Who is American Alpine Institute (AAI) and why do they run your Denali trip?

AAI is our American alliance partner for Denali. The reason we use them is that Denali National Park mandates that as a guide service, you must go with a concession company. AAI has a concession for operations on the mountain, so this allows us to share our collective experience in the mountains on this fantastic climb. We find that out of all the providers out there, AAI provides a good, quality product, and we are excited to be partnered with them on this amazing expedition up one of the 7 Summits.

I hear horror stories about how heavy the packs are and the sleds, how do I prepare for that?

You are right in that it is hard training. Some folks actually drag around tyres to prepare for the sleds! I would suggest further reading - we recommend a few books on training that will help you get started. The thing to remember is that the more prepared you are, the more comfortable you will be during your trip.

I hear Denali can sometimes be colder than Antarctica! Why is that?

It actually can be! Denali is closer to the arctic circle than most mountains, hence, it can be much colder with the wet arctic weather fronts that can blow in at any time.

What is a typical day on the mountain like?

Days start out typically in the snow kitchen, hydrating and eating heartily. We then break camp, load our packs and sleds, and set out. Days can be as long as 7-8 hours with summit day up to 14-18 hours! Upon arrival in a new camp, you can expect at least 1-2 hours digging tent platforms and walls, as well as a kitchen platform.

How do I get to the mountain from Anchorage?

We will arrange a shuttle to Talkeetna, the town where all flights to Denali basecamp originate. There you will meet your guides, pack food, sort gear, and prepare for your trip.

I hear it’s possible to get stuck on the mountain, is it true?

Yes! If bad weather moves in, it is possible to be delayed at basecamp until the weather clears for flights. If there is snow, it could take even longer as you need to wait till the snow gets packed down before flights can land. Sometimes you are even asked to help pack it down with your snow shoes and skis!

What are the skills/prior experience required for this climb?

You need to have at least completed one of our AAI/AC partner Denali Prep 7 day courses, or have had equivalent experience on other glaciated terrrain mountaineering trips. This climb requires proficiency in glacier travel, crevasse rescue, cramponing, self arrest with an ice axe, and general winter camping skills. Previous experience at altitude will also be beneficial. Contact our office for details if you have questions about your qualifications or need ideas for how to get the skills required.

What is the conditioning level needed for this climb?

Excellent physical condition is required. The cold combined with the challenge of carrying a heavy pack and pulling a sled along with sometimes inclement weather, can all play a part on your trip. The better shape you are in, the better you will be equipped to handle the situation.

How many climbers will be on this expedition?

Typically 9 climbers and 3 guides on each expedition.

Can I contact other climbers or guides for this expedition?

Sure! Getting training ideas, and generally keeping each other excited about the trip is the name of the game! As the time draws closer for your expedition, contact our office for contact details for other members of your team.

Will I be sharing a tent or room with other climbers?Is there a single room option on this trip?

Typically you will endeavour to book you a single room in Talkeetna, and share a tent with another climber or two on the mountain depending on the camp. Regarding the single room options prior to starting the trip, we must warn you that Talkeetna is small, and if you don’t book a single room when you sign up, chances are you cannot change once you arrive in town, as summertime sees town filled with climbers.

How heavy will my pack and sled be?

Your pack can sometimes reach weights of 60-65lbs/27-30kg and your sled could possibly reach 40-50lbs/18-23kg.

What kind of food do you have on the mountain?

The good news about traveling on the glacier is that we can bring a lot of perishable food! Hamburgers, bacon, bagels, fresh cheese, all the way up to high camp - we try to eat as hearty as possible!

How long is a typical day on the mountain?

Depending on the weather and what camps we are travelling between, days can range anywhere from 5 hours to 15 hours long on summit day.

What type of communication is available on the climb?

Your guides will typically carry satellite and cell phones, as above 14,000ft we have line of sight with cell phone towers! You can even pickup radio stations from Anchorage!

What sort of hotels do we stay at in the city?

We stay at a quaint little bed and breakfast nestled in the pines just outside Talkeetna. Contact our office for website details.

What time should I arrive and where do I meet my guides?

After you sign up for the trip and reserve your flight, we will work with you to coordinate the pickup time for the shuttle from Anchorage to Talkeetna. Your guide will typically meet you at the B+B in Talkeetna.

How much should I budget for this expedition? How much cash should I plan to bring?

There is nothing to buy once on the hill, but if we get stuck in Talkeetna waiting for weather to fly in, you will need money to pay for meals, hotels, etc. You can also simply bring a cash card, as there are cash machines all over town. Most members get by with 200-300 USD each trip.

How much should I tip my guide staff?

Tipping is not required, but always appreciated. The level of your tip should reflect the level of interaction with your guide. If you feel that they did a good job for you, then give accordingly.

What if I arrive early or depart late?

If you arrive early or depart late, it’s not a problem, our office will work with you to arrange the shuttle to meet your arrival time.

Are there any entry or visa requirements?

Depending on what country you are from you may need a visa, but typically visiting the USA does not require visas.