Mt Tutoko


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Meet your guide in Wanaka or Queenstown, check gear, drive to Milford Sound (4-5 hours) and afternoon walk or climb, stay at Homer Hut.



Morning flight into the Ngapunatoru Plateau. Acclimatisation day, consolidate skills or ascend a practice peak/or alternatively move camp closer to the NW Ridge. 



Traverse off the Plateau and around to the base of the NW ridge. Tent Camp. 



Summit day, start early (3-4am) and climb up the ridge to the summit. Descend back to the tent camp.



Contingency day, or alternative activity such as rock climbing.



Fly out from Ngapunatoru Plateau. Head back to Wanaka/Queenstown via Te Anau.


The Northwest Ridge of Tutoko is accessed from the Ngapunatoru Plateau and the route usually takes a full day of climbing from a tent camp. We fly into Ngapunatoru Plateau from sea level at Milford Airport. Camping on the edge of the huge plateau is a unique experience on its own!

From the tent camp, we traverse steep snow slopes to gain access to the ridge proper. Often a second camp is made here to allow for a full day on the ridge. The summit day is a mixture of scrambling and simple rock steps that lead to final summit headwall which has a crux of about AUS Grade 14/US 5.6, and leads directly to the summit. Incredible views await, out to the nearby Tasman Sea and north to Mt Aspiring, Aoraki / Mt Cook and the rest of the Southern Alps.

Alternatively, if conditions permit we can fly into Turner’s Biv on the south side of the mountain. The Southeast Ridge route usually takes two days of climbing. We fly into Turners Bivvy from sea level at Milford Airport, and camp under a huge overhanging rock.

From the bivvy we climb up near Turners Pass and camp high on the Southeast Ridge. From here an early start will see us at the first of three rock steps leading us to the summit. The final rock step has a crux of about AUS Grade 14/US 5.6.

After the three rock steps it’s up moderate angled but exposed snow arêtes to the summit

Both these routes are rewarding, technical climbs. The main requirements are being positive on your feet and having good endurance, as an ascent of Tutoko averages around 14 hours return.

We guide Mt Tutoko on a 1:1 client:guide ratio due to its technical nature.


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