20,624 ft / 6,286 m
Great Trango is situated in the Trango group in Pakistan's Baltoro Glacier region, one of the most remarkable mountain settings on earth. The climbing route is deceptively straightforward, ascending from the Trango glacier to the summit of Great Trango.
The climbing is only moderately technical making this expedition an ideal first foray to higher altitudes or simply a wonderful experience for climbers wanting a taste of the best that the Himalaya can offer without the extreme altitude.
The route follows an easy gully for 500m to Camp I then traverses moderate snow and rock slopes beneath Trango Tower (often referred to as Nameless Tower) to meet the NW ridge and the site of Camp II. There can hardly be a more spectacular and picturesque camp site in any mountain range than this one. Rock towers soar all around and the peaks of the upper Baltoro valley come into view. The summit day from this camp follows an exposed knife edge ridge to a small icecliff which leads us onto the summit snow fields and a few hours later the summit itself.
Climbing members will require stamina and familiarity with modern climbing techniques and will be required to carry only their personal clothing and equipment on the route. The guiding team will establish the camp sites and establish the route, fixing ropes where necessary.
We utilise our familiarity with Pakistan, and our excellent contacts there, to ensure a wonderful cultural experience within a country that has a fascinating history and delightful inhabitants. Being a part of a climbing expedition in this area provides an insight to the ancient peoples of Asia in addition to accomplishing a fine mountaineering objective.
Suggested Dates: June 7 to July 4
Duration: 4 weeks
Departure: ex Islamabad, Pakistan
Price: US$12,000 (per person, based on a group of 6)
Please click below to view the trip notes for the Great Trango Expedition online or to download a pdf version of the notes:
|Great Trango Tower Expedition 2013 Trip Notes|
Adobe Acrobat Document: 489 KB, 72 seconds @ 56kbps
Private expedition to Great Trango Tower in Pakistan