Adventure News 17 April 2015
The AC team are here at Everest Base Camp preparing to start climbing on the mountain over the next few days. Yesterday, our Sherpa’s held a Puja ceremony at which a Lama incited prayers to seek protection for the climbers going onto the mountain. This ceremony was all the more poignant considering the devastating avalanche that took the lives of 16 climbing Sherpas last year on 18 April. To commemorate the tragic loss, all the teams will remain off the mountain on this day to hold vigils and ceremonies for those who passed in this event. We at AC have had our own Puja and sent prayers for the three Sherpas from our team, who were lost in this event.
In response to the event last year, the icefall 'doctors' have agreed this year to change the route they have traditionally taken through the Khumbu Icefall. Their previous route took a hazardous path (where the accident occurred) under some very unstable ice cliffs, yet they preferred this route because it was easier for them to establish. In the 1990's, when I was first coming to Everest, we would put the route in ourselves. Our route was more central, to avoid the more hazardous, but easier path on the right side of the icefall. However, the expeditions to Everest were later forced to rescind control of the establishment of the route up the icefall to a Sherpa consortium, to which all the climbers are obliged to pay a hefty fee for the service. The Sherpa climbers who put the route up the icefall were dubbed the 'icefall doctors' in respect to the intricate rigging of ropes and ladders involved.
Now at least, our safety concerns about the route are finally acknowledged and a much safer and more direct route has been put up through the centre of the icefall to Camp One, and all the climbers here appreciate that it has taken a devastating event to effect a positive change in safety standards on the mountain.
For now, heavy snowfall has slowed progress somewhat but we anticipate climbers moving to Camp One over the next week.
This 5-day helicopter accessed course will have you up-to-speed as an ice climber in no time. Learn all the skills you need to climb steep ice in the best ice climbing area in the country. This high-octane course focuses on developing lead climbing skills, and you can expect to learn all the current ice climbing techniques by the end of the course with our specialist ice climbing instructors.
We take a helicopter directly from Queenstown Airport into Wye Creek; that is without dispute, the best ice climbing area in the country. Once the helicopter lands, you are surrounded by beautiful ice flows that drape over bluffs and cliffs, providing a smorgasbord of climbs of varying difficulty.
Trips Dates: July to August, 2015. To learn more about NZ Ice Climbing Courses or to join in, click the link below.
We are pleased to announce that our Backcountry Ski Course now includes the NZ Mountain Safety Council (MSC) Avalanche Awareness and the Backcountry Avalanche Qualifications on both our 5 and 7 day courses.
On this course, we will helicopter into a high alpine hut located in one of the NZ National Parks where you will explore some of our highest glaciers. We provide you with up-to-date techniques and safety skills and at the end of the course, you will have the knowledge to plan and explore backcountry terrain almost anywhere in the world, with this MSC Avalanche Certification.
Course Dates: August - September 2015. To learn more about our Backcountry Ski Course and MSC Avalanche certification or to join in, click the link below.
From the AC Blog page
Ama Dablam 2017 - Final dispatch
Island Peak 2017 - Last day
Everest 2017 - Wrapping Up
- Mens Health Oct 2015 Peak Performance
It's a razor-thin line between life and death on Everest. After facing his own tragedy on the mountain, Guy Cotter emerged a more capable man. Use his lessons to scale your own heights. By Aaron Scott.
- Guy Cotter talks about the Everest movie to Huffington Post
- Guy Cotter Discusses All Things Everest
July 7, 2015 - Ellis Brigham's blog recounts events on Everest in 1996, the New Everest movie and Everest 2015 with Adventure Consultants CEO Guy Cotter.
- The Schooling
June 17, 2015 - Insights to the world of ski mountaineering from professional freeride skier Lorraine Huber who recently joined Adventure Consultant's Alpine Expedition Course with guide Jono Gillan.
- Explorers Web Interview with Suze Kelly Everest Earthquake Debrief.
June 11, 2015 - Suze Kelly "It was like walking in to the scene from a plane crash"...
- Southland Times - AC Vows to return to Earthquake stricken Nepal
June 8, 2015 - A Wanaka guiding company has vowed to return to Nepal in September and is encouraging adventurers not to turn away from the earthquake-stricken nation and its people.
- The Daily Mail - Sam Worthington scales new heights in chilling movie Everest
June 5, 2015 - He is known for intense roles, having portrayed paralysed renegade Marine veteran Jake Sully in Avatar...The British-born star, 38, plays New Zealand climbing expert Guy Cotter...
- TV3 News Campbell Llive - Video - Guy Cotter speaks out after Nepal Earthquake
April 28, 2015 - An interview with Guy Cotter following the Earthquake at Everest Base Camp.
- The Snows of Aoraki
April 2015 Issue - Dan Slater of Climb Magazine (UK) tells his story about a 10-day alpine climbing course with renowned Wanaka-based company Adventure
- The Climber - How the Other Half Lives
Issue 90 Summer 2014/15 - Nic Learmonth - Self proclaimed rock rat, enters the world of mountaineering on Adventure Consultants Mountaineering Introduction Course to see what all the hype is about...
- Wanaka Mountaineer Mixing with Stars
14 Nov 2014 - The Otago Daily Times shares a little about the upcoming Universal Pictures 3-D film recounting Everest 1996 where Avatar's Sam Worthington plays Guy Cotter.
- Outer Edge - My Own Private Glacier
Oct 2014 - A great blog from Jonathan Moody who recently joined us for our Alpine Expedition Course
- AG Outdoor Magazine - Aspiring to Greatness
Oct 2014 - Brendon Hill from www.agoutdoor.com joined us for a Mount Aspiring Course and Ascent...here's his story.
- Great Walks - Climbing Mont Blanc for Brain Injury Awareness
Sep 2014 - A great story about an AC Charity Climb of Mont Blanc
- Queenstown Life - Adventure Consultants
Aug 2014 - Queenstown life captures the inner workings of Adventure Consultants and shares a bit of our history with their readers.
- An Introduction...The Southern Alps
Zack Wasson describes his backcountry skiing trip with us..."What a trip it was, our first introduction to the Southern Alps. Needless to say, our tickets are booked again for this August. Let it Snow!"
- Mining Life and Living, Issue 4 - Frozen Playground
Christie Prior shares her experience on an AC Mountaineering Instruction Course.
- The Optimum Layering System?
Guy Cotter gives us his thoughts on the matter...
- Radio New Zealand - Break on Everest Climbs May Allow for Better Planning
May 2014 - Interview with AC Director Guy Cotter
- National Geographic Daily News - Climbing Finished for Season on Everest after Deadly Avalanche?
May 2014 - Mark Jenkins interviews AC Director Guy Cotter.
- Great Walks - The Only Way is Up
April/May 2014 - Great Walks goes from the horizontal to the vertical while attending AC's Alpine Climbing Course in NZ's South Island.
- Outdoor Fitness - Mountains Made Easy
Can you go from armchair alpinist to 4,000-metre summiteer in under a week? Or is that too much of a climb? Damian Hall joined us last September for the Mont Blanc Course and Ascent. Check out his article which appeared in the June 2013 Issue of Outdoor Fitness
- 60 Minutes - Everest ER
17 June, 2013 - Join Michael Usher 5500 metres above sea level at Everest Base Camp where mountaineers launch their quest for the summit.
- Huffington Post - Watching the Sun Rise on the Summit of Mt Everest
10 June, 2013 - AC 2013 Everest Expedition member, Cason Crane, blogs about his reasons for climbing Everest and the world's Seven Summits.
- Polygon - Dean Hall on the Roof of the World: How Illness Persuaded the Creator of Dayz to Climb Mt Everest
7 June 2013 - Great article by Dave Tach about AC Everest 2013 team member Dean Hall and what led him to his goal of climbing the world's highest mountain.
- TVONE Breakfast - Summit Ladder a Step Too Far
29 May, 2013 - TVOne's Breakfast featured an interview of AC's Guy Cotter to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of Hillary's summit of Everest and to get his views on the proposed ladder on the Hillary Step.
- TV3 - 60 Years on, New Zealander's Still Climbing Everest
27 May, 2013 - TV3 News interviews AC CEO Guy Cotter from Namche, Nepal while on his way back to Kathmandu from Everest/Lhotse.
- New Zealand Herald - Record Breaking Glory on Mt Everest
22 May 2013 - AC Lead Everest Guide, Dean Staples', reached the summit of the world's highest peak for the ninth time this May, a record number of ascents for a kiwi.
- Otago Daily Times - Meeting with Famous Climber
21 May, 2013 - Wanaka climber and Adventure Consultants director Guy Cotter was on a high before he even left Everest Base Camp last week after meeting one of his idols, Reinhold Messner, who is considered by many to be the greatest climber in history...
- Otago Daily Times - Father-Son Everest Trip
28 April, 2013 - Hall is one of eight people from around the globe making the ascent as part of the Adventure Consultants expedition from Wanaka. His father, Otago Regional Council emergency management co-ordinator Graeme Hall, travelled with him as far as Base Camp and returned to Dunedin this week after seeing his son off on his perilous trek...
- Otago Daily Times - Wanaka-Hawea Climbers on Top of Everest
5 January, 2013 - 6 AC guides profiled as the highest number of Everest ascents outside of Nepal concentrated in one town, per capita!
- Wilderness Magazine - View from the Top
Kiwi climber Peter Cammell writes of his experience climbing Everest in 2012 with Adventure Consultants
- Utah Adventure Journal - Guy Cotter, A Life of Climbing