Nevado Alpamayo, as it’s more correctly known, is situated in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. With its twenty-nine summits at over 6000m, the Cordillera Blanca forms but a small part of the Andes chain, which lies down the whole of the western side of South America. Alpamayo doesn’t quite reach that rounded figure of 6000m, but makes up for its relative lack of height in aesthetic beauty.
The first attempt on Alpamayo’s summit was in 1948 by a Swiss expedition. Climbing by way of the heavily corniced North ridge, the three climbers came within sight of the virgin summit when a large cornice broke under them, and they were carried down the precipitous North-West face. By some amazing piece of good fortune, the three were neither buried nor injured by the 650ft fall and they were able to make an ‘orderly retreat’ from the mountain.
In 1957 a German expedition led by Günter Hauser, comprising some of Germany’s strongest climbers succeeded in climbing Alpamayo via its South Ridge. Although no less steep, nor less dangerous than the North ridge, this ridge had the tremendous advantage of leading directly to the higher South summit.
Summit day consists of 500m of perfect two-tooled ice and neve (Styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. A climber knows they are close to reaching the top when they begin to see light through the face from the other side.
During the expedition you will enjoy high quality ‘western’ food as well as popular local dishes. One of the highlights of this expedition is the high quality meals that are prepared by our local staff. Please indicate any specific dietary requirements you may have on your application form. For special diets such as vegan and gluten/dairy free we will call you to discuss your needs and how this will work in the group cooking situation. If you’re dietary requirements are especially strict you are advised to bring a sufficient supply of your required food types with you to ensure you are provided for.
Expedition members will be sent a list detailing all necessary individual clothing and personal equipment required.