Mont Blanc

ITINERARY


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Day

 

 

0

Arrive Chamonix, hotel night.

 

1

 

 

 

 

2

Early morning briefing and gear check, then drive 1.5 hr to Gran Paradiso National Park. 3 hr trek up to Vittorio Emmanuele Hut (2735m).

 

Glacier skills refresher in morning. 5-6 hr Climb of Gran Paradiso (4061m) by the west flank. Descend to the hut, then to the valley and return to Chamonix. Hotel night.

 

 

 

3

 

Take the Bellevue lift and Mont Blanc Tramway lift (2380m), and hike up to Tete Rousse Hut (3187m, 4 hrs), or take the Aiguille du Midi lift and trek to Cosmiques Hut 3613m (1 hr).  The route selection will be done by your guide and our team, according to the conditions and season.
 

4

 

Very early start for the climb of Mont Blanc (7-8hrs) and descend to Gouter or Tete Rousse Huts, or return to Cosmiques Hut (4 to 5 hrs). It is possible to descend all the way to Chamonix depending on the length of the climbing day.
 

5

 

Descend to Les Houches and Chamonix. Possible rock climbing.
Debrief. Hotel night.
 

6

 

Depart Chamonix.

THE CLIMBING ROUTES

We approach Mont Blanc from either the North West via the Goûter Route or the North via the Cosmiques Route. The Cosmiques Route traverse's the lesser peaks of Mt Blanc du Tacul and Mt Maudit on the way to the summit. The choice of which route taken will depend on group size and snow and weather conditions at the time.

On the Goûter Route we begin the approach by tram and railway, then walk up to either the Tête Rousse Hut in about 4 hours. The summit day begins early and the climb takes around 7-8 hours over snow domes and a superb snow ridge to the summit.

The Cosmiques Route is slightly more difficult and therefore guided only on a 1:1 basis. This route takes around 6-7 hours to the summit from the Cosmiques Hut and features snow basins followed by some short steeper sections, as you ascend the peaks of the Tacul and the Maudit. After the Maudit is passed, you climb a large snow dome to Mont Blanc’s summit, the highest point in the Alps.

As a warm up for Mont Blanc, we climb Italy’s highest (non-frontier) peak, Gran Paradiso at 13,323ft/4,061m. Gran Paradiso is a very good climb in its own right and is very valuable as an acclimatisation ascent before you move on to climb Mont Blanc  While Gran Paradiso is often an expedition in itself, we combine the two peaks on the same trip so you get twice the value!

During the acclimatisation phase on Gran Paradiso you will sleep in a high-mountain hut at sufficient elevations to promote acclimatisation. We then return to Chamonix to complete the ascent of Mont Blanc.

ABOUT THE ASCENT

You start the trip in Chamonix where you will be taken by your shuttle driver to your accommodation. The following morning you will be met by your guide, who will brief you on the upcoming journey and help you sort equipment for the trip.

Then you will make the short trip by road through to Italy and hike the 3-hour trail up to a high hut on the flanks of Gran Paradiso. Gran Paradiso is a short drive from Chamonix and is situated above the Aosta Valley in Italy, with fabulous views across to the Mont Blanc Massif.

You will stay in either the  Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele Hut at 2,735m or the Rifugio Chabod Hut at 2,750m. We ascend well-formed trails to get to these huts and the hike serves as a good warm-up hike of 800-900 m depending on which trail we use. The ascent route from both huts converge after a short while, as you follow easy-angled moraines and then glaciers to finish on an exposed but reasonably low angled rock ridge to the summit.

An ascent to altitude is vital as preparation for attempting Mont Blanc as it gives us a decent level of acclimatisation. Technically speaking, Mont Blanc is not especially difficult but it is very physically demanding and requires a good level of fitness.

We operate the Mont Blanc Guided Ascent on a ratio of one guide to one or two climbers. This means you can come by yourself or bring a friend for the 1:2 guided ascent.

You benefit from the higher degree of personal tuition from your guide and your skills will be accelerated because of this. If you are a seasoned climber and want to attempt a more technical training climb prior to the Mont Blanc ascent then please enquire at the booking stage for other options.

NOTE: The programme can change due to weather and climbing conditions and alternative options to climbing these routes on Mont Blanc will be offered should conditions be unsuitable for your climbing Mont Blanc.

 

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