6,189m / 20,400ft  South Ridge of Island Peak with North Ridge of Ama Dablam in the distance. © Colin Monteath

Island Peak stands centrally at the head of the Imja Khola (river), a tributary of the mighty Khumbu Valley that leads to Mt Everest. It was named by the indefatigable explorer Eric Shipton who suggested it looked like an island rising from a sea of ice. It was climbed the following year by British Everest expedition members Evans, Gregory, Wylie and Tenzing Norgay who were testing oxygen apparatus for the consequent ascent of Everest.
 
The ascent of the Island Peak comes at the completion of the acclimatisation trek through the famous Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp where you get to step foot onto the toe of Mt Everest’s imposing Khumbu icefall. The following day features a climb to the fabulous viewpoint of Kalapatar for spectacular views of Everest. An adventurous crossing of the Kongma La brings the group into the Imja valley.
 
All accommodation is in comfortable lodges up to this point but for the climb we establish a tented Base Camp. On summit day we leave camp early to ascend a rock gully to reach the glacier by dawn. We don crampons to cross the glacier to a steeper pitch secured by fixed rope that leads to the snowy ridgeline and on to the summit. Whilst never technical, the climbing is interesting and challenging for those who are new to mountaineering. From the summit you could be excused for thinking you are in a giant fish bowl, surrounded so closely by the imposing flanks of many of the world’s biggest mountains.
 
This expedition provides a superb entry into Himalayan climbing, be it the first of many or the only expedition in your climbing aspirations. Island Peak is mostly non-technical with some basic snow climbing skills required to achieve the ascent. Relevant skills will be taught or revised during the early stages of the climb. 
 
An excellent first expedition objective, this ascent will satisfy your desire to experience Himalayan climbing.
  • Ideal first Himalayan climb
  • Spectacular views of the Himalayan giants
  • Visit Everest Basecamp, climb Kala Patar
  • Traverse the rarely visited Kongma La

Dates: Trip 1: April 26 - May 19, 2012
             Trip 2: October 15 - November 7, 2012                         

Duration: 24 days

Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal

Price: US$4,400  includes Island Peak ascent

Those not climbing Island Peak can join the Khumbu Trek which accompanies this expedition. 

Itinerary:

Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu
2 Gear check, optional sightseeing Kathmandu Valley
3 Fly Kathmandu- Lukla, walk to Phakding (3hrs)
4 Phakding to Namche Bazaar (5hrs)
5 Sightseeing in Namche Bazaar, day walk to Khumjung and Khunde
6 Namche Bazaar to Thyangboche, visit Monastery (5hrs)
7 Thyangboche to Pangboche, visit Monastery (2 hrs)
8 Pangboche to Dingboche (3hrs)
9 Rest day Dingboche
10 Dingboche to Lobuche (4hrs)
11 Rest day Lobuche
12 Lobuche to Gorak Shep (3hrs), climb Kalapatar (5554m, 3hrs)
13 Gorak Shep to Everest BC (5300m) to Lobuche
14 Lobuche to Kongma-La Pass (5535m); descend to Chhukung (9hrs)
15 Ropes training and rest day in Chhukung
16 Chhukung Ri ascent (6 hrs)
17 Chhukung to Island Peak BC (3 hrs)
18 Base Camp to Island Peak summit (6173m) to BC (10-12hrs) - return  Chukung (3 hrs)
19 Chukung to Pangboche (3-5 hours)
20 Pangboche to Namche Bazaar (5 hrs)
21 Namche Bazaar to Lukla (7 hrs)
22 Spare day
23 Lukla-Kathmandu flight
24 Trip ends – depart from Kathmandu
 
Inclusions / Exclusions:

The expedition trek fee includes the following: 

 Nepalese Government peak royalty fees
 All trek organisational requirements
 All trekking permits
 Airport Transfers in Kathmandu
 Air transport and accommodation in lodges or tents ex Kathmandu
 All group equipment for the trek and Island Peak climb (tents, ropes, kitchen etc.)
 All trek staff, including western and Sherpa guides, porter support
 Transport of 15kg of personal equipment
 All meals after departing Kathmandu and before arriving back in Kathmandu
 Back up Medical services

The expedition trek fee does not include the following: 

 Air travel to and from Nepal
 Hotel accommodation and meals in Kathmandu
 Purchases of bottled water while on the trek, gifts or alcohol.
 Entry visas for Nepal (suggest getting 30 day tourist visa for Nepal on arrival into KTM)
 Personal clothing and equipment
 Personal expenses whilst trekking such as laundry, showers, internet use
 Personal travel / trip cancellation insurance  
 Excess baggage charges for the flights to / from Lukla
 Any rescue costs
 Gratuities

 Click below to download the trip notes for our Island Peak 2012 Expeditions:

Adobe Acrobat DocumentIsland Peak 2012 Trip Notes
Adobe Acrobat Document: 380 KB, 56 seconds @ 56kbps
Trip notes for the Adventure Consultants Island Peak Expeditions

Read dispatches from our current Island Peak 2011 Expedition.

Read the dispatches of our previous expeditions at Island Peak 2007,  Island Peak 2008, Island Peak 2009, Island Peak 2010.

What others have to say:

"After seeing other expeditions in the area, I would only go with AC. I would highly recommend AC to everyone considering a trek/expedition. There were some trekkers that moved too quickly to altitude and were suffering unnecessarily. We saw clients of other groups moving slowly.  Sometimes they were left to catch up on their own.  What a horrible feeling that must be?!   There were times we would sit at the tea house and say “we could’ve gone further today” but when we saw the next day what was before us, it all made sense why we stayed for the afternoon reading and playing cards.  AC plans their treks and expeditions with such professionalism there is no reason to question the schedule. I never doubted that we were in good hands. From the first phone call and e-mail to the follow-up feedback, you run a wonderful organization leaving me completely satisfied that the next trek/expedition I attempt will be with AC." Kathryn, Island Peak 2009  

"As a general comment, I was totally satisfied by the expedition. Logistically, organisationally and food-wise, everything was excellent.  Expertise-wise I felt in very safe hands; leadership on the mountain was spot on.  Base Camp facilities were great, and the bonus trip up to everest base camp was also wonderful.  I came away with nothing but wonderful memories, that I will treasure forever.  I paid to go with the best, and I think I got the best.  I would not hesitate to recommend you to other climbers.  I was also greatly impressed with the efforts you made to welcome me and Annet to Nepal.  As for suggested improvements, can't think of any."  Mick, Island Peak 2003
 

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