Mt Tasman / Horo Koau


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Meet your guide in Wanaka and check gear. We then drive to Fox Glacier township where we fly to Pioneer Hut in the afternoon.



Acclimatisation day, consolidate skills or ascend a practice peak.



Summit day, start 1am, and return about 7pm. OR, climb part of the route to then bivvy out overnight.



Second day of climb (or rest day if climb completed in one day).



Weather contingency day or climb another peak.



Weather contingency day or climb another peak. Fly out and return to Wanaka.


 The route up Mt Tasman

We guide Mt Tasman on a 1:1 ratio due to the demands of the terrain.

Analysing the current status of weather and snow conditions, we aim to make the ascent when all the conditions are most favourable.

The usual guiding route for this ascent sees us traverse across the Albert Glacier nevé from Pioneer Hut followed by a climb up to the ‘airy’ Marcel Col. Our route takes us up and over the 3194m Lendenfield Peak followed by a traverse of Engineer Col. From here we commence the ascent of the steep and exposed North Shoulder of Mt Tasman. The ridge traverse from the top of the North Shoulder to the summit rates highly as a sublime mountaineering experience! Subject to conditions, fitness and travel time, a bivouac is sometimes required to complete an ascent of this mountain.


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