The fourth highest mountain in the world, Lhotse is an exhilarating climb that follows the Everest climbing route up the Lhotse Face before the route steepens to follow an icy gully to the summit.
The expedition benefits from the infrastructure we have for our Everest expedition and is therefore well resourced and supported. Climb Lhotse as a standalone expedition, or add-on to Everest or as part of the 'Triple Crown': Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse in one expedition.
The Adventure Consultants’ Lhotse Expedition takes advantage of our famous Everest Base Camp as a jumping off point to ascend the Khumbu Icefall and enter the Western Cwm. We follow this up to Camp Two, surrounded by the towering flanks of Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest’s South West Face.
The route steepens as we climb the icy Lhotse Face to Camp Three then on through the Yellow Band to Camp Four. 600m/2,000ft of climbing up an icy gully follows, sometimes with rocky sections that keep you on your toes, making this a challenging ascent.
You have the option of joining the expedition specifically to climb Lhotse, or as a combo climb, making the ascent directly after your Everest summit from South Col.
Choosing a Provider
It is very important to us that the climbers who join our team have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition we run. We don’t want to merely ‘fill our expedition’ but instead we want a team membership of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit in good style with the highest level of support and safety standards as can be provided by a guiding service on Lhotse accompanied by the best standards of food and equipment that is attainable.
If you are serious about being successful on an ascent of the world’s fourth highest mountain - and you want an environment that gives you the best chance of attaining that goal in a relaxed team atmosphere or private expedition- then Adventure Consultants is the perfect choice.
Small Teams
We are constantly developing and evolving our operational systems to ensure you participate in the best expedition available. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there is only one summit day! Large teams offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days.
Highly Qualified Western Guides
Our guides are seasoned professionals who are trained and assessed through the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition. The guide’s contribution is predominantly around making decisions to keep you safe and healthy and to avoid mishap. This is based on years of firsthand experience on the mountain and is in contrast to startup operators looking to learn the ropes at your expense or locally-led groups which are wanting of preventative strategies and back-up contingency in case of mishap.
Advanced Communication and Weather Forecasting
For two decades we have been at the forefront of providing the most current communications systems for our expeditions. These deliver comprehensive weather forecasts which enable us to plan our ascent around favourable weather. Additional meteorological interpretation provided by veteran Everest guides through our head office in New Zealand helps manage the decision making process.
Our WiFi data connection allows you to keep in touch with sponsors, business, friends and family via email, social media accounts or blog throughout the expedition from the comfort of your tent or our Base Camp lounge.
Well Appointed Base Camp Facilities
The comfortable Base Camp environment and the quality of food provided by AC is legendary.
Our cooks are regarded as the best in the business, providing wholesome and appetising meals with an agreeable array of menus to suit all your food requirements. The meals you are served on the mountain are also of the highest standard and designed to sustain you for the rigours of the ascent. For those with specific needs - we can cater to special dietary requirements.
Dedicated Base Camp Doctor
In line with our objectives to ensure you receive the best possible level of care while you are on the expedition, we provide a dedicated Base Camp doctor who is there specifically to ensure the wellbeing of the team members. We have had it confirmed time and again that this consistently makes a crucial contribution to the success rate and well-being of our team members.
Inclusions
The price of your trip includes the following:
Exclusions
The price of your trip does not include:
Account Information
All payments should be made by bank transfer to the following bank and account:
Bank of New Zealand
Offshore Branch
42 Willis Street
Spark Central
Wellington
New Zealand
for the account of Adventure Consultants Limited
Account # 1000-594771-0000
Account Type: US Dollars
Swift Address: BKNZNZ22
Note: All bank transfer charges are for the remitter's account.
We can also accept your deposit and balance payment by credit card (Visa, Mastercard, Amex) plus a 3% credit card fee.
Deposit
A non-refundable deposit of US$5,000 is payable to secure a place on the expedition.
Balance
The balance is payable 90 days prior to your trip commencement date.
Cancellation & Refund Policy
Once you have paid your deposit your trip is confirmed, subject to payment of the balance of fees owing 90 days prior to your trip commencement date. An expedition member may then cancel their participation on the following basis:
Trip Cancellation Insurance
We strongly recommend you take out trip cancellation insurance via your travel agent if you wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons.
The Expedition Trip Notes provide detailed information and background for Adventure Consultants' Lhotse Expedition.
You can view the trip notes online by clicking the image or download a pdf by clicking the following link:
Logistics
With technology constantly evolving, Adventure Consultants have kept abreast of all the new techniques and equipment advancements - encompassing the latest in weather forecasting facilities, equipment innovations and communications systems.
Guy Cotter, CEO/IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide
The 2024 Lhotse Expedition is being organised by Guy Cotter, director of Adventure Consultants and a veteran of 27 years of high altitude expedition guiding and organisation.
Lhotse is not the place to be with an organisation that is ‘learning the ropes’, there is too much at stake for that. Adventure Consultants expedition staff, along with the operations and logistics team at the head office in New Zealand, provide the highest level of backup and support to the climbing team in order to maximise your chances of success. This is coupled with a very strong expedition guiding team and Sherpa contingent, who, you will come to see, are second-to-none in the industry.
Our international guiding staff are the best in the industry. You will find the Adventure Consultants mountain guides companionable and strong expedition leaders with considerable abilities and a willingness to see you achieve your goals. The number of guides is determined by the team size but the normal ratio of guides to members is 1:4.
Our group of climbing Sherpas is enthusiastic, motivated and regarded as the strongest and most cohesive group of Sherpas on Mt Everest and Lhotse. They have dozens of Everest summits between them.
Da Jangbu Sherpa, Expedition Sirdar
Da Jangbu Sherpa, our Expedition Sirdar, has summitted Everest an impressive 13 times and brings with him considerable knowledge and experience. As a consequence of his leadership, we have a legendary group of Climbing Sherpas who operate in a harmonious atmosphere of cooperation and commitment to the expedition.
Our cooking staff are very well known for the quality of the cuisine they produce and are coveted by other team leaders due to the reputation they have established. We have been developing the personnel within our Sherpa team for 18 years and they are an integral part of the Adventure Consultants Team.
Bronwen Waters, Everest Basecamp Manager
A qualified ski guide, ski patroller and trekking guide, Bronwen has built a career out of guiding around the world, having previously guided expeditions to Mera Peak, Everest Base Camp, Kilimanjaro, Bhutan and the Altaii Tavan Mountains in Mongolia, including an ascent of Mt Khuiten. She has also worked as a ski guide and ski patroller for numerous seasons in New Zealand, Canada, Norway and Japan.
Dr Sara Gordon, Expedition Doctor 2019
With a background in Rural Hospital Medicine and General Practice, New Zealander Sara first joined AC as Expedition Doctor on our 2017 Dhaulagiri team and 2019 Everest team. Sara is no stranger to heights, having lived at altitude in North America and enjoyed trekking in the Himalayas, NZ and Japan. Prior to training in medicine, Sara worked as an outdoor instructor and river guide in New Zealand and now instructs in Wilderness and Polar Medicine. In her free time, Sara enjoys backcountry and mountain adventures in New Zealand, where she has been a Search & Rescue team member in Auckland and Nelson over the past 12 years.
Dr Sophie Wallace, Medical Advisor
Sophie works for AC in the capacity of our Medical Advisor, as well as having been our Expedition Doctor at Everest Base Camp in 2014, 2017 and 2018. She is an experienced emergency physician, currently based at the Royal Perth Hospital in Australia. Originally from the United Kingdom, Sophie has a passion for the outdoors and has trekked, travelled, dived and worked in remote high altitude locations around the world.
Running successful journeys and expeditions is more about experience, knowledge and strategic management than any other factors. As an organisation, we place a substantial amount of time and resources into ensuring our trips are well planned and supported. You can be assured that the AC staff will provide you with friendly advice and knowledgeable support throughout the planning stages of your trip and we will be there to provide backup while the trip is running.
Kelly McLaren, Expedition Liaison
Having worked for Adventure Consultants since 2004, Kelly has gained a vast knowledge of AC expeditions and treks. In her role as Expedition Liaison, Kelly will assist with the planning and logistics for your trip, providing useful information, reminders and answering any questions to ensure you arrive well prepared.
Your Health
AC provides a dedicated doctor for the whole team as standard. Most other teams use a generic medical provider whilst our doctor is there primarily for you and your team mates. The doctor will monitor your overall health throughout the expedition and our medical equipment and provisions are there to provide for your health care needs.
Ample resources will be on call to support each and every climber, not just the first team or fittest members. Remember, this is an expedition led by guides whose job it is to look after your interests. This should not be confused with a "professionally led" expedition where often you may be buying a place in a team with fewer support services and led by climbers who are attempting the summit primarily for themselves. There are also “Sherpa led” expeditions where you are placed in the hands of a Sherpa for the climb. This can seem alluring, especially when some expedition operators will encourage completely inexperienced climbers to join so they can fill their available spaces, but too often these expeditions have over 20 members! Most Sherpas are not trained in medical techniques and are often reluctant to act effectively in situations requiring urgency. This is where the skills and experience of your western guide becomes invaluable. Too often expedition members find out the deficiencies of their guides/operators when things begin to go wrong which is usually too late.
Difficulty Rating
Each of our trips is individually rated according to its physical and technical difficulty, displayed in the icons towards the top of each trip page. You can click on the accompanying question mark for additional descriptions and the full run-down of our grading system is available on our Difficulty Ratings page.
What You Carry
We have the luxury of a strong Sherpa team that will carry all the team equipment, food and oxygen on the mountain. They will also carry your sleeping bag for you between camps on camp-move days. This will leave you with a lighter load on our camp-move day but it is still worth keeping your equipment to the necessities only.
Ensure your backpack is large enough to fit all your gear into as well as cameras, mittens, food, water bottles and glasses/goggles etc. Generally, a pack of around 80 litres will carry all your kit. On the most part, we will be able to carry a good portion of our gear ahead to a higher camp, to be followed by another small load when we move up to stay at that camp.
When you leave Camp 3 you will be wearing down clothing and have an oxygen cylinder in your pack. As it often warms up during this day you may have to strip down and stow down gear in your pack. Each bottle weights around 3kg/7lb and the regulator weighs 1kg/2.2lb.
On summit day team members will be required to carry 2 oxygen bottles out from Camp 4 and after the first bottle is finished, you will be carrying one bottle for the rest of the day. Each time that bottle is finished you will have it replaced with a full one by the Sherpas and guides.
Additional Sherpa support is available should you want all your gear carried on camp move days. This is at additional cost so please enquire early if you want this facility to give us enough time to arrange the hire of the extra Sherpas.
What it Takes
No 8,000m peak is ‘easy’. We are operating in an extreme environment that we need to treat with respect and caution. However, to be successful we must also know when to ‘push’, and when not to. Prospective members on this expedition must be robust and prepared for the rigours of altitude; essentially come prepared for hard work and physical output. However, we must also know not to push too hard, but operate at the level just below our aerobic threshold so we can save our energy for the summit attempt. In other words, we must ease our way up the route leaving our reserves for when we need them. Effective fitness training prior to the expedition is crucial, check out our Fitness Training Programs to see how we can help.
Appropriate prerequisites would be ascents of Denali, Aconcagua or even other 8,000m peaks. Strong technical climbers who are used to lugging big loads into remote locations would find the transition to 8,000m doable. Climbers must be confident on crampons and be conversant with snow and ice techniques. Rope skills such as rappelling, belaying and ascending ropes are imperative skills also.
On this climb we carry our own personal gear between camps, with sleeping bags carried by our Sherpa team on camp move days. Additional Sherpa support is available for those who desire it but at all times we will carry our own kit for each day such as jacket, water camera etc. On summit day we will climb with the support of our Sherpas and utilise bottled oxygen.
Food
AC will import western food for the expedition and supplement this with fresh and dried Nepalese products. Our expeditions are renowned for the quality of the food and the expertise of our cooks. Fresh food is transported up the Khumbu Valley throughout the expedition and we try as much as possible to provide fresh vegetables with every main meal. We bring a variety of foods and snack foods to cater to most tastes however if you have specific needs or a favourite snack food / treat for the trekking days or high on the mountain, we recommend you bring some with you.
We highly recommend reading Mark Twight’s book, Extreme Alpinism – Climbing Light, Fast and High for ideas about nutrition for mountaineering (as well as a myriad of advice on training and mental fortitude etc.).
It is a good idea to try out different snacks, energy bars and gels during your training. It can be difficult to stomach certain foods at high altitude so finding something that suits you is very important. Once you find what works for you we suggest you bring a supply with you to supplement the snacks that we provide.
Clothing & Equipment
Expedition members will be sent a list detailing all necessary clothing and equipment to be individually provided, contained within a set of Expedition Reference notes with all the details for the trip. These notes provide extensive information on everything from suggestions of what type of camera to bring, to training advice for your expedition preparation.
Oxygen & Sherpa Support
On our standard expedition package climbers are provided with 2-3 litres of oxygen per minute for the climbing days above Camp 3 and 0.5 litres per minute for sleeping. This is sufficient for an ascent of Lhotse although we can arrange for a Max Ox option should you want that option (4 litres per minute climbing and 1 litre per minute sleeping).
Another service we can offer is ‘Additional Sherpa Support’ or a ‘Personal Sherpa’. Additional Sherpa support enables climbers to forego the carrying of heavy packs on camp carry days which is often very debilitating at high altitude. For some climbers, the long climb with a pack up to the top camp can leave them too exhausted for summit day and hence this service greatly enhances your summit opportunity. The Personal Sherpa option is for a personal Sherpa to climb with you throughout the expedition, starting from Base Camp, all the way to the summit and back again. Please enquire should you be interested in rates.
| Day | |
| 1 | Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal |
| 2 | Kathmandu preparations |
| 3 | Fly to Lukla (2,860m/9,383ft) |
| 4-12 | Trek to Base Camp (5,300m/17,400ft) |
| 13-35 | Establish camps and acclimatise |
| 36-38 | Rest Period |
| 39-48 | Summit Climb Period |
| 49 | Clean up |
| 50-54 | Trek to Lukla |
| 55 | Fly back to Kathmandu |
| 56 | Depart Kathmandu |
We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu. We meet for a team briefing, gear checks and last minute purchases then fly by fixed wing into Lukla airport in the Khumbu Valley. We trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa homelands via the Khumbu Valley, enjoying Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with good food, and all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the lower Khumbu.
On the way, we trek over the Kongma La, a high (5,535m/18,159ft) pass with exceptional views of Ama Dablam, Makalu and the hundreds of other amazing peaks in the region. This gives us a bit of an acclimatisation advantage heading to Base Camp when we arrive the next evening.
Our Base Camp is very well appointed with a high level of comfort including your own walk-in sleeping tents with comfortable beds, high-quality food, comfortably heated dining tent with comfortable chairs and couches. We provide a communications centre for email and web access (you pay for use) and we have our own dedicated doctor who is there to ensure your health and well-being on the expedition.
By the time we first arrive at Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall, a route will already be established with ropes and ladders through to Camp 1. Our strong Sherpa team will be busily involved in ferrying loads of equipment up the mountain.
We do two forays into the Khumbu Icefall for ladder training and familiarisation before moving to Camp 1 (5,900m/19,500ft). After a couple of nights at Camp 1 we move to Camp 2 (6,400m/21,000ft) for several nights' acclimatisation with a foray to the Lhotse face thrown in to push our acclimatisation. Our Camp 2 base is set up with cook tents with dedicated cooks, a heated dining tent with tables and chairs. Mountain camps are shared sleeping.
After a rest in Base Camp, we move through Camps 1 and 2 and spend one night at Camp 3 (7,300m/23,700ft) to complete our acclimatisation program. We then descend to Base Camp to await a weather window in which to make our summit bid. When we do so, we move up through the camps and establish the last camp within a couple of hundred metres of the summit couloir. The ascent should take 6-8 hours, depending on whether we are fixing rope at the time. All going well we will descend to Camp 2 after the summit, then drop back to Base Camp the next morning.
We offer a range of additional service options to complement our comprehensive array of expedition inclusions. These service options enable you to customise your expedition to your own specifications and can greatly increase your comfort and summit chances. Please contact us for current pricing and to discuss your specific needs.
Everest & Lhotse Combined
Climb two of the world’s highest peaks in 2 days! After an Everest ascent, take a rest day on South Col before continuing on to scale Lhotse for US$24,000. Contact us for more details.
Triple Crown
Complete the Triple Crown - Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse in one expedition. Enquire for details.
Over the previous few seasons, we have offered additional services to increase the options available to our team members. Max OX (maximum oxygen) was offered to allow climbers a high flow rate of 4 litres per minute for climbing and 1 litre per minute for sleeping. This is double the normal rate we work on for the climb and the response from members who have taken this option has been very positive. With Max OX, we feel that a person’s ability to summit with a higher level of cognisance has been pronounced.
Shouldering a heavy burden can be debilitating at the higher elevations and sap crucial energy levels right when you need it. Another service we now include in the expedition price is ‘Additional Sherpa Support’. This enables climbers to forego the carrying of heavy packs, which is often very debilitating at high altitude. For some climbers, the long climb with a pack up to the top camp at South Col can leave them too exhausted for summit day and hence, this service greatly enhances your summit opportunity.
We can, however, add an additional layer of support through our Personal Sherpa option. This option provides you with the assistance of a very experienced and dedicated Sherpa who will support you for the duration of the expedition above Base Camp. Your Personal Sherpa will climb with you each day while you are climbing on the mountain as your climbing partner and generally assist you throughout the expedition all the way to the summit. When on the mountain, you would share a tent with your Personal Sherpa and he would supervise cooking duties. Our Sherpa guides are very experienced with multiple ascents of Everest and other high peaks under their belts, and are friendly and supportive companions along the way!
We are also able to offer Privately Guided Expeditions where you have the services of a top AC Western guide as well as your own Sherpa support team to work exclusively with you on the expedition to ensure your needs are best met. AC have been fortunate to work with many privately guided groups over the years with exceptional results.
We can also offer a return helicopter flight directly from Base Camp to Kathmandu if you require a speedy egress after your expedition to meet your personal or business commitments. Please enquire for details.
You may also like to talk to us about other options such as personal communication systems or the provision of a personal tent on the mountain.
For more information, please contact our office for details.
Finding the right travel and rescue insurance for your mountaineering adventure can be tricky! Rest assured when you book with the expedition specialists here at Adventure Consultants we'll help by sending through advice on what you'll need, including:
For further information check out our Travel and Rescue Insurance page or contact us.
The following is to serve as a helpful guideline on our 8,000m peak expeditions. Please feel free to contact us if you have any further questions. Our team is here to help!
info@adventure.co.nz
NZ: +64 3 443 8711 (Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm PST + 19 hours)
Please note you will be emailed a set of Team Reference Notes upon registration. This extensive booklet includes detailed information to assist in the planning of your trip, from travel and medical advice to equipment lists and photography tips.
How long have Adventure Consultants been in operation?
Adventure Consultants started in 1990 and we have been guiding internationally ever since. You can read more about AC's history here.
A few outfitters claim to have the same level of experience and prestige as Adventure Consultants. In this league, what makes you the first choice for your climbers?
We are renowned for the quality of service and strategy applied to our expeditions. Our reputation is attributed to the meticulous planning and logistics coordination done by our head office. Nowhere else will you find a team of people more dedicated to your success! From when you first contact the AC office to the time you step on the mountain, our customer service is second to none. The AC team of guides and Sherpas will ensure that this expedition is run to our high standards and will be an enjoyable expedition with a great group of people.
What sort of hotels do we stay at in the city?
We stay at the Radisson Hotel in Kathmandu, which features a rooftop swimming pool and on-site dining. Ideally located in Lazmipat, the hotel is adjacent to the Narayanhiti Palace Museum and is within walking distance of popular attractions including Durbar Marg and Thamel.
Will I be sharing a tent or room with other climbers? Is there a single room option on this trip?
We generally book you into a single room at the hotel in Kathmandu and then twin share in any lodges used during the trek into Base Camp. When you arrive at Base Camp you will have your own tent but on the mountain you will share a tent with others. A single supplement is available, please contact our office for further details. On the Shishapangma and Cho Oyu expeditions, we book twin-share hotel rooms in Lhasa.
What showers and laundry facilities will be available on the expedition?
Showers will often be available at the hotels and lodges on the approach to Base Camp, sometimes for a small fee. We do offer shower facilities on all our 8,000m expeditions and these will be made available as often as possible at your Base Camp. We advise people to bring wet wipes for impromptu washes in between available showers. It is also possible to hand wash clothes at Base Camp between climbing cycles.
What food will be available?
If you have any special treat that you like, we encourage you to bring some along. You’ll get breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks, as well as ample hot and cold drinks. Please indicate any specific dietary requirements on your application form and we will be happy to accommodate you. All of our expeditions provide excellent local and Western food! On the mountain, we usually have a wide variety of MREs (Meals, Ready-to-Eat). These are significantly tastier than freeze-dried meals, as they are real food vacuum-sealed and ready to heat and eat.
We work really hard to make sure our food is second to none. Our food is rated so highly that our guides are frequently seen chasing guides and clients from other expeditions out of our mess tents!
Do I need to arrive the day before the trip starts? And when should I book my flight to leave?
No, our trip programmes all have an arrival day and a departure day built into them. You should plan to arrive before 3pm on Day 1. You are welcome, and encouraged, to arrive a bit earlier to explore Kathmandu if you have the time. Before your expedition, you will receive a “final details” email. This will let you know the time and place to meet your guides. An AC representative will meet you at the airport and the first of many team briefings will take place on the evening of Day 1.
You are free to depart from the last day of the trip. Please do not book to depart before the final scheduled itinerary day.
What is the best way to get to Nepal?
Regular flights operate into Kathmandu via Bangkok, Doha, Hong Kong, Singapore and Delhi.
My travel agent says I can just get an ‘e’ ticket (electronic ticket) and will not need to be issued a physical ticket.
'E' tickets are the standard practice these days and are now acceptable in most locations. Do ensure that you print your itinerary and have your booking number with you, as this allows our local agents to assist with changing your return flight plans if need be, while you are in the mountains.
When should I book my ticket?
Generally, we ask you to wait until 90 days prior to your trip start date to ensure that your trip has met the minimum numbers and will operate. If you see a good deal and want to book your flights earlier, then ensure that you can make changes to your tickets or you run the risk of losing them if we do have to cancel the trip.
Can I get a cheap ticket online?
The problem with these tickets is that you usually end up having to pay quite a lot more if you have to make any changes. We highly recommend using a travel agent, as there are many intricacies that they can help you with. In the long run, they save you money! We use professional travel agents for all our staff and guides' travel bookings.
Where do we meet? Will I be picked up?
Please plan to fly into Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM). An Adventure Consultants guide or representative will be there to pick you up off your flight. If you are arriving before the scheduled trip start date, we can often still make arrangements for a pickup.
Can I arrive early or depart late?
Of course. We request that you arrive in Kathmandu by the assigned date to assure your baggage makes it on time and you have time to recover from jet lag before going to altitude. It is impossible on this expedition to catch the group if you are arriving late and still waiting for lost baggage! Some people depart from our expeditions later to enjoy the sights and sounds of Kathmandu, but do keep in mind that this is a long expedition and we find that people often want to head home as quickly as possible after the climb finishes.
Do I need to get a visa?
Yes. Nepal visas can either be obtained on arrival into Kathmandu or can be issued in advance through an online visa system. Be sure to have the correct USD amount in cash for your visa application and have a passport photo for your arrival in Kathmandu. Currently, a 30-day visa costs $50 and 90-day visa costs US$125.
For the Shishapangma expedition to Tibet, visas are processed in Kathmandu following your arrival. Do make sure that your passport has at least six months validity and more details on this process are included in your Reference Notes, which will be emailed out to you upon sign up.
Do you have a recommended list of clothing we should bring?
Once we have received your application we will email you a copy of our Reference Notes which include detailed equipment lists. Any questions you have after reading through this can be directed to our Equipment Coordinator, who can assist you by recommending and sourcing a range of clothing and equipment suitable for the climb via our gear retail service.
Do I really need all the equipment on the equipment list?
Yes. These lists have been carefully prepared so please bring everything on the list!
Can I bring food and other gear not on the list?
Absolutely! Most of our expedition members end up bringing “the kitchen sink!" We encourage you to bring some of your favourite goodies and tech toys, as Base Camp will become our home. The more comfortable you are, the more energy you have for the climb, so every little thing helps!
How heavy will my pack be?
We will have the luxury of a strong Sherpa team that will carry team equipment, food and oxygen on the mountain. Whilst there are some instances where the Sherpa may take a couple of small items for you to the next camp, this is only occasional and you are expected to carry your personal gear. This is achieved by taking small amounts of your gear to the higher camps each time you go. However there are times when you must carry all your personal gear at one time making for a fairly heavy load. When you put all your gear into a pack it still amounts to between 18-25kg/40-55lbs so the load is not insignificant and you must come prepared for the high level of physical output. This reinforces the need to take just the right amount of equipment with you on the mountain and to ensure you are ‘pack fit’ before you arrive.
Given the large amount of equipment that I need to bring, can I send freight ahead?
Sending your equipment ahead by freight is not as easy as it sounds. The costs can be considerable with expensive clearance and duty fees, plus time delays getting your gear out of customs. We advise against it, but if considering it, please contact us to discuss the process and associated costs.
How warm do we need our sleeping bags to be? Will there be extra blankets available if required?
This will be clearly stated on your expedition equipment list. Blankets are generally not available so pay careful attention to the type of bag we recommend. We suggest buying a sleeping bag big enough to allow you to wear extra clothes in if it is especially cold. Sleeping in a warm hat can greatly improve a bag's warmth.
What altitude medication will be available? Do we need to take tablets before/during the expedition?
All our guides carry extensive medical kits including Diamox, Dexamethasone, Nifedipine and Sildenafil for altitude illness. Some of our bigger expeditions even have their own doctor. Generally, there is no need to take prophylactic altitude medication before or during your expedition but if you have a previous history of altitude illness, then please discuss this with us and your physician.
You do, however, need to bring any medications you regularly use (don’t forget to tell us about them), plus extras. Also, bring a small first aid kit including a blister kit and mild headache medication for the normal altitude headaches.
What sort of O2 masks do you use?
We use Summit and Topout masks plus regulators for all our Sherpas, guides and climbers.
What is the oxygen bottle size?
We use 4-litre Poisk bottles, which are the lightest available at 3.5kg/8lbs each.
What is Max OX? How does it work?
The Max OX option is simple and in this era of better O2 systems, we wanted to offer our team members every possible advantage to summit. The Max OX option allows you to climb on a higher bottled oxygen flow rate, thus increasing your chance of success. Please see the 'Add Ons' section above for more information.
Who goes on your trips?
Our climbers come from a wide variety of backgrounds, interests, countries and skill levels. From those seeking skill development to those seeking assistance with the world's highest mountains or purely adventure, we provide courses, expeditions, treks and guided ascents for all levels of outdoor enthusiasts.
Can I contact other climbers or guides for this expedition?
Yes, we encourage that. Perhaps there is someone in your area who can become a training partner, perhaps they can help you source some hard to find gear. The bottom line is that it’s a good idea to have some contact with folks that you will share this experience with. We respect the privacy of each team member and check with each person before releasing any contact details.
How many guides/Sherpas will be assigned to our group?
A ratio of climbers to Western guides is stated on each trip’s web page in the downloadable ‘Trip Notes’. Sherpa guides are assigned depending on the size of the group and type of expedition.
How much should I tip my guide staff? What about the Sherpa staff?
This is a difficult thing to gauge. We have seen everything from US$20 to US$10,000 for an 8,000m expedition. It is worth remembering that you will have a high degree of contact with some of the Sherpa staff, while others will be working away in the background providing necessary services to keep the expedition running and therefore we feel it is appropriate to include them in the tipping pool.
Can my friends and family join me on the trek into Base Camp?
Yes, this is possible on some of our expeditions so please do enquire directly with the Adventure Consultants office.
I would like to arrange a private trip, is this possible?
We are happy to arrange a private group trip and we have run many successful private trips and expeditions including summits of 8,000m peaks such as Gasherbrum 2 and Kanchenjunga, all of the Seven Summits and remote destinations such as Antarctica. Some clients enjoy the added privacy and schedule flexibility that a private expedition allows, so you can hike and climb at your own pace and enjoy the mountains on your own terms. There is no specific group size, but obviously larger groups are more cost-effective. Please contact the office for more information or visit our Private Customised Expeditions page.
What kind of physical condition should I be in for a climb at high altitude?
You should be in the best shape of your life! We invite you to check out our Fitness Training Page and recommend checking with your physician before embarking on strenuous physical activity. For our high altitude expeditions, you should be comfortable walking for 5-9 hours with a weighted pack, although summit days on some peaks can be over 20 hours long! Pack weight can be 18-25kg/40-55lbs on carry days on but only 5-7kg/11-15lbs on summit day and on the trek in. Working out every day with day-long hikes with a weighted pack on the weekends is generally a good realistic training programme. Day by day the challenges are different, but the more prepared you are both mentally and physically, the smoother your trip will go.
How long is a typical day on the mountain?
It depends on the day and your level of acclimatisation. At the beginning of the trip, everything seems slower and longer, but as you get more adjusted to the mountain, the days go quicker. Average days can be 5-10 hours long. Summit day can be up to 20 hours long.
How do you train for a trip like this?
Our standard response to this question is that you become a climber first, and everything else during this portion of your life comes second. This is the level of dedication to your training, both mental and physical, that you need to have. We have specific ideas around training and great book suggestions to help you along. Please look over our Fitness Training Programmes page for details. If you require more information please contact our office and we will be happy to put you in touch with one of our senior guides for a consultation. We can also link you with our training coach to design a training programme for you.
How do I know this is the right trip for me?
We offer trips to suit all levels of ability and ambition, from your first mountain experience to extreme ascents and everything in between. To help you navigate the choices available, our trips are graded by both the level of physical exertion and the level of skill required, allowing you to find your perfect expedition match. These ratings are displayed in the icons at the top of each expedition page, with a further explanation available by clicking on the accompanying question mark. A full run-down of the categories can be found on our Difficulty Ratings page and our team is more than happy to discuss your experience to find the right trip for you.
Will there be any power source for charging batteries and electronic equipment throughout the expedition? What are the voltage requirements?
We take solar panels and battery power packs on our expeditions. Our first priority is to charge our computers, satellite phones and expedition electrical equipment. There is usually enough power to then charge your personal electrical equipment. If your equipment has a cigarette lighter car charger, bring that and you can plug it in to charge. We do NOT recommend bringing rechargeable digital cameras as they tend to run out when power is not available. Use cameras with replaceable batteries and we recommend lithium batteries. We can cater for special power requirements at an extra cost - please enquire with our office. Many of the lodges also have power available with typical Asian plug sockets (two horizontal prongs) and can recharge batteries for a small fee.
Will there be any access to a satellite phone? If so, what are the charges for usage?
Yes, most of our expedition guides take satellite phones and you are welcome to use these at US$3 to $4 per minute depending on the region.
I want to contact a friend or relative who is on one of your trips, how can I reach them?
Most of our expeditions send daily internet dispatches, and we receive updates from our guides while they are in the field. The best place to reach a loved one is through our office.
What weather report service do you use?
We receive comprehensive weather forecasts from our Swiss meteorologists which enable us to plan our ascent around favourable weather. Additional meteorological interpretation is provided by veteran high altitude guides through our head office in New Zealand and helps manage the decision-making process.
What insurance do we need to get?
We require you to have insurance for any personal or medical mishaps may occur during the expedition. This should include cover for illness, medical emergency and/or evacuation. We also highly recommend purchasing a comprehensive travel insurance policy to provide cover for trip interruption or cancellation, baggage loss, damage or theft, delayed flights or other such incidents that may occur during your trip. Please contact us for expedition insurance advice or visit our webpage here.
Do I need evacuation insurance?
Yes, it is very important. Many of our expeditions are in remote places with no roads and developing medical services. In the unlikely event that you get sick, you want to get to good medical care ASAP.
Who do you recommend for insurance?
Coverage varies based on your nationality and the trip that you are taking with us. When you have booked on for a trip with us, we will send you comprehensive information on various insurance options which will serve as a good starting point.
What is trip cancellation insurance?
Trip cancellation insurance is an option that may allow you to cancel your trip without taking a loss on non-refundable expenses already paid. Adventure Consultants highly recommends trip cancellation insurance. If circumstances cause us to cancel a trip (for example, if minimum numbers are not reached or travel to a country becomes too dangerous) then we will refund your fees paid but trip cancellation insurance covers your airfare and any other costs you may have incurred.
Can I pay by credit card?
We can accept both the trip deposit and balance payment on credit card. Please note that there is a 3% fee for all card transactions. Please contact our office or visit our secure online payment system page.
What is included in the cost of my trip? Does it include airfare?
You can find information on expedition inclusions and exclusions in the 'Payment Conditions' section above. International airfares are not included in the trip price, but we can recommend excellent travel agents with whom we have worked should you require help with arranging your airfare.
How much should I budget for this expedition? How much cash should I plan to bring?
In addition to the cash you should bring for staff gratuities, you will also need to take funds for the likes of laundry, bottled water, alcohol, showers and any other sundry purchases that you may make. Approximately US$300-500 should suffice for the trek in and out for such small purchases.
Why are you sometimes more expensive than other operators?
Many of our trips are very similar in price to our competitors. Some companies even wait for us to set our prices and use ours as a guideline! Some of our main selling points, which sometimes do cost more, are internationally qualified Western guides, proven dependable local operators, small group sizes and safe client-to-guide ratios, quality equipment and high summit success rates, among other things. You do get what you pay for which is why we stand out from the rest. Many clients come to us after failing on one of our competitors ‘cheaper’ trips.
How do I sign up for a trip?
The best way to reserve your space on the expedition is to contact our office or complete our online booking form (click 'Book Now' below). Your deposit can be submitted by bank transfer (please see 'Payment Details' in the 'Payment Conditions' section above) or via our secure online payment system.
info@adventure.co.nz
NZ: +64 3 443 8711 (Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm PST + 19 hours
I love the photographs in your brochure and on your website, are they for sale?
Yes, our images are available for licensing or purchase. Please contact our office for further information.
What is the best equipment for photography in alpine environments?
There is an extensive section in our Reference Notes, which are sent out on receipt of your trip registration form and deposit, explaining about photography in the mountains.
Remember photos are wonderful records of your expedition but keep camera gear simple and light to best enjoy the trip you are on. Disposable and digital cameras are the lightest weight, but all cameras have maintenance issues that need to be carefully considered before bringing them to high elevations.
What about the Maoists in Nepal?
The Maoist problem which partly crippled the economy of Nepal for a decade garnered major international interest. The Maoists have now formed part of the Nepalese government and there is a comprehensive peace agreement in place so we hope the troubles of the past are put behind the Nepalese people. Our sources in Nepal keep us up to date with the political situation and if there are significant changes we will be sure to advise you.
I want to become a mountain guide, where do I start?
Those with limited experience generally start by taking an alpine climbing course and then go out and climb for a few years. You generally should have at least 5 years of climbing and/or teaching/guiding experience. You need avalanche and medical training and then you can apply to do an NZ Mountain Guides Course or the equivalent in your country, aligned with the IFMGA.
Please see Adventure Consultants Mountain Guide Scholarships on our Career Opportunities page and check the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association for more information.
Dispatches - Lhotse 2016
Dispatches - Lhotse 2013
