Mt Tutoko


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Meet your guide in Wanaka or Queenstown, check gear, drive to Milford Sound (4-5 hours) and fly into the mountains to Turners Bivvy in the afternoon.



Acclimatisation day, consolidate skills or ascend a practice peak.



Climb up above the bivvy and sidle around the Age Glacier. Climb up around rock buttress on steep snow and ice to Camp on the Southeast Ridge.



Summit day, start early (3-4am) and climb up the ridge to the summit. Descend to Turners Bivvy.



Contingency day, or alternative activity such as rock climbing.



Fly out from Turners Bivvy at additional cost or walk out to Milford. Head back to Wanaka/Queenstown via Te Anau.


The Southeast Ridge of Tutoko is accessed from Turners Bivvy and the route usually takes two days of climbing. We fly into Turners Bivvy from sea level at Milford Airport, and camp under a huge overhanging rock. A unique experience on its own!

From the bivvy we climb up near Turners Pass and camp high on the Southeast Ridge. From here an early start will see us at the first of three rock steps leading us to the summit. The final rock step has a crux of about 14 by New Zealand rock standards.

After the three rock steps it’s up moderate angled but exposed snow arêtes to the summit. Incredible views await, out to the nearby Tasman Sea and north to Mt Aspiring, Aoraki / Mt Cook and the rest of the Southern Alps.

Alternatively, if conditions permit we will fly into the Donne Glacier on the north side of the mountain. This is even more remote, but allows us to climb the more straightforward North Ridge of Tutoko. The climb is a day trip from our glacier camp on good rock up to NZ grade 14.

Both these routes are rewarding, technical climbs. The main requirements are being positive on your feet and having good endurance, as an ascent of Tutoko averages around 14 hours return.

We guide Mt Tutoko on a 1:1 client:guide ratio due to its technical nature.  


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