Eiger via Mittellegi Ridge

MITTELLEGI RIDGE, EX CHAMONIX ITINERARY


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Day

 

 

0

Arrive Chamonix, hotel night.

 

1

Meet with your guide for an equipment check and briefing before taking La Flégère and l’Index lifts to 2,385m. Big boot rock climbing revision and training. Traverse the peaks of Aiguille de l’Index and return via La Flégère lift. Chamonix hotel night.

 

2

To Aiguille du Midi lift and ascend the Arête des Cosmiques to the Midi AD (3800m). Drive to Grindelwald in Switzerland (3.5hrs). Hotel night.

 

3

Train to Jungfraujoch (1.5 hrs) climb Mönch en route to the Mönchjochs Hut. The South East Ridge (AD) of the Mönch is a delightful scramble, with an exposed knife-edge crest to finish. Fine views extend out to both the Eiger and the Jungfrau from the top.

 

4

Train down to Eismeer Station (1.5hrs). Short rappel from window, cross glacier and climb difficult ground (AD, 4 hrs) to Mittellegi Hut  (3,355m)

 

5

Climb Mittellegi Ridge, (6 hrs, D) and descend South Ridge to Jungfraujoch and then return to Mönchjochs Hut.

 

6

Descend to Grindelwald and return to Chamonix possibly rock climbing en route. Possible spare weather day for Eiger summit. Hotel night in Chamonix

   

7

Depart Chamonix after breakfast. Trip Ends.

DETAILS

Your guide will meet with the morning after you arrive in Chamonix, France, for an equipment check and briefing about the upcoming program and anticipated weather conditions. You will then start training by taking a lift to a high mountain region close to Chamonix where you will make ascents of appropriate training routes on the Aiguille de I’Index. This is the time where you get to practice climbing skills and start to acclimatise for the ascent of the Eiger in the final days of the program.

The following day you will ascend to the Aiguille de Midi to climb the Arête des Cosmiques (AD, 3,800m) which is a very enjoyable climb on mixed snow and rock. In addition to being a really good day out in the mountains, this will help to consolidate your acclimatisation and to get some good climbing under your belt to get you well prepared for the upcoming ascents. Once training has been completed you will travel with your guide to Switzerland and ascend to the Mönchjochs Hut and climb a route on the Mönch en route.

After the Mönch you take the train to the Eismeer Station and from there you rappel onto the glacier and climb via steep rock to the Mittellegi Hut from where you make the ascent the following morning. After descending you return to Chamonix for the night.

First and foremost, weather and conditions have to be favourable for a safe ascent of this serious peak. Although success cannot be guaranteed, we have developed our approach to give appropriately prepared climbers a serious chance of attaining an ascent of this classic route.

The ascent is based entirely on a 1:1 guiding ratio. While some operators will clump you together with large groups during the early acclimatisation phase we feel there is much to be gained on warm-up routes that get you prepared for the upcoming rigours and technical challenges that you will face. 

We program the trip over 6 days/7 nights to include the necessary period of acclimatisation before making an ascent at this altitude.  We consider it vital that you work closely with your guide throughout the week to develop the appropriate level of communication and trust to collectively make the ascent as a partnership of two people on a rope. Extra days can be added to the programme for additional acclimatisation and preparation days by signing up for our 2 day Europe Pre-Course and Acclimatisation program.

MITTELLEGI RIDGE, EX LAUTERBRUN ITINERARY


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Day

 

 

0

Arrive Lauterbrun. Meet your guide in the evening for briefing and equipment check.    Hotel night. Note: Due to guide commitments, in some instances, the guide will meet you the morning of day 1.

 

1

Training and revision rock climbing in the valley in the morning. Téléphérique to Sulwald and trek 2hrs to Lobhörner Hut (1,955m). Hut night.

 

2

Traverse of Lobhörner (2,566m) return to Lauterbrun. Hotel night.

 

3

Train to Jungfraujoch (2 hrs) climb Mönch en route to the Mönchjochs Hut. The South East Ridge (AD) of the Mönch is a delightful scramble, with an exposed knife-edge crest to finish. Fine views extend out to both the Eiger and the Jungfrau from the top.

 

4

Train down to Eismeer Station (1.5hrs). Short rappel from window, cross the glacier and climb (AD, 4 hrs) to Mittellegi Hut (3355m).

 

5

Climb Mittellegi Ridge, (6 hrs, D) and descend South Ridge to Jungfraujoch and then return to Mönchjochs Hut.

 

6

Descend to Lauterbrun. Possible spare weather day for Eiger summit. Hotel night in Lauterbrun. 

   

7

Depart Lauterbrun after breakfast.

DETAILS

Your guide will meet with you on the evening of your arrival in Lauterbrun, Switzerland, for equipment check and a briefing about the upcoming programme and anticipated weather conditions. You will start the training the following morning and take a lift to a high mountain region close to Lauterbrun where you will make ascents of interesting and challenging training routes. This is the time where you get to practice climbing skills and become acclimatised for the ascent of the Eiger in the final days of the program.

We have purposely included some classic ascents in your training programme, not only to help you focus on the skills for the climb ahead but to enable you to get some other fantastic routes under your belt as well!

Once training has been completed you will ascend by train to the Eismeer Station and from there you rappel onto the glacier and climb via steep rock to the Mittellegi hut.

First and foremost, weather and conditions have to be favourable for a safe ascent of this serious peak. Although success cannot be guaranteed, we have developed our approach to give you a serious chance of attaining an ascent of this classic route.

The ascent is based entirely on a 1:1 guiding ratio. While some operators will clump you together with large groups during the early acclimatisation phase we feel there is much to be gained on warm-up routes that get you prepared for the upcoming rigours and technical challenges that you will face. 

We programme the trip over 6 days/7 nights to include the necessary period of acclimatisation before making an ascent at this altitude.  We consider it vital that you work closely with your guide throughout the week to develop the appropriate level of communication and trust to collectively make the ascent as a partnership of two people on a rope. Extra days can be added to the programme for additional acclimatisation and preparation days by signing up for our 2 day Europe Pre-Course and Acclimatisation program

ABOUT THE CLIMB

Forming the left edge of the North Face, the Mittellegi Ridge rises in imposing steps and towers to a knife-edge snow crest leading to the summit. More technical than the Matterhorn, even with sections of fixed rope, it was the last of the great Oberland ridges to be climbed (1921).

As you climb the ridge looking down to your left you see majestic glaciers and on the right, you see the green meadows of Grindelwald. On the descent, we get to look into the famous North Face, climbed by four talented Austrian/German mountaineers in 1938.

During the ascent, we follow the very exposed ridge crest, turning and ascending rock towers along the way. We are assisted by a rather fat fixed rope that will assist us through the steeper sections. Near the top we climb a steep and airy snow arête with significant exposure on both sides, not for the faint hearted!

The summit day will start well before dawn around 3am and you will be encouraged by your guide to move consistently to ensure you reach the summit in a reasonable timeframe. Depending on conditions the ascent will take between 5-7 hours and an equal length of time to descend. We usually descend via the West Flank or the South Ridge.

This ascent rewards those who are well prepared you will really enjoy this climb for its intensity and technical challenges.

 

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