Lhotse

  • Difficulty: 3 Scrambling on low angled terrain of a low technical nature, on snow or rock. Ropes may occasionally be used. Climbers do not need previous experience but do need an ability to move over rough ground. Short steep sections that will require a rope. Basic snow/ice/rock climbing. We recommend that climbers are familiar with ice axe and crampon techniques and/or basic rock climbing techniques although this can often be taught during the trip. Steep terrain that requires moderate level climbing skills on snow/ice/rock. Emphasis on good cramponing skills. Will need experience with rope techniques including rappelling/abseiling and snow camping techniques. Extensive steep terrain. Climber to be capable of following multi pitch climbs and have rope management skills, belay techniques, climbing calls, rappelling/abseiling skills and alpine bivouac and snow camping techniques. Extreme terrain. Climber will have extensive experience on rock or ice and a complete understanding of anchors and protection techniques and a high degree of comfort following longer difficult sections of ice and/or rock in alpine gear with a pack.

    Fitness: C A level of fitness sufficient to carry a light pack (10kg/22lb) and be capable of moving for several hours at a stretch with short stops every hour. Training would include regular walking on hills and gym work to develop strength: light running, swimming and biking. Defined as one who exercises regularly although not necessarily to a really high level, capable of carrying a pack weighing 18kg/40lb for several hours. Regular cardiovascular exercise (3-4 times a week gym/bike/stairs) and include pack carrying on rough ground once a week. A high standard of fitness. Capable of climbing with a heavy pack (25kg/55lb) for extended periods in mountain conditions. High level of training specific to climbing that would include heavy pack carrying over rough terrain and other preparation such as regular gym/pool/bike training. Excellent level of fitness from participants who would have an ongoing commitment to training and maintaining fitness specific to climbing. Expect long days in extreme conditions. Preparation would include heavy pack carrying, specific conditioning through rock and/or ice climbing and habitual cardio vascular exercise.

    Duration

    56 Days

    Elevation

    8,516m / 27,940ft

 2013 Lhotse Expedition Team in the gully on their summit day with Everest looming large in the background.  © Guy Cotter
Lhotse - Ascending the gully
© Guy Cotter

2013 Lhotse Expedition Team in the gully on their summit day with Everest looming large in the background.

19 June 2014
  • Climb the world’s fourth highest mountain
  • Or, combine an ascent of Everest with Lhotse


The fourth highest mountain in the world, Lhotse is an exhilarating climb that follows the Everest climbing route as far as Camp Four.

A narrow gully splits the upper northwest face making for an exciting and interesting finale to the climb.

From Base Camp we ascend the famous Khumbu icefall and enter the Western Cwm that we follow to Camp Two, surrounded by the towering flanks of Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest’s South West face.

The route steepens as we climb the icy Lhotse face to Camp Three then on through the Yellow Band to Camp Four at the base of the summit gully. 2,000ft / 600m of climbing up the icy gully follows, sometimes with rocky sections that keep you on your toes, making this a challenging ascent.

You have the option of joining the expedition specifically to climb Lhotse, or as a combo climb, making the ascent directly after your Everest summit from South Col.

Why AC?

The expedition benefits from the infrastructure we have for our Everest expedition and is therefore well resourced and supported.

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