Mt Aspiring / Tititea


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ITINERARY

Day

 

1

Meet your guide in Wanaka, check gear, drive to the road end and fly into the mountains in the early afternoon. A two hour walk across the Bonar Glacier takes us to Colin Todd Hut. Alternatively we may opt to camp in our tent camp on Bevan Col.

2

Acclimatisation day, ascend a smaller peak such as Mt Bevan and undertake some familiarisation skills with your guide.

3

Summit day, start 3am, and finish as late as 7pm - OR contingency day.

4

Commence walk out, reaching French Ridge Hut or a bivvy site in the West Matukituki Valley OR contingency day.

5

Complete walk out to road end, (or optional flight out at extra cost) to vehicle at the road end.

THE ROUTES

Mt Aspiring Routes

All of the routes take on average around 14-16 hours return. The walk into the Aspiring region is a beautiful but a long walk (12-16 hours) into Bevan Col or Colin Todd Hut where we base ourselves for the climb. The majority of our guests utilise helicopter access to Bevan Col on the edge of the Bonar Glacier in order to arrive fresh and take advantage of fine weather periods.

THE RAMP

A steep snow route ascending from the Bonar glacier which meets the North West Ridge halfway to the summit. Our most commonly ascended route and an all-time classic. We ascend this route until late December when access is cut off by late summer conditions.

THE NORTHWEST RIDGE

A rock route which follows the ridge, deviously avoiding any really difficult climbing, but with plenty of exposure! We usually follow this route from mid-late December onwards.

THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE

This climb is a real gem for the more technically orientated mountaineers. A long fine arête gradually steepens to culminate in a technical gully section, then a two pitch ice face that takes you almost to the summit itself!

The Ramp or NW ridge routes are of similar technical grade and conditions can sometimes favour one of these routes over the other. Often the decision as to which route is most appropriate to climb can only be made once you are in the region. Climbers attempting the SW ridge will need prior ice climbing and mountaineering experience.

Photos

 Mount Aspiring-Tititea at dusk  © Guy Cotter

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