Adventure News 15 April 2016
After many months of preparation our Nepal spring season expeditions are now operating. We have a team of ten climbing Mt Everest, with guides Mike Roberts, Ang Dorjee Sherpa and Lydia Bradey, and our Sherpa team directed by Expedition Sirdar Da Jangbu Sherpa. You can follow them via their Everest 2016 Dispatch page.
We then have a team of two climbing Lhotse with guide Rob Smith and their progress will be posted at Lhotse 2016. Our Everest Base Camp Trekkers have satyed at Base Camp and climbed Kala Patar and are sharing their views and experience at Everest Base Camp Trek 2016 Dispatches whilst later in April we have Mera Peak climbers led by Dean Staples and Island Peak Climbers and Khumbu Trekkers led by Charley Mace. Plus more Luxury Everest Base Camp Treks led by Caroline Ogle and Suze Kelly.
Step right up! It's time to commit if you plan on climbing Vinson Massif or you have trekking to the South Pole on your adventure agenda this year. We have four Vinson expeditions planned with guides Steve Moffat, Mark Sedon, Lydia Bradey and Dean Staples ready to head south again and we have Ski the Last Degree South Pole (10 days) and All The Way South Pole (60 days) expeditions planned. You can also combine Vinson and Ski the Last Degree options and you can add a South Pole flight on after climbing Vinson, as it's such a long way to go, as well as an Antarctic Climbing programme (12 days) around Union Glacier in Antarctica if you want to maximise your time there and explore some of the amazing peaks and potential First Ascents that are still on offer. The important thing is to get in touch with Aaron, our Programme Co-ordinator, NOW in order to get your plans in place for climbing down south at the end of the year as spaces on flights to the continent are close to being full.
Vinson Dates 2016/17:
On Carstensz they were fortunate to have good weather that allowed them to access Carstensz Base Camp by helicopter and reach the summit in good time on March 10, followed by an adventurous walk out though the jungle accomanies by local Papuan porters over 5 days. Congratulations to Greg Virtue – New Zealand, Neil Long – Australia, Mark Biegel – UK / Philippines, David Creeden – USA. Our next Carstensz expeditions are Aug 6 - 20, 2016 and Oct 29 - Nov 12, 2016.
On Aconcagua our new Course & Ascent programme was a popular trip and a great way for our climbers to spend more time acclimatising on nearby Vallecitos 5440m, before climbing to the summit of Aconcagua 6962m. Congratulations to Paul Pheby - Hong Kong and John Yagi - Canada who reached the summit of Aconcagua on February 20.
Elbrus is a giant dormant volcano separating Europe from Asia. It is the highest peak in Europe and is an appropriate objective as your first or second of the Seven Summits.
We begin the expedition in St Petersburg where we visit the art galleries, museums and architecture of this magical city. A travel day delivers us to the Elbrus region where we climb the local hills to aid our acclimatisation.
Being relatively high, Elbrus demands respect and we approach this by climbing higher each day during our acclimatisation phase whilst sleeping at lower elevations at night. A cable car takes us up to accommodation at the base of the climb where you can learn basic snow and ice techniques from the guides prior to the ascent. The summit day entails climbing long snow slopes with views over the wooded valleys to the surrounding peaks.
After climbing Elbrus, we travel to Moscow, an iconic European city steeped in history.
Elbrus 2016 Dates:
As we cruised past 10,000 likes on our Facebook page this month, we wanted to thank you for all your support by sharing this wonderful image taken at 5.00am on the 24th of April in 2015, by Kiwi climber and photographer Mark Bellamy, from Camp 1 on Mt Pumori, looking over at the Khumbu Icefall on Mt Everest. This was the day our team climbed to Camp 1 from Base Camp last year, and you can see the route through the icefall highlighted by everyone's headlamps. The route put through by the Icefall Doctors for the 2015 season had been directed away from the danger of the overhanging seracs, that routinely fall off the west shoulder of Everest, which caused the tragedy in 2014. This image speaks of the progress made and the promise felt by the 2015 climbing teams as they made their way up through the icefall and on to the mountain, which was only to be shattered the following day, April 25, by the earthquake that affected all in Nepal so deeply. We are now nearly one year on from this national tragedy, and with our Everest 2016 Expedition underway we are pleased to be returning to this wonderful land with its amazing, resilient people. The dispatches from our Everest expedition are being posted daily - please follow along. Sign up for the Email Alerts and you will be sent an email each time the dispatch page is updated with news and photos.
A love story has been blossoming at our AC headquarters this past summer, which resulted in our NZ Client Liason Danielle Ozich getting married to French mountain guide Thomas Vialletet! Consequently, they are off to live in France and we have a new Client Liaison and Gear Shop Manager - Emberley Wetherall. Em hails from Vermont USA though has called New Zealand home for several years now. She has climbed and adventured in many parts of the Southern Alps and is very knoweldgeable about all things outdoor equipment. As well as being a Registered Dietician she is a competitive triathlete.
Sometimes the mountain you climb is decided by the time of year that you have available to travel and climb. This calendar of 'when to climb' is a very useful tool for planning out your next climbing trip. The calendar has also been made in to an actual calendar if your would like a 2017 print version of the calendar for your wall.
Training for mountaineering and climbing is complicated and many of you have questions about how to best proceed but this training program is unique in that it brings the science of training to climbers and debunks many of the old training myths we have been held back by for decades. Whether you are a young athlete, or a mid 50's adventurer looking to improve your health and fitness, this program will do wonders for you. Adventure Consultants has partnered with Uphill Athlete (by Steve House and Scott Johnston) to create scientifically sound training plans designed by two professional coaches and leading mountaineers. We've been working on this concept for some time and we are relly excited to finally be able to launch this program.
Those of you aspiring to big mountains like Denali, Cho Oyu and Everest you would benefit from the guidance, wisdom, and convenience of an online fitness coach. For expedition objectives Steve and Scott recommend a minimum of four months and ideally 6-7 months to prepare for an 8,000-meter peak ascent.
You can buy and download these specially designed training plans for Adventure Consultants at Training Peaks.
From the AC Blog page
Ama Dablam 2017 - 20,000 Steps to Namche
Island Peak 2017 - Namche Bazaar
Manaslu 2017 - Back in Ktm
Lux EBC #3 2017 - Farewell
Mustang 2017 - Kathmandu
Elbrus 2017 - Party Time!
Elbrus Private 2017 - Moscow
Everest 2017 - Wrapping Up
- Mens Health Oct 2015 Peak Performance
It's a razor-thin line between life and death on Everest. After facing his own tragedy on the mountain, Guy Cotter emerged a more capable man. Use his lessons to scale your own heights. By Aaron Scott.
- Guy Cotter talks about the Everest movie to Huffington Post
- Guy Cotter Discusses All Things Everest
July 7, 2015 - Ellis Brigham's blog recounts events on Everest in 1996, the New Everest movie and Everest 2015 with Adventure Consultants CEO Guy Cotter.
- The Schooling
June 17, 2015 - Insights to the world of ski mountaineering from professional freeride skier Lorraine Huber who recently joined Adventure Consultant's Alpine Expedition Course with guide Jono Gillan.
- Explorers Web Interview with Suze Kelly Everest Earthquake Debrief.
June 11, 2015 - Suze Kelly "It was like walking in to the scene from a plane crash"...
- Southland Times - AC Vows to return to Earthquake stricken Nepal
June 8, 2015 - A Wanaka guiding company has vowed to return to Nepal in September and is encouraging adventurers not to turn away from the earthquake-stricken nation and its people.
- The Daily Mail - Sam Worthington scales new heights in chilling movie Everest
June 5, 2015 - He is known for intense roles, having portrayed paralysed renegade Marine veteran Jake Sully in Avatar...The British-born star, 38, plays New Zealand climbing expert Guy Cotter...
- TV3 News Campbell Llive - Video - Guy Cotter speaks out after Nepal Earthquake
April 28, 2015 - An interview with Guy Cotter following the Earthquake at Everest Base Camp.
- The Snows of Aoraki
April 2015 Issue - Dan Slater of Climb Magazine (UK) tells his story about a 10-day alpine climbing course with renowned Wanaka-based company Adventure
- The Climber - How the Other Half Lives
Issue 90 Summer 2014/15 - Nic Learmonth - Self proclaimed rock rat, enters the world of mountaineering on Adventure Consultants Mountaineering Introduction Course to see what all the hype is about...
- Wanaka Mountaineer Mixing with Stars
14 Nov 2014 - The Otago Daily Times shares a little about the upcoming Universal Pictures 3-D film recounting Everest 1996 where Avatar's Sam Worthington plays Guy Cotter.
- Outer Edge - My Own Private Glacier
Oct 2014 - A great blog from Jonathan Moody who recently joined us for our Alpine Expedition Course
- AG Outdoor Magazine - Aspiring to Greatness
Oct 2014 - Brendon Hill from www.agoutdoor.com joined us for a Mount Aspiring Course and Ascent...here's his story.
- Great Walks - Climbing Mont Blanc for Brain Injury Awareness
Sep 2014 - A great story about an AC Charity Climb of Mont Blanc
- Queenstown Life - Adventure Consultants
Aug 2014 - Queenstown life captures the inner workings of Adventure Consultants and shares a bit of our history with their readers.
- An Introduction...The Southern Alps
Zack Wasson describes his backcountry skiing trip with us..."What a trip it was, our first introduction to the Southern Alps. Needless to say, our tickets are booked again for this August. Let it Snow!"
- Mining Life and Living, Issue 4 - Frozen Playground
Christie Prior shares her experience on an AC Mountaineering Instruction Course.
- The Optimum Layering System?
Guy Cotter gives us his thoughts on the matter...
- Radio New Zealand - Break on Everest Climbs May Allow for Better Planning
May 2014 - Interview with AC Director Guy Cotter
- National Geographic Daily News - Climbing Finished for Season on Everest after Deadly Avalanche?
May 2014 - Mark Jenkins interviews AC Director Guy Cotter.
- Great Walks - The Only Way is Up
April/May 2014 - Great Walks goes from the horizontal to the vertical while attending AC's Alpine Climbing Course in NZ's South Island.
- Outdoor Fitness - Mountains Made Easy
Can you go from armchair alpinist to 4,000-metre summiteer in under a week? Or is that too much of a climb? Damian Hall joined us last September for the Mont Blanc Course and Ascent. Check out his article which appeared in the June 2013 Issue of Outdoor Fitness
- 60 Minutes - Everest ER
17 June, 2013 - Join Michael Usher 5500 metres above sea level at Everest Base Camp where mountaineers launch their quest for the summit.
- Huffington Post - Watching the Sun Rise on the Summit of Mt Everest
10 June, 2013 - AC 2013 Everest Expedition member, Cason Crane, blogs about his reasons for climbing Everest and the world's Seven Summits.
- Polygon - Dean Hall on the Roof of the World: How Illness Persuaded the Creator of Dayz to Climb Mt Everest
7 June 2013 - Great article by Dave Tach about AC Everest 2013 team member Dean Hall and what led him to his goal of climbing the world's highest mountain.
- TVONE Breakfast - Summit Ladder a Step Too Far
29 May, 2013 - TVOne's Breakfast featured an interview of AC's Guy Cotter to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of Hillary's summit of Everest and to get his views on the proposed ladder on the Hillary Step.
- TV3 - 60 Years on, New Zealander's Still Climbing Everest
27 May, 2013 - TV3 News interviews AC CEO Guy Cotter from Namche, Nepal while on his way back to Kathmandu from Everest/Lhotse.
- New Zealand Herald - Record Breaking Glory on Mt Everest
22 May 2013 - AC Lead Everest Guide, Dean Staples', reached the summit of the world's highest peak for the ninth time this May, a record number of ascents for a kiwi.
- Otago Daily Times - Meeting with Famous Climber
21 May, 2013 - Wanaka climber and Adventure Consultants director Guy Cotter was on a high before he even left Everest Base Camp last week after meeting one of his idols, Reinhold Messner, who is considered by many to be the greatest climber in history...
- Otago Daily Times - Father-Son Everest Trip
28 April, 2013 - Hall is one of eight people from around the globe making the ascent as part of the Adventure Consultants expedition from Wanaka. His father, Otago Regional Council emergency management co-ordinator Graeme Hall, travelled with him as far as Base Camp and returned to Dunedin this week after seeing his son off on his perilous trek...
- Otago Daily Times - Wanaka-Hawea Climbers on Top of Everest
5 January, 2013 - 6 AC guides profiled as the highest number of Everest ascents outside of Nepal concentrated in one town, per capita!
- Wilderness Magazine - View from the Top
Kiwi climber Peter Cammell writes of his experience climbing Everest in 2012 with Adventure Consultants
- Utah Adventure Journal - Guy Cotter, A Life of Climbing