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Dear ,
Newsletter December 2011
We are quickly rocketing into summer mode here in New Zealand which heralds that time of year when we get a constant flow of climbers from across the globe coming through our HQ here in Wanaka. I really enjoy meeting expectant new-comers before a trip or the seasoned expedition climber visiting New Zealand’s Southern Alps for the first time, then observe the changes in them when they return from the mountains a few days later.
Sometimes it is just a faint smile of satisfaction, while at other times a grin as big as the bergschrund on the Lhotse face. Occasionally it may be that there is a dash of disappointment at a missed summit through weather turning at the wrong time, or conditions not being safe on a particular route causing a turn around. Whatever the outcome of the trip, the effect of the mountain environment is etched upon us and reflected through a glint in the eye that shows we have been deeply moved by our interaction with nature in its most powerful form. While not always
beer and skittles*, it sure beats trying to elude life’s challenges in pursuit of a comfortable existence!
Guides and climbers in the Adventure Consultants extended family are traipsing over several other parts of the world right now, while others are getting set to head out on adventures and trips. Whatever the near future holds for you, I wish you all the very best for the upcoming festive season.
Right, I’m out of here to go climbing.
Guy Cotter
CEO
Adventure Consultants
* = easy
Latest news...
New Zealand
Late season snowfalls have set the glaciers up well for the spring season and climbing conditions are perfect right now. We’ve had several successful ascents of our highest peak, Aoraki/Mt Cook with access in the Linda glacier proving to be very good. The first Alpine Expedition Course and the Alpine Climbing Courses have had a good run of weather. Having just returned from running an ACC in the Mt Cook region, senior guide Paul Aubrey says ‘we’ve done eight days in a row of climbing and the course members are feeling a bit knackered.’
All our guides are fully booked for December which is great considering we are experiencing such good conditions. There are a couple of spaces remaining in January while February is ok at this time but considering the good level of enquiry we’re getting for that period we recommend anyone still finalising plans to get in contact to secure a space.
Ama Dablam
On 30 October our small team of climbers reached the summit of this iconic peak. The trip was being led by Victor Saunders (for his 8th ascent) along with our star Sherpa team led by Lhakpa Dorje who has more than 10 ascents to his name! Congratulations to team members David Acott, David Pinches and Stuart Laird for achieving this great result.
Ama Dablam 2011 Dispatches
Ama Dablam 2012 expedition details - accepting applications to join now.
Cholatse
Our inaugural ascent of Cholatse was rewarded with a successful outcome when all members reached the summit via the SW ridge. The expedition was led by long time AC guide and raconteur Paul Rogers who specialises in small groups on technical routes. The team consisted of experienced climbers who were looking for a higher degree of adventure than might be found on the ‘popular’ climbs. Initially the team was intending to attempt the NW ridge but a last minute change was made to climb via the SW ridge due to reports of poor conditions on the NW. To begin the adventure the team travelled up the Khumbu valley to climb Lobuche East as an acclimatisation and shakedown climb then crossed the Cho La to the basecamp. They placed 2 camps on the mountain and reached the summit in perfect conditions on 11 November. AC will operate this excellent little expedition again next year so we encourage prospective members to apply to join. Spaces are limited and previous experience is required as it’s reasonably burly!
Check out the dispatches on the climb at Cholatse 2011
Cho Oyu
Heavy snow and bad weather through the middle of the season thwarted rope fixing efforts so no groups were able to summit prior to our team having a shot at the summit of Cho Oyu. This left our group in the situation where they made an attempt while fixing ropes at the same time and sadly the ascent was thwarted at 8,000m when time ran out for them. This was a disappointing result for the team as they had put so much hard work and commitment into the expedition up to that point. Lead guide, Victor Saunders, was devastated when he couldn’t pull off a successful outcome for the team as they were a strong and capable group. The team members were able to experience climbing with oxygen above Camp 3 but just didn’t quite bag the summit.
Kilimanjaro
AC client liaison Tiffany Shervell travelled to Africa this year to join one of our groups on Kilimanjaro. After the expedition she reconnoitered some ‘add on’ options including a walking safari in Longido where you get to live with the Masai in their villages followed by a beach holiday on the opulent island of Zanzibar. Here she shares some thoughts and impressions of her journey to these unique destinations;
“On first meeting my Masai guide, Sambeke I realised what a vivacious and entertaining character I would have the pleasure of spending three days with while discovering Longido, a Masai Mara area north of Arusha. The Longido trek gives you the rare opportunity to experience the world of the Masai, learning about their culture. Sambeke is a well-known entity in this area who always has a good story or lesson to pass on including reading animal tracks, learning about the medicinal uses of the plants in the area, as well as Masai traditions relating to marriage and ceremonies. The Masai people are very open so despite the language barrier, I felt welcomed whenever we would meet Sambeke’s various friends including a group of the village chiefs along the way. A visit to a local boma gave me a rare opportunity to see the daily routine of Masai life and we stopped by the Masai women’s market to shop for some of the intricate bead work that the they are
famous for.
I thought the Longido experience was well worthwhile as I got to feel what it is like to live with the Masai people in their villages.”
“If you really want to maximise your time in Africa after your Kilimanjaro climb, and perhaps enjoy a taste of island life after the climb, then I high recommend visiting Zanzibar, described as ‘the spice islands.’
You can fly from Arusha directly into Zanzibar, a flight of only 45 minutes. This hidden tropical Tanzanian gem sits off the coast of the mainland in the Indian Ocean. It is famous for friendly people, white beaches and unique Arabian/African architecture that is found in the narrow alleyways and tall buildings in the area known as Stonetown.
Stonetown was at one time the centre for much of Africa’s slave trading. This most likely explains the multicultural community there and this is reflected in the array of shops and restaurants and markets that make the town so interesting to walk around and explore. Now a World Heritage site, it is well worth a visit, whether you prefer to get lost in the history and alleys of Stonetown or to enjoy the waters surrounding this island for diving, kitesurfing or fishing.
If you are travelling on one of our Kilimanjaro departures and have some extra days, then get in touch with me for information about a visit to enjoy Sambeke’s company in Longido or travel to the island of Zanzibar.” Tiffany
In early November, Guy Cotter and Suze Kelly led a Private Kilimanjaro climb for a team of (mostly) first time climbers. The group consisted of 6 women and 3 men with the oldest summit climber being 62 and the youngest 29. The team reached the summit on a beautiful African morning with fresh snow on the ground! Congratulations!
Vinson
Our first expedition to Vinson in Antarctica has achieved success with the entire group reaching the summit on Dec 11 in perfect weather. The team is led by Dean Staples who is taking a break from the New Zealand summer to cool off for a bit on the ice. They all climbed to the top carrying their down gear in their packs as it was so warm during the ascent. The adventurous members of the group then went on to climb Mt Shinn, the continents’ third highest peak! Our second team for the season arrives in Punta Arenas just after Christmas with Steve Moffat at the helm, soon to be followed by our third group in mid- January. That team will be led by Mark Sedon. You can follow their climbs at Vinson 2011-12.
Ski the Last Degree - South Pole
Marion Joncheres and Carol McAlwee are headed off to Ski The Last Degree to the South Pole. Marion has just finished climbing Vinson Massif and will be joined by Carol for the great adventure. Think of them out on the polar plateau as you are enjoying your Christmas turkey (or dehy if you are in the hills yourself!)
Aconcagua
The first of the 3 Adventure Consultants Aconcagua expeditions this season is under way and the first group has left Mendoza in Argentina and right now is on the middle stages of the ascent with a summit bid due on or around the tomorrow (16th) of this month. Our Aconcagua expedition is purposefully designed with a very reasonable acclimatisation plan to avoid the extreme altitude issues found on the shorter (cheaper) itineraryies that do not promote responsible acclimatisation or allow for weather events. Our Aconcagua lead guide Matias Prieto has many years of experience in helping our groups reach this highest peak outside the Himalaya and is always a popular leader. The next group arrives into Mendoza for New Year celebrations ‘South American style’ then a departure for the mountain the next day. For some, it could be the hardest day of the trip! Our final departure starts January 29 and enjoys the warmer summer temperatures at the lower elevations.
See the Aconcagua 2011-12 Dispatch page to follow their climb(s).
Private Expeditions
These expeditions are customised expeditions that we develop for individuals or groups to suit available timeframes with various levels of services applied as required.
This year we’ve run several ‘high end’ private expeditions including a yacht based ski touring trip to the Antarctic Peninsula, Ecuador Volcanoes climbing, Greenland ski mountaineering, Great Himalaya Trail Trekking (including Kailash) and Private Kilimanjaro expeditions.
The private expeditions to Kilimanjaro have been popular for groups and families due to the flexibility and varying levels of services available. These range from our ‘standard’ Kilimanjaro trip through to full on `Luxury Services’. The Luxury Services expeditions make the trip a lot more palatable for those who are first time in the mountains or simply want a higher degree of comfort. This option comes with all the trappings such as; 5 star hotel, heaters in the dining tent, private toilets, bottled mineral water and a whole lot more.
In 2012 we have several private expeditions programmed. Again this year we have private groups on Everest in the spring. This option provides an excellent opportunity for climbers to enjoy the support of their own Sherpa and guide team. AC became recognized for the quality of this service after assisting Australians Cheryl and Nikki Bart to become the first mother and daughter team to the summit of Everest in 2007.
Mark Sedon is leading an expedition that will make a ski descent from Nepal’s Mera Peak while Lydia Bradey and Tim Robertson will be taking a group to Island Peak in Nepal.
Island Peak
We have space left on our Island Peak expedition running April 26 to May 19, 2012 in the pre-monsoon. If you are looking for a high quality holiday where you get to see the Mt Everest region and climb an achievable 6000m peak then this is the opportunity. Team members get to travel to Everest basecamp where our expedition has a very comfortable set up and a crossing of the Kongma La is also a real highlight.
Read about previous Island Peak trips: Island Peak 2011
Carstensz
We have a climb of Carstensz programmed for mid-March 2012 with only a couple of spaces left so if this exotic ascent is on your radar then touch base with us to get signed on. We ARE the Carstensz specialists, as we have been operating expeditions here since 1993!
See Carstensz 2012 programes
Carstensz 2011 Dispatches
Elbrus South side open!
Late last year, political instability in the Caucasus region of Russia forced the closure of the south side of Elbrus putting a stop to ascents via the normal route. Now, we are happy to announce that the South side has opened again and although we did operate two trips this year to the remote north side, we are happy to be returning to our favoured route again.
The appeal of the Elbrus trip is that it features the best of Russian architecture and art in St Petersburg and Moscow on the way into the country, soon to be balanced out with picturesque hikes in the forests and peaks of the Caucasus mountains as we acclimatise in the build up to the ascent of Elbrus itself. The climb is non-technical yet is challenging due to the high elevation but the rewards of the mountainous views are palpable.
Sign up now for this popular ascent that is one of the Seven Summits and an ideal first alpine objective for active people who want to have a sample of a little bit of altitude and some straightforward snow climbing as well as a good dose of Russian culture.
Skiing in Antarctica
We are happy to announce two 13 day ‘ship based’ trips to the Antarctic Peninsula beginning later next year! While we will still operate yacht-based expeditions for private groups, the ship-based options will enable people to travel in comfort with both skiing and non-skiing family or friends on the voyage to share the wonders of Antarctica. Once we are down in Antarctica the skiers are left by the ship to camp on the snow covered and glaciated Wiencke Island for four days (Trip #1) or six days (Trip #2), exploring and making some exquisite turns high above the ocean, whales and penguins Antarctica is famous for. Hop back aboard the ship for a shower and enjoy the journey back across the wildest stretch of water on earth, Drake Passage.
Manaslu 2012
Our Manaslu expedition targets the spring season because the weather and snow conditions on the mountain are better than in the post monsoon due to high snowfall levels that are predominant in Western Nepal. Our 2012 expedition in April/May is a professionally led trip run by Guy Cotter and geared towards those with 8k experience or a strong climbing CV.
'Did you hear the one about the Scotsman and the Kiwi?’
I met a Scottish fellow while rock climbing recently who, in the course of our conversation, started to let me know that Mt Everest was in a bad way these days because of all the people who climb it. I admitted that it is different than it used to be at one time and that there are what may appear to be a lot of people on the mountain.
But the conversation enabled me to express my view that the mountain is a lot less exclusive than it was historically and this enables access to a wider range of climbers who, in times gone by, would have been denied any opportunity to climb.
The majority of early expeditions to the Himalayas were the realm of national teams that would have by nature, been extremely political affairs that only allowed entry to those who were well connected and held in favour by the people controlling the purse strings. Even New Zealand’s climbing history was impacted when the power-elite of the British Geographical Society closed ranks after one of our climbers on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance pointed out to the other expedition members that perhaps Eric Shipton wasn’t the right guy to be leading a major assault on the world’s highest peak. Shipton, after all, did pride himself on being able to plan an expedition on the back of an envelope, an approach the experienced expedition leader from New Zealand pointed out was probably not the correct way to manage the major logistical exercise that a successful Everest ascent would require. Even though the British woke up to that fact after coming so close to being usurped by the Swiss in ’52, this particular kiwi was not invited back into the fold. Luckily the Brits had another couple of kiwis on the’53 team who played some part in the final outcome!
When I first started going to Everest in 1992, the official policy in Nepal was for there to be only one team allowed on any given route for the season. This led to a situation where corrupt Nepalese officials were cashing in by exchanging ‘additional permits’ in return for large blocks of clean US$100 bills.
During this period it was a very exclusive club that controlled who could get onto an Everest expedition. National teams (or climbers with wealthy sponsors) would buy their permit several years ahead of the planned trip, thereby locking up access to the mountain. It certainly wasn’t an era that encouraged lightweight alpine style ascents. (How did Messner do it? He was a member of a large Austrian expedition when he and Habeler made their first oxygenless ascent, whose Sherpas carried all the gear up and down whilst his solo ascent from the north was made during the monsoon, a period where it was easy to get a permit as no one else would be climbing at the time.)
Another regulation of the era required you to be an endorsed member of your national authorizing alpine organization. The implication of this was that if you were a citizen of a country such as Japan, you could only go to Everest if you were selected to join a Japanese Alpine Club expedition. This gave that governing body complete control of a Japanese citizen’s ability to climb high mountains, thereby ensuring they maintained a monopoly of the heady glory that came with success in the Himalayas.
Today these stringent controls no longer exist and it is much easier for any person to attempt the world’s highest mountain in a way that suits them, and not be (as) restricted by governmental regulations.
So the point I was making to my (by now ear-bashed new Scottish friend) was that yes, Everest may have changed, and there are impacts that are associated with that change, but the situation today is a lot more favourable than during times gone by. Now, any mountaineer who is sincerely motivated to make the necessary sacrifices and prepare themselves appropriately can embark on this most amazing adventure, on this most amazing mountain, in a much less exclusive manner than before - including him.
Guy Cotter
THE NORTH FACE ADVENTURE GRANT 2012
PRESENTED BY AG OUTDOOR
TURN YOUR ADVENTURE DREAMS INTO REALITY
APPLICATIONS CLOSING DECEMBER 31ST!
Planning and experiencing your ultimate adventure is never cheap, but thanks to The North Face, AG Outdoor and the Australian Geographic Society, it can happen. With a $5000 grant from The North Face, $2000 worth of The North Face gear, a $3000 AG Society Grant and an exclusive story on your trip in AG Outdoor, you'll not only be equipped with the world's most technically innovative apparel and equipment, you will be able to fulfill that adventure dream.
What are we looking for?
Exploration and adventure is the name of the game. We are looking at applicants from a wide range of areas including rock climbing, trekking, alpine climbing, extreme endurance pursuits, skiing, snowboarding, B.A.S.E jumping, kayaking and paragliding, just to name a few. But remember: we are not only looking for elite athletes, the grant is designed to assist everyday adventurers to step up and make their adventure aspirations a reality.
Applications for the 2012 grant are now open. Applications close on December 31st 2011.
How do you apply for the grant?
Please send us a proposal detailing your adventure and expedition plans for 2012. Include concise and relevant info on location, climate, geography, a team profile, objectives, dates, etc. Once the submission period closes, the grant will be awarded by a panel of The North Face and AG Outdoor experts.
Please send your grant submissions to:
adventuregrant@thenorthface.com.au
Or by mail to:
The North Face Adventure Grant 2012
The North Face
19 O'Riordan St
Alexandria 2015 NSW
For more info, please visit: http://www2.thenorthface.com.au/tnf_grant2012.php
FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT:
Stephen Winnacott
Marketing Manager – The North Face
T +61 (0) 2 8306 3249
M +61 (0) 410 442 432
Stephen.Winnacott@truealliance.com.au
www.truealliance.com.au
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Adventure News May 2002
