PURE
PAMIR
PERFECTION

We arrive in the leafy city of Osh, Kyrgyzstan, and transfer to our hotel before gear checks and a team welcome dinner.

We drive out of Osh along the Pamir Highway, with the terrain growing ever grander as we go. After crossing the Taldyk Mountain Pass 3,600m/11,800ft, we will see the stunning Alay Valley with the snow-capped Zaalay Range of the Pamirs towering above. After 5–6 hours we arrive at Base Camp 3,600m/11,800ft on Edelweiss Glade and settle into our comfortable yurts.

We rise in the morning to stunning views of snow-clad XIX Party Conference Peak, pointed Petrovskogo Peak and, of course, the inimitable Peak Lenin. Despite being a rest day, we will take an acclimatisation hike towards Puteshestvennikov “Traveller’s” Pass at 4,200m/13,800ft. The panoramic view that opens up from the “Marmots’ Glade” just below the pass is incredible.

Today we undertake an acclimatisation ascent of 4,910m/16,109ft Petrovskogo Peak which we have been eyeing up from our camp. This is an easy and enjoyable climb achieved in a long day from Base Camp and offering rewarding views of Peak Lenin and other surrounding peaks.

We head back out on the well-trodden path to Puteshestvennikov Pass 4,200m/13,800ft. This time we continue on alongside a moraine and up towards the Lenin Glacier. It will take 3–4½ hours to reach Camp 1 4,400m/14,440ft, a comfortable yurt camp established on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier, where we settle in for a delicious meal.

It’s time to push our acclimatisation a little further as we stage ourselves at Camp 1 for an ascent of 4,700m/15,420ft Domashniy Peak. We return back to camp tonight to consolidate these gains.

Today we enjoy a welcome rest to recuperate after our efforts and soak up the magnificent surrounds we find ourselves in.

On we go now to Camp 2! We at first continue uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face before crossing a steep slope often covered in deep snow. This we traverse, aiming at the plateau known as “Skovoroda” (“Frying Pan”), which we cross to reach Camp 2 in 6–7 hours.

From Camp 2 we ascend a 25 to 30-degree slope before traversing towards the top of Razdelnaya Peak 6,200m/20,340ft. From the top, we descend to Peremychka (Saddle) and touch Camp 3. The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours before we descend again to Camp 2 for the night.

We repeat our route from yesterday, this time overnighting at Camp 3, which is usually positioned close to Peremychka.

Today we descend again to Camp 1, which takes less time and effort in this direction! We reach Camp 1 in 4–5 hours and here we have a couple of days to rest up before our summit push.

Days 12 and 13 are well-earned rest days at Camp 1; time to relax and prepare ourselves for the expedition ahead.

Refreshed and revitalised, we head back up the now-familiar trail to Camp 2. This time we are more acclimatised so the same route feels much easier.

We continue our ascent, pushing above the clouds to Camp 3. Tonight we try to calm excited nerves and rest well ahead of our big day tomorrow.

We make an early start between 5–6am, the summit is waiting for us! We head out onto a steep 300m/1,000ft stretch that becomes narrow ice ridge known as Nosh (knife). We carry on towards a snow plateau and finally continue on up to the summit, with the whole of the Pamirs at our feet! Congratulations exchanged and photos taken, we set off back downhill to Camp 3.

Spare summit day in the event of bad weather during the climb.

We make a speedy descent back to Camp 1 as we dream about good food in a warm yurt—bliss!

Arriving back at Base Camp, we celebrate by taking a well-earned vapour bath, relaxing on a traditional kurpacha (mattress) and enjoying a traditional Kyrgyz dinner, the essence of Kyrgyz hospitality.

We drive from Base Camp to Osh, check into our hotel and enjoy walking around the town at night for a spot of celebration or quiet reflection.

The trip ends, we depart Osh and head back to our respective corners of the globe.