skills. " Warren Symons (NZ)

     

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