Alpamayo Artesonraju

ITINERARY


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Day

 

1

Arrive Lima, transfers to hotel

2

Tourist bus first class seat Lima to Huaraz

3

Acclimatisation day in Huaraz. Rock climbing at Los Olivos crags.

4

Day hike to Macashca Hills

5

Day hike Pitec to Laguna Churup

6

Vallunaraju to Morena Camp

7

Vallunaraju - Climbing instruction. Camp at Morena Camp

8

Vallunaraju Summit Climb. Return to Huaraz.

9

Rest Day

10

Drive Huaraz to Cashapampa. Trek to Llama Corral, camp.

11

Trek to Alpamayo Base Camp.

12

Climb to Moraine Camp.

13

Climb to High Camp.

14

Summit Day. Return to High Camp.

15

EXTRA DAY. Bad weather day, rest day or climb Quitarajau.

16

Return to Base Camp.

17

Base Camp to Cashapampa. Drive to Huaraz (or move to Artesonraju Base Camp if continuing on the Artesonraju Extension).

18

Transfer back to Lima.

19

Transfer to airport/flights home for those that didn't depart on prior evening.

ARTESONRAJU EXTENSION ITINERARY

Day

 

17

Move to Artesonraju Base Camp

18

Rest day in Base Camp

19

Climb to Moraine Camp

20

Climb to High Camp

21

Climb Artesonraju. Return to Base Camp.

22

Rest or Bad Weather Day

23

Return to Huaraz

24

Transfer to Lima

25

Departure and flights home

ALPAMAYO CLIMB

After a meeting in Lima we drive north to Huaraz and repack the expedition gear. This town and its higher elevation allow us to further acclimate and prepare for the challenges ahead. We then drive north to the Santa Cruz Valley where we begin our trek into base camp. With the bulk of our gear on pack animals, we gradually acclimatise as we ascend the valley beneath some of the famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca - the enormous Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, and the very imposing pyramid of Quitaraju.

We establish a base camp in a small valley right beneath Quitaraju (6036m) and Alpamayo (5917m), and then spend several days establishing an advanced base camp on the col between the two peaks. Depending on conditions on the mountain, we can choose from a variety of routes, such as the Ferrari Route or the Italian route. On our climb of the Ferrari Route we traverse a gentle glacier to the base of the route, soon reaching 45 degree slopes before crossing a bergschrund, and then ascending the sharply fluted snow and ice face directly to the summit. We enjoy 400m of challenging ground, much of it at a sustained 60 degrees of mixed ice and snow. The final pitches are even steeper and provide an exciting finish to one of the world's finest ice face routes.

ARTESONRAJU CLIMB

Artesonraju
01 December 2014

An ascent of Artesonraju 6,025m (19,767ft) can turn our 19 day Alpamayo programme into a fantastic 25 day expedition to include one of the world's most recognisable summits. Artesonraju, made famous in the Paramount Pictures logo, is a beautiful pyramidal peak situated between the Santa Cruz and Paron Valleys. The climbing is more technical than Alpamayo with some pitches up to 60-80 degrees.  Climbers must be totally confident using two technical ice tools and to have climbed, and be confident climbing, long (200m+) steep technical ice walls.

The cost depends on how many people join the Artesonraju extension and is guided at a 1:2 ratio. Your guide/s from the Alpamayo programme will accompany you and the cost is inclusive of the Adventure Consultants western guide from the trip guiding you on Artesonraju.

In previous years we have offered an extension itinerary to climb Huascarán, the highest peak in Peru.  However, conditions have been deteriorating making the climb more dangerous and with a lesser chance of success.  Hence from 2015 we are now offering Artesonraju as an add-on to Alpamayo.

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