Adventure Newsletter - November 20 2009
If you’re like me, you probably find yourself daydreaming about adventures you really want to do some time in the future. Some of those envisioned plans are short events such as a rock climb that you really want to have a go at on the local crag, whilst others are rather substantial multi week (or month) sojourns into the wildest, highest and most remote wilderness with unknown outcomes. On sifting though the various options and calculating the pros and cons and fun-vs-pain-vs-rewards matrix, I settle on a game plan and start to put it into effect.
We all have dreams where we conceptualise, and then formulate, our ambitions. However, the difference between those who dream – and do - and those that never get past the dreaming part, is that one group lives a life that is enhanced and nourished by delving off into unknown territory and the associated adventures, while the other group just dreams.
So if you’re thinking about getting out for a training run, or perhaps sailing around the world or signing up for that expedition you’ve always dreamed about, then all you gotta do is - just do it! It really is very simple, but if you put it off now, you’ll never get around to doing it. Trust me, I know, I’ve been dreaming about tidying my desk for ages, but heck, it’ll have to wait because I really do have to get out to the crags to go climbing.
Guy Cotter
Director, Adventure Consultants
IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide
NZ Summer Climbing Season underway
An exciting summer of climbing is about to start with our New Zealand summer mountaineering programmes kicking off this week. Alpine Adventures, Mt Cook, Mt Tasman and Mt Aspiring ascents, Alpine Expedition Courses and LOTS of private instruction courses and tailored trips. We are excited by the level of upcoming activity and our guides and office staff alike are really looking forward to meeting those of you who are passing though our office on the way into the mountains. The guides have completed the AC annual staff training program that is focused on bringing the crew up to speed for the transition from winter to summer. Heading the guide team this year is newly appointed New Zealand Chief Guide - Dean Staples. Dean has an impressive resume and is at the top of his game in the international guiding arena. Dean has already been focusing on the AC guide development program that is unique in the industry for revision and skill development practices.
Cho Oyu results
Ugghh, every now and again the weather transpires against us and we cannot summit a mountain we are attempting. This year our Cho Oyu team made wonderful time on acclimatisation and everything was going according to plan – but then the jet stream dropped and didn’t leave again. Forecasts indicated winds in excess of 120mph for the remainder of the month and there was no point in staying on. Several times we’ve summited, when other teams haven’t, by working around the weather and making use of short windows, a necessary skill in New Zealand climbing! This time there wasn’t the option and we left dissapointed. Still, that’s mountaineering, and if there was always a guarantee of success, much of the challenge and adventure would be gone. Commiserations to our group who all handled it like adults – thanks team and we hope to see you again soon.
Read about their expedition at Cho Oyu 2009
Island Peak and Khumbu Trek just completed
On a brighter note, our Island Peak expedition has just arrived home, jubilant and enriched from the experience and with success. This trip was led by Ang Dorjee Sherpa in his incredibly capable and personable fashion. Well done to the team and many thanks Kathryn for your feedback of which this is but a snippet:
“AC plans their treks and expeditions with such professionalism there is no reason to question the schedule. I never doubted that we were in good hands. From the first phone call and e-mail to the follow-up feedback, you run a wonderful organization leaving me completely satisfied that the next trek/expedition I attempt will be with AC”.
We appreciate the appreciation for the efforts we go to!
Read about their expedition with Ang Dorjee at Island Peak 2009
Three Peaks Nepal about to commence, taking 2010 bookings now
An excited crew of climbers have departed Kathmandu on our Three Peaks Nepal expedition. They are presently on their way up the Khumbu valley en route to Island peak, the first of the trilogy of peaks on the 31 day program. If you are interested in seeing what they are up to you can live voyeuristically by clicking on the following link that is updated by the team - Three Peaks 09 Dispatches
The 3 Peaks expedition ascends three 6000m peaks in the Everest region – Island Peak, Lobuche East and Parchamo. This trip is being led by Gary Kuehn and assisted by Mike Madden. The expedition Sirdar (who is also our Sirdar on Everest) is Passang Tenzing Sherpa. As the 3 Peaks expedition is one of our most popular trips we are already receiving bookings for next year so please get in touch if you are thinking of joining.
Dates in 2010 are Trip #1: October 6 - November 5
Trip #2: November 10 - December 10.
Everest 2010
Planning is well underway for Everest next year with a solid team preparing for the great adventure. AC’s most prolific guide, Mike Roberts, will be leading the trip alongside Ang Dorjee Sherpa whose experience should extend to him standing on the summit for his 14th time. Would you like to be up there with them? If so, sign up for one of the remaining spaces while you can. By joining the AC Everest team you get many advantages over what other operators are providing. Check out details on our page: Why climb with AC on Everest
Camp 2 Everest 2010
Possibly one of the most memorable moments in a Himalayan climbers life comes at the time when you are walking up Everest’s western CWM, and you know that any time soon you will actually get to see Mt Everest’s imposing SW face up close. Until now only the tip of the peak has been in view and you have to climb the Khumbu icefall, stay at Camp 1 to acclimatise, then trek up the glacier half way to Camp 2 to see it. If you are well disciplined you’ll keep your eyes averted until you have walked far enough to look up and … well, instead of us saying how incredible it is, perhaps you’d better come look for yourself!
This coming season we are offering an Everest camp 2 excursion. Join the summit expedition members in the early stages of the trip and get a feel for what climbing on the 'big E’ is really about! Instruction on techniques for making the climb up to Camp 2 is practiced at basecamp prior to the climb. It’s no easy trek up the imposing Khumbu icefall and good rope skills and basic climbing skills are required. However, fit and capable people are ideal contenders to get the most out of this journey. It’s a 30 day trip, ex Kathmandu, and one of the most outrageous excursions anywhere. Check out the details at Camp 2 Everest 2010.
Aconcagua Nov, Dec, Jan
The season is about to begin on Aconcagua with our first team about to embark on the climb at the end of this month. Instead of merely climbing up the mountain then coming straight back down again, our expeditions feature a traverse up one side of the mountain and down the other. This allows more scope for seeing the mountain in its entirety and you only briefly pass through the more commercial side of the mountain on the way out - when beers and burgers have more appeal! Our itinerary has been specially developed to allow the maximum timeframe for a proper acclimatisation process, thereby giving you the best chance of success on the mountain. Should you want assistance with load carrying, you can ‘add on’ porter support to relieve the load. Talk to us about how to arrange that.
The AC groups will be capably led by our South American specialist guide - Matias Prieto. Matias has many years of experience on Aconcagua and other peaks throughout the continent with multiple ascents to his name. He’s very personable and willing to assist you in your quest to climb this high peak and you can glean a considerable amount of knowledge from him for future high altitude endeavours. There are still some places available on the December 30 and January 29 departures - so there’s still time to make the call!
Read their Aconcagua 2009-10 dispatch page
Vinson 09/10
A trip to Vinson Massif is an attractive but extremely remote expedition into the interior of our least populated continent. This year our teams are departing Punta Arenas in late December. Look for updates on the trip on our dispatches page through early January.
European Courses and Ascents 2009
There’s no denying that the Alps is one of the worlds best venues for getting immediate access to some of the best alpine climbing on Earth. Be it long alpine snow and ice routes or multi-pitch rock climbing on compact granite, you can get a considerable amount achieved in a short timeframe.
Our 2009 summer season in the Alps was particularly successful with many ascents having been achieved. It was heartening to see people enjoying the multitude of high quality alpine climbing routes as well as the ‘Big Three’; Mont Blanc, the Eiger and the Matterhorn.
New European courses for 2010:
In 2010 we are offering a series of set date courses throughout the entire season from mid July through to mid September. These will consist of 6 day Mt Blanc course and 5 or 6 day Alpine Skills and introductory, intermediate and advanced Mountaineering Instruction courses. Following are details of the Mont Blanc course and Private Guiding options and we will follow up shortly to announce the details of our Chamonix based Alpine Skills and Mountaineering Instruction Courses.
6 day Mt Blanc Course / Ascent
Partake in an introductory course and climb the highest peak in Western Europe in the same
The courses are run in the Chamonix and Torino alpine regions and you will make the ascent of Mt Blanc via either the Goutier or Cosmiques routes depending on conditions.
This is an excellent introduction to climbing so get on it!
Private Guiding
Whether you are new to climbing, or are a seasoned ascensionist, you can book a guide for 1:1 guided climbing or personalised tuition.
Our seasoned experts are focused on you getting a huge amount of climbing during your time with them and you can elect to do a multitude of lesser routes or build up to complete a major climb. Perhaps you may want to spend some time developing specific skills such as alpine rock or multi pitch ice routes, or even a mix of tuition and guided ascents. Either way, you dictate the terms of your program. A popular choice for some is to complete the 6 day Mt Blanc Course/Ascent and follow on with 4-5 days private guiding on harder routes.
During your time with the guide, whether it is 5 days, a week, or more, you can acclimatise on lower routes and finish off with an ascent of Mt Blanc or one of the other high peaks. The Matterhorn and Eiger are more difficult climbs suitable for experienced climbers and ascents of these iconic peaks can also be factored into a multiday program. Call us to discuss options to formulate a stimulating and challenging program to suit your timing and aspirations and read more about these trips at European Ascents.
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Mt Aspiring Ascent Centenary Celebrations
On November 23,1909 Major Bernard Head, Jack Clarke and Alec Graham made the first ascent of Mt Aspiring/ Tititea in New Zealand via the West Face from a camp high on a ridge above the West Matukituki Valley.
The ascent was the culmination of 52 years of speculation and intrigue by alpinists, who'd became fascinated with the mountain after it was first surveyed by JT Thompson in 1857. To celebrate the original ascent, the New Zealand Alpine Club in conjunction with the Department of Conservation, Wanaka, is hosting a celebration on the evening of November 28th, 2009 at the Lake Wanaka Centre, Wanaka.
More details on the New Zealand Alpine Club website.
Adventure News May 2002
