Adventure News - 20 August 2009
It’s been an exciting year for us with so many interesting expeditions being completed in fine style. We’ve had strong bookings over the last few months and it has been heartening to see people embarking on the more distant and remote peaks such as Carstensz in Indonesia and Alpamayo in Peru.
I think it’s fair to say that in harder times people tend to prioritise that which is important to them in life and it’s possibly because they recognise that if they don’t do it now - the opportunity may well slip away. (On that note - I’m going climbing in Europe for a few weeks in September - yahoo!)
With our post-monsoon season about to begin there is much abuzz in our New Zealand HQ as we prepare for these trips. We’ve also enjoyed a really positive response since the launch of our European Alps ascents and course programmes that I feel are successful because of the high calibre of guides working with us there.
It’s gratifying to see that even in difficult times people still enjoy the level of care we put into every trip we run and appreciate that we focus on our people rather than ‘process’ them as many other operators do. So I extend a big thanks to those who keep coming back for more adventures with us!
In this newsletter you’ll find news of our recent and upcoming trips as well as some training tips. You’ll also find the Guide Goss section were we let you know what the team have been doing and what they’re are up to next.
I wish you all the best for your future endeavours so keep climbing, and if you can’t do that then keep training so you will enjoy it more when you do!
Guy Cotter
Director, Adventure Consultants
Elbrus success!
Mike Roberts led both our scheduled Elbrus trips through July/August. The first departure follows the slightly longer itinerary that takes in the cultural intrigue of St Petersburg and is highlighted by a visit to the world famous Hermitage. This museum and art gallery boasts the largest art collection in the world with nearly 3 million items! Once on the mountain Mike and the group spent several days acclimatising and gaining snowcraft skills before the summit day itself. After a 2.30am start the climbers donned their crampons and started up the slopes above the Pashtuckhova rocks. The morning was transformed by a dramatic sunrise and soon after Dale, Katherine and Peter reached the summit with Mike. A few days later Mike returned with the second group (on the shorter Moscow-Moscow departure) reaching the summit with Richard, David and Ed in fine weather. Swati, who was not well that morning, returned with Mike to the mountain the following evening, then summitted the next day. Well done to all!
Alpamayo Success!
A hearty congratulations to Anne David and John Madden for climbing the steep and technical SW face of Alpamayo in Peru. After departing high camp at 1.00am on July 20, AC guides Andrew Wexler and Wilder Alvarado led the nine steep pitches to the summit in very good conditions topping out at 6.00am and returning all the way back to Basecamp in the same day.
Carstensz
All eight climbers on our Carstensz Aug 09 expedition have just topped out, on 19 August at 9.40am. Congratulations to Pierre, Tony, Suzanna, Leo, Russell, Damian, Johnny and David for their successful summit. Our next Carstensz expeditions are November 2 - 21 2009, January 15 - February 3 2010 and March 15 - April 3, 2010.
European ascents and courses
With only a few more weeks left in the European Alps season we’ve enjoyed seeing some private courses being run in addition to spectacular ascents being achieved. Guides Victor Saunders and Paolo Pieroni have been especially busy throughout the season. We lost count of the number of ascents they made with Ashley Alder from Hong Kong, at last count I figure Ashley had climbed 15 routes!
Ice climbing courses
With spectacular ice formations this season due to cold weather in June and July in New Zealand there was a lot of fun to be had on the ice climbing courses this winter. Running annually in July/August we have just finished our final course for the season. Plan a week next winter to upskill yourself with techniques you can take to all your future alpine adventures.
Ski Mountaineering courses
The focus here is learning self sufficiency that enables you to safely tour in glaciated terrain and know how to look after yourself when skiing the steep shots! There is still space on the 5 day SMC # 3 (September 7-11) being run by Anna Keeling and Steve Moffat and also spaces on the 7 day SMC # 4 (September 21-27).
Climb Vinson at New Year
There are two spaces available on the December 27 to January 11 departure to Vinson Massif in Antarctica this coming season. If you’re quick you may still get to join up.
Aconcagua
You’ll find our guides achieve a higher success rate for their groups than any other operator. This is because of their ability to help you learn the skills and techniques that are required to cope with high altitude and the fact that they care about your wellbeing.
Our Aconcagua expedition season is all set to go with the November 29 to December 21 trip being led by Mark Morrison. Ang Dorjee Sherpa will lead the Dec 30 to January 21 trip and David Marchi will be running the Jan 29 to Feb 20 departure. Whilst positions are available for all these trips at present you may be disappointed if you delay your booking too long. Call today!
Island Peak / Khumbu trek
Running in mid October, this expedition to ‘your first Himalayan peak’ has a few spaces left and it’s ideal for having your friends or family join up alongside to partake in the Khumbu trek with the same program apart for the summit climbing days. Visit Everest base camp and Kala Patar on this same journey and top it off with a climb of the 6000m Island Peak! Ang Dorjee Sherpa will lead the trip, and whilst he is permanently based in the USA these days, this is his homeland and his insight to the region and its folklore is priceless.
3 Peaks
This popular trip is running in November and pretty well full with only one space left on Three Peaks Nepal 2009. Being run by Gary Kuehn and Mike Madden it should prove to be a fun time. The expedition Sirdar is Passang Tenzing Sherpa who is our Climbing Sirdar on Everest so there’s plenty of experience on this great adventure.
New Zealand ascents and courses
Our instruction courses are again proving popular with people getting in early to secure positions so please don’t delay if you are thinking of joining up. Our experienced team of companionable guides is already looking forward to summer and motivated to get you onto our pristine alpine peaks.
Everest 2010
Our past clients all say that one of the main benefits they get climbing Everest with AC is the small team size. After all, who wants to queue for meals, or have to wait until your first three teams have summitted before you even have a chance to use the tents at south col. Yes, our members enjoy our expeditions because we have the highest ratio of guides and Sherpas to members and the best food, medical support and equipment supplies on the mountain. Combine that with our unrivaled experience and the fact we chose the best weather in the season for our one team then you can’t really improve upon that.
We are accepting applications for the spring 2010 expedition now so if you’d like to join please let us know – numbers are limited!
Mongolia Mt Khuiten
In July 2010 we are planning an expedition to climb Mt Khuiten in the far west of Mongolia! Lydia Bradey, the first woman to summit Everest without oxygen, has led many previous trips to this peak and she will lead our expedition there next year. Dates and logistics are being worked on at present - register your interest with us if a journey to a particularly spectacular and remote part of the planet appeals for 2010.
Guide Goss
Mike Roberts has been busy in Europe guiding around the Chamonix region as have Victor Saunders and Paolo Pieroni. Mike is soon off to Cho Oyu with Mark Sedon who will be leading the expedition. Mark has taken a winter out of the office to heliski and instruct avalanche courses. Paul Rogers, Dean Staples and Lydia Bradey have been guiding in Canada and will soon be back on NZ soil. Paul will return to Antarctica for the summer. Gary Kuehn has been ski touring in Japan and is now doing the same back in New Zealand before he heads off to lead the AC 3 Peaks trip in November. Ang Dorjee Sherpa has been guiding on Rainer and will be leading our Island Peak trip in October. Mark Morrison has been putting the finishing touches to his house and trying to decide whether to paint the spare room blue or pink before leading our first Aconcagua trip in November. Not that long back from running a private 3 peaks program in Nepal Steve Moffat will be ski touring then doing some more NZ based trips. He’s been enjoying the avalanche control work at our local ski hill where he gets to throw lots of explosives, helping patrolman Calum Grant do his job. Mark Austin-Cheval has recovered sufficiently from an ankle injury to run a ski touring trip and already knows what colour to paint the spare room. David Hamilton is on Carstensz and probably looking forward to a rest after climbing Everest followed by a G2 expedition and now jungle bashing in Indonesia. Mike Madden has been ensconced in Wye Creek running the ice climbing program and will also be heading off to the 3 Peaks expedition later on, he was on Denali during May. Andy Taylor (Frog) had someone else paint the spare room (yes, an epidemic it seems!) and is heliski guiding, Andrew Wexler is home after Alpamayo and will soon be running some training programs in Canada. David Marchi guided a private Kili trip as well as a season on Mt Shasta, plus moving house as another spare room required is required here also! Paul Aubrey has been busy running snow safety at Cardrona ski resort and Tim Robertson has been heliskiing at Mt Cook. Tibor Hromadka will return to NZ after New Year and Guy Cotter has been busy rehabilitating at the gym and will be in the Alps and on Elbrus in September.
Training to increase lung capacity
No matter what training routine you follow it is always desirable to train to increase your lung capacity. A really good place to do this is in the pool. It doesn’t matter whether you are a regular fish or a sinker, we can all increase our lung capacity to increase our performance. This is going to pay dividends at altitude and aid the acclimatisation process. Why? Because we are putting our lungs under pressure through this training and they will become more effective in the uptake of O2.
How? During a swim training session do some ‘blocks’ where you focus on your breathing. Check how often do you breathe? It is fairly standard in swimming to breathe every 3rd stroke on alternate sides. To increase our lung capacity we train ourselves to swim longer with less breaths. Start your first lap on your regular pattern, let’s say every 3rd breath. On your second lap breathe every 5th stroke. Do the return lap every 3rd, then back to every 5th. Keep going until you are struggling for air and push yourself until you have to stop. Rest and let your pulse and breathing rate return to normal. Once this becomes easy, increase the number of strokes until you are being pushed again. Play around with the blocks, begin with a breath once every 9 strokes for as many laps as you can do without having to stop, then drop it back (so you can just handle it) and do as many lengths as you can in oxygen debt but without stressing yourself too much. This is a very good way to learn to control your breathing and activity rate in preparation for altitude. On top of that, swimming can be one of the most accessible activities for those who cannot easily escape the city for hill training. Swimming also enhances your aerobic fitness and reduces the chance for injury. Add it to your program and you’ll notice the benefits almost immediately.
Adventure News May 2002
