September 2003
Greetings from AC headquarters!
With such a huge network of climbers, guides and friends in the Adventure Consultants family throughout the world, it's great that we are able to keep in regular contact through email and the AC websites. As always it's been a busy winter here in New Zealand preparing for our upcoming trips, and for the first time at AC we had three expeditions on three different continents operating at the same time in June (Denali in Alaska / Ecuador Volcanoes / Gasherbrum I & II in Pakistan). Still, here at the office we've all had time to get out and sample the fantastic return to mid-winter conditions on our local skifields, ensuring the life gets lived!
In this issue we bring you news of how some of our recent trips went, exciting opportunities coming up, the situation in Nepal and the sad loss of our dear friend and AC guide Will MacQueen.
Until next time, safe and happy climbing,
Suze Kelly
AC Business Manager
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We would be pleased to include them in our next issue.
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Elbrus Expedition 2003
Our AC Elbrus trip led by Guy Cotter was a huge success with all members of the team summitting after climbing through a pristine Russian dawn. Inclement weather the previous day diminished to a cold and clear dawn allowing the team to reach the top on the first of the planned summit days. The group left the Barrels Hut at 5.45am and were on the summit at 11.00am. The usual afternoon whiteout came in soon after the team began the descent with the team navigating back to the Barrels by 2.00pm.
The trip initiated in Moscow, one of the great European cities with a strong culture and fabulous restaurant and night life. Expedition members stayed in the Russia Hotel overlooking St Basils Cathedral, Red Square and the Kremlin. Being positioned in downtown Moscow the group had easy access to many interesting cultural activities, a highlight being the markets at Gorky Park with a huge array of beautiful oil paintings that would make any gallery proud.
We are accepting application to join our Elbrus 2004 expeditoin, so if you have seven summit aspirations or want to experience Russias unique culture and high altitude climbing then sign up now!
Ice climbing Courses
The New Zealand Ice Climbing Courses were led by mountain guides Dave Langrish and Tim Robinson in the Mt Alta/Wye Creek area. The courses, which are run from Queenstown, were completed with good ice conditions in what was otherwise a season with little ice. The feedback from course participants has reflected the efforts put in by Dave and Tim to introduce solid ice climbing skills. With such an increase in capable ice climbers, ice screw sales should go through the roof!
Gasherbrum 1&2 Expedition
Just as the members of the Gasherbrum 1&2 expedition were in a position to make summit attempts, bad weather thwarted any serious summit bid. The inclement weather was caused by fronts breaking away from the monsoon over southern Pakistan that caused massive flooding in the lowlands while the team was high on the mountain. Continuing bad weather demolished any chance of further attempts, but the dispatches from the expedition make great reading, with many insights into why climbers choose to go high.
Maoist uprising in Nepal
News just to hand is of a resurgence of the Maoist movement in Nepal. According to sources in Kathmandu, there have been several uprisings and consequent killings along with strikes imposed by the Maoist movement. The military has imposed curfews in Kathmandu and there has been an upsurge in military presence within the tourist sector of Thamel. Over recent months the ceasefire between the government and the Maoists had indicated a peaceful resolution to their differences but it is suspected that the problems have resurfaced due to ongoing corruption by government officials who were paying lip service to the ceasefire. The Maoists have always maintained that they do not wish to disturb tourist activity and that they value the income the industry produces. The areas least affected are the Khumbu/Everest region and the Annapurna district. Over the three years of strong Maoist activity, general tourism revenue has dropped by 50% but has recently swung back by 15% after the ceasefire was announced. Interestingly though, mountaineering revenue has increased by some 30% during this same period, in part due to factors such as the millennium and the celebrations for the golden jubilee of the first ascent of Everest.
Goodbye Will
Sadly, our good friend and fellow guide, Will MacQueen, died on August 12th this winter in New Zealand. A crevasse lid collapsed under him while he was ski touring on the Fox Glacier. Will has worked on many AC trips over the last few years and shared his time between mountain guiding and as an instructor for the Mountain Recreation Course at the Otago Polytechnic based in Wanaka. Will was a very highly respected mountain guide and kayaker, having recently achieved IFMGA International Mountain and Ski Guide status and he was once a member of the New Zealand team at the world kayaking championships. Everybody who knew Will respected his warmth and integrity and he will be missed as a close friend and highly valued member of the AC team.
Cho Oyu Expedition underway
The 2003 AC Cho Oyu expedition is now underway. The team flew three days ago from Kathmandu to Lhasa at 3600m on the Tibetan high plains on the first stage of their journey. Presently the team is taking in the sights of the ancient city and doing some passive acclimatisation by exploring. A highlight for the team yesterday was a visit to the Potala Palace, former home of the 14 Dali Lamas and religious leaders of Tibet. The group depart today for the ancient town of Shigatse and they are expected to reach the climbing base camp on September 10. For detailed updates of the expedition, including voice dispatches take look at our dispatch page regularly throughout the expedition.
Ama Dablam expedition set to go
Soon after the Cho Oyu expedition is completed the Ama Dablam group will congregate in Kathmandu for our annual post monsoon expedition. This exciting climb is being led by 3 x Everest veteran, Luis Benitez and he will be assisted by Steve Moffat from New Zealand. AC cameraman, Hamish Emerson, will be filming the expedition and members can buy a copy from him as a memento after the climb. The expedition is now full, but do inquire about next year's expedition if you are interested.
Vinson Massif possibly the last chance?
Many of you will be aware that ANI, the aircraft carrier who supplies aircraft access to Antarctica and Vinson Massif, is no longer operating. ANI have suspended operations for this coming season and it is possible that they may decide to not restart their operation in future.
An alternative aircraft operator is available for this coming season, but it is not yet certain that they will offer this service in future years. Consequently, it is unsure whether we will be able to offer Vinson Massif trips in future so we urge anyone who is considering this expedition to make every effort to sign up for this seasons departure. Dates for this are 28 November to 13 December.
Instruction Manual for Sale
AC Director and Chief Guide, Guy Cotter, along with fellow guide Mark Sedon have written a new publication entitled; 'A Climber's Guide to New Zealand Mountaineering Techniques'
The publication details a range of climbing techniques and skills, and is supported by illustrations from local climber - Bruce Dowrick. This informative technical skills reference guide is valuable reading prior to an instruction course, or to refresh existing skills. The price is NZ$25.00 plus post & packaging. Contact us to order a copy or download the order form (a pdf file) and fax or post back to us.
 | Guide book order form Adobe Acrobat Document: 103 KB, 15 seconds @ 56kbps |
