Dhaulagiri

ITINERARY


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Apr 9

 

Arrive Kathmandu

 

10

 

Kathmandu Prep

 

11

 

Fly Pokhara, drive to Darbang

 

12 - 18

 

Trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp

 

19 - 22

 

Rest Days at Dhaulagiri Base Camp

 

23 - May 23

 

Climbing Period

 

May 24 - 26

 

Cross French Pass and trek to Jomsom

 

27

 

Flights to Pokhara/Kathmandu

 

28

 

Trip Ends

KATHMANDU TO DHAULAGIRI BASE CAMP

The expedition commences from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal.  From there we fly to Pokhara, and then drive onwards to the road end at Darbang. We approach the mountain via one of the least frequented trekking routes to any 8000m mountain in Nepal.  It is a seven day trek to the Base Camp through deep remote valleys beginning at a height of 1,100 metres above sea level, only 7,067 metres to go!

The trek into the mountain will be both an opportunity to immerse ourselves in expedition life and to acclimatise for the upcoming ascent. We ascend through temperate climes, passing Hindu settlements where traditional agricultural techniques are still practiced. The final leg of the trek takes us under the immense western flank of Dhaulagiri to a sheltered Base Camp at 4,700 metres.

THE CLIMBING ROUTE

Dhaulagiri is located in western Nepal, only a few kilometres across the valley to the west of Annapurna (the world’s tenth highest mountain). The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches and we will climb via the standard route, the North East Face, a route first climbed by the famous Kurt Diemburger along with Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert, with Sherpas Nawang Dorje and Nima Dorje of Nepal in May 1960.

The climbing route is mostly of relative low angle without seriously steep terrain at any point.

The route at first ascends via an icefall below the `little Eiger’, a wall that is reminiscent of the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. After that, the route eases onto the broad north col where we will locate our first camp at 5,850m.

Above, we follow a long natural arête where we situate Camp 2 at 6,400m.

Above Camp 2 the route steepens as we approach the northwest ridge that descends from the summit. Once we crest this ridge, we are in the position of our top camp at the base of the summit snowfield at around 7,100m.

A traverse across the snowfield leads to a forty-five degree gully that leads to the broad summit.

Summit day will start well before dawn and the climb should take about 6-8 hours depending on conditions. The climbing is not especially technical, but any summit day on an 8000m peak is unforgettable. Our strong guide and Sherpa team will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group on what will be a memorable day with the objective to reach the summit of the seventh highest mountain in the world.

We utilise Sherpa support to establish camps and carry some of our personal gear to each camp. There will be times when you will need to carry all your own kit, especially when we descend after reaching the summit. There is an option to arrange Sherpa support if you would like your gear carried, or even a personal Sherpa to climb with you on all of the climbing days.

We will be sufficiently provisioned to move as a group up the mountain, yet if the situation dictates we may break into smaller teams with Sherpa support to make our summit bids.

The expedition will be run in a reasonably ‘lightweight’ style without excessive bells-and-whistles, yet we will still have the appropriate level of support, equipment, food, communication, medical equipment, weather forecasts and resources to facilitate a fantastic expedition!

 

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