Manaslu


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ITINERARY

Day

 1

 

Arrive Kathmandu

 

2

 

Kathmandu prep

 

3

 

Fly to Samagoan

 

4-7

 

Acclimatisation hikes

 

8

 

Trek from Samagaon to Manaslu Base Camp

 

9-11

 

Base Camp preparation and acclimatisation

 

12-24

 

Establish high camps and acclimatise

 

25-36

 

Summit climb and descend to Base Camp

 

37

 

Descend to Samagaon

 

38-40

 

Contingency days

 

41

 

Fly to Kathmandu

 

42

 

Depart Kathmandu

KATHMANDU TO MANASLU BASE CAMP

The expedition commences from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Here you will meet your guide and the other team members for an expedition briefing where you will be informed of the expedition plans from this point.  Your guide will conduct a gear check and you can finalise the packing of your climbing duffel that will go ahead for transport to Base Camp.

We fly from Kathmandu by helicopter to Samagaon, a small village below Manaslu, which is at an altitude of 3500m/11483ft. Samagaon is inhabited by people of Tibetan origin who live much as they did in centuries gone by; subsisting on Yak farming and agriculture. A large monastery (or Gompa) is situated overlooking the village. It is an active monastery whose Lamas are ordained through succession meaning that when a Lama dies, the oldest son becomes the next Lama in the chain.  We base ourselves at a lodge in the village utilising the trails on the hillsides and trekking routes around the mountain to develop our acclimatisation for four nights. Having taken the time to adjust to the new elevation we then move up to Base Camp at 4800m/15,748ft.

THE ROUTE

Over three weeks we establish four camps on the mountain and aim to summit in mid May.

The route up to Camp 1 involves climbing over grassy slopes, rock slabs and moraine, followed by a crevassed glacier with occasional small ice steps to Camp 1 at 5500m/18,040ft. During seasons with more snowfall there may be snow around Base Camp and below. Views of the surrounding peaks will add reference to the uphill climb and the team will enjoy seeing more of the upper part of the mountain, as high as Camp 4, from the trail to Camp 1.

The route to Camp 2, at 6,250m/20,500ft, is considered the technical crux of the climb with fixed ropes for security on the steeper parts. The terrain features long 40 degree snow slopes with a few vertical ice steps where brief sections of front-point cramponing is required with the aid of fixed ropes.

Above Camp 2 the slopes ease off with fixed ropes on intermittent steep sections but in general the route to Camp 3 (6,800m/22,300ft) is relatively straightforward. Acclimatised climbers can complete this leg in approximately 3-4 hours.

From Camp 3 there is 550m/1800ft of strenuous climbing to Camp 4 at 7,450m/24,440ft. A well deserved rest and rehydration will greatly increase your enthusiasm for a summit bid early the following morning when you set out for the climb.

Summit day will start well before dawn and the climb should take about 6-7 hrs. The climbing is not technical in the early part as we ascend through several basins with short headwalls connecting them. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge through to the true summit for an unforgettable vista. Our strong guide and Sherpa team will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group on what will be a memorable day with the objective to reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world!

We descend to Base Camp the day after summiting for a well-earned celebration. A day is spent packing up Base Camp then we drop down to Samagaon to meet our flight back to Kathmandu.

 

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