Mont Blanc

ITINERARY


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Day

 

 

0

Arrive Chamonix, hotel night.

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

Meet your guide for an early morning briefing and gear check. Either take the Aiguille du Midi and Le Panoramique lifts or travel through the Mont Blanc tunnel and ascend via the Skyway Monte Bianco to Point Hellbronner (3,462m/11,358ft). Traverse of the Aiguilles Marbrées (3,535m/11,598ft) and overnight at the Torino Hut (3,375m/11,073ft).

 

Hike across the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi OR make a return trip to the Cirque Maudit then return via the Panoramique lift or head back down the Skyway Monte Bianco and descend to Chamonix for the night.

 

 

 

3

 

Take the Bellevue lift and Mont Blanc Tramway lift (2380m), and hike up to Tête Rousse Hut (3187m, 4 hrs), or take the Aiguille du Midi lift and trek to Cosmiques Hut 3613m (1 hr).  The route selection will be done by your guide and our team, according to the conditions and season.

4

 

Very early start for the climb of Mont Blanc (4,807m/15,771ft - 8 hrs from Tête Rousse, 7 hrs from Cosmiques) and descend to Goûter (3,863m) or Tête Rousse Huts (3,187m), or return to Cosmiques Hut (4 to 5 hrs). Sometimes it will be possible to descend to Chamonix the same day.

5

 

Descend to Les Houches and Chamonix. Possible rock climbing.
Debrief. Hotel night.

6

 

Depart Chamonix.

THE CLIMBING ROUTES

We approach Mont Blanc from either the North West via the Goûter Route or the North via the Cosmiques Route. The Cosmiques Route traverse's the lesser peaks of Mt Blanc du Tacul and Mt Maudit on the way to the summit. The choice of which route taken will depend on group size and snow and weather conditions at the time.

On the Goûter Route we begin the approach by tram and railway, then walk up to either the Tête Rousse Hut in about 4 hours. The summit day begins early and the climb takes around 7-8 hours over snow domes and a superb snow ridge to the summit.

The Cosmiques Route is slightly more difficult and therefore guided only on a 1:1 basis. This route takes around 6-7 hours to the summit from the Cosmiques Hut and features snow basins followed by some short steeper sections, as you ascend the peaks of the Tacul and the Maudit. After the Maudit is passed, you climb a large snow dome to Mont Blanc’s summit, the highest point in the Alps.

As a warm-up for Mont Blanc, we climb a peak on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc range, Aguille Marbrée. Aguille Marbrée is a very good climb, in its own right and is very valuable as an acclimatisation ascent before you move on to climb Mont Blanc.  While Aguille Marbrée is often an expedition in itself, we combine the two peaks on the same trip so you get twice the value!

During the acclimatisation phase, you will sleep in a high-mountain hut at sufficient elevations to promote acclimatisation. We then return to Chamonix to complete the ascent of Mont Blanc.

ABOUT THE ASCENT

You start the trip in Chamonix where you will be taken by your shuttle driver to your accommodation on arrival. You will be met in the morning by your guide who will brief you on the upcoming journey and help you sort equipment for the trip.  
 
You will then make the short trip by road through to Italy and take the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car lift up to Torino Hut, or we can access the same hut and climb by using the Aguille du Midi and Panormique lifts to Point Helbronner.  
 
The ascent route on Aguille Marbrées is a particularly good training climb, usually climbing up the East Ridge and descending the South Ridge. There is also time during the two acclimatisation days to refresh your mountaineering skills on any topic, which you can discuss with your guide, while you are gaining the acclimatising advantage of sleeping for two nights at altitude at Torino hut at 3,375m.    
 
An ascent to altitude is vital as preparation for attempting Mont Blanc as it gives us a decent level of acclimatisation. Technically speaking, Mont Blanc is not especially difficult but it is very physically demanding due to the altitude and the length of the summit day, and thus requires a good level of fitness.  
 
Trips can be booked at a date that best suits your travel plans, and the route can be guided on with one guide to one or two climbers.  This means you can come by yourself or bring a friend for the 1:2 guided ascent.  Please note we avoid putting climbers together for the 1:2 trip who do not know each other as this can reduce your chances of a successful ascent when one out of the two has to turn back due to fitness or incompatibility issues. With these small ratios, you benefit from the higher degree of personal tuition from your guide and your skills will be accelerated because of this. If you are a seasoned climber and want to attempt a more technical training climb prior to the Mont Blanc ascent, then please enquire at the booking stage for other options.  
 
NOTE: The programme can change due to weather and climbing conditions.

 

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