Cho Oyu


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ITINERARY

Day

  1

  

Arrive Kathmandu

 

2

 

Sightseeing in Kathmandu, obtain Chinese Visa

 

3

 

Fly to Lhasa

 

4

 

Sightsee in Lhasa

 

5

 

Drive to Shigatse

   

6

 

Drive to Tingri

 

7

 

Rest day in Tingri

 

8

 

Drive to road end Base Camp

 

9-10

 

Rest/acclimatisation at road end (4,800m)

 

11

 

Trek to valley camp (5,300m)

 

12

 

Trek to Base Camp (5,650m)

 

13

 

Rest at Base Camp/organise equipment

 

14-30

 

Establish high camps and acclimatise

31-38

 

SUMMIT WINDOW

 

39

 

Return to Base Camp

 

40

 

Pack equipment

 

41

 

Trek back to road end and drive to Tingri

 

42

 

Drive to Nepalese border

 

43

 

Drive to Kathmandu

 

44

 

Depart from Kathmandu 

TRAVEL TO BASE CAMP

The expedition commences from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal.  From there we travel by plane to Lhasa where we are met by the staff from the Tibetan Mountaineering Association.  There is time to sightsee in Lhasa, and we begin to acclimatise since Lhasa is at a height of 3,540m. We then transfer to Chinese vehicles for the journey overland to the mountain.  We stop for a few nights along the way to assist acclimatisation as the vehicles ultimately take us to 4,800 metres.  From the road’s end a two-day trek, with yaks carrying the luggage, leads us to the base camp at 5,650 metres.  This is a spectacular spot set across from the famous Nangpa La pass.

CLIMBING ROUTE

The route to Camp One follows the moraine up the main glacier and turns off to the east up a tributary glacier after a two-hour hike.  After a steep climb up the scree and snow we are led to the camp at 6,400 metres.  We also use a Camp 1.5 at 6,700m.

From Camp One, the route follows a moderate snow and ice ridge before leading through a small ice serac and out onto a broad plateau.  Camp Two is situated at 7,000 metres in a ‘football field’ looking up at the summit region.

From Camp Two, a 30 degree snow climb leads directly up to Camp Three at 7,400 metres.

The summit climb from Camp Three will take around 12 hours return for most members and involves climbing through a short rock band just above the top camp before heading into an open couloir, which in turn leads to the summit plateau.

 

 

Dispatches

 

Photos

 Ch Oyu from base camp near Nangpa La  © Arthur Collins

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