Adventure News - Newsletter of Adventure Consultants September 2014
The seasons seem to slip by so fast one has to be quick to get those seasonal adventures in before it’s too late. We’re counting down the last couple of weeks for any reasonable ice climbing at lower elevations and the snow on the ski resorts is getting distinctly spring-like on the warmer aspects. I’m not complaining, spring will bring longer days and good ski touring conditions so we’re looking forward to that too. Here’s a quick update on what’s been going on and what’s coming up soon so you have time to tell the boss you’re off on an expedition!
Our July expedition members all summited on Alpamayo this season after making an acclimatisation ascent of Vallunaraju a few days prior. AC guide, Victor Saunders, who ran the trip, described the ascent of Alpamayo as an amazing 8 pitch route, never too hard but a great day out on the ice. Some of the team were to go on to tackle Huascaran but weather and conditions weren’t favourable for the climb to continue.
Read their dispatches here.
Aaron had this to say about his Elbrus trip;
“The expedition organisation as a whole was excellent and what I expected. This was done at a high level of comfort and ease considering the local travel and logistical challenges. To be honest I think you have this trip as close to dialled to how it should run.“
Europe Summer Climbing Season
We’ve enjoyed an active season in Europe this year with successful ascents of many of the major peaks. The Alps experienced a mixed bag of weather that was sometimes favourable with good successes, and sometimes challenging, where alternative climbing objectives were chosen. With access in the Alps being so easy, it is a common perception to think we can get our climbs done quickly, but it’s well worth planning some extra time for acclimatisation and weather delays in your climbing plans. And hey, if you do finish early you can go climbing in other areas or even hit the crags for some enjoyment of climbing on warm rock.
NEW TRIP – starting next summer we are running `Around Mt Blanc’ trekking trips! Or rather 'Tour du Mont Blanc'. Imagine wandering through fields of lovely alpine flowers with iconic peaks all around, then hiking over a small mountain pass on well-formed trails, stopping each night to stay at beautiful alpine chalets that are comfortable and fully catered with a real bed to sleep in. As you watch the alpenglow bathe the mountains in delicate evening light you can sip a glass or two of fine local wine and ponder the days ahead and marvels you will see. Read about this exciting new trip Tour du Mont Blanc and start planning your 2015 summer vacation.
Look out for our Summer Haute Route also where we will be traversing the classic high trekking route through the Alps from Chamonix to Zermatt.
Post Monsoon Season in the Himalaya
Now that we're in September we’re excited to announce the commencement of our post monsoon season in Nepal. All our expeditions are being run by people who are not only great personalities, leaders and guides, but have IFMGA guide international credentials to prove it. Our standards are very high for our staffing, and the contribution these guides make to the outcome of the trip is what makes the difference between our expeditions and those being run on a shoestring to enable the trip leaders to claim their own summits.
Cho Oyu is still the best choice as the safest and most accessible 8k peak to climb. AC guides, Steve Moffat and Matty Chessor are guiding our 2014 expedition to this excellent 8000m mountain and we look forward to watching the trip unfold by checking in on the daily progress through the dispatches.
Sign up here to live vicariously through the exploits of the team off on their big adventure to the world’s sixth highest peak on the Cho Oyu dispatch page.
Tim Robertson and Andrew Yasso are running the Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam SW Ridge Expedition this season; the SW ridge being the ultimate route on one of the most iconic mountains on earth. Technical, exposed and very exciting, the SW ridge is quite achievable for fit climbers with a desire for an ascent that is not a snow plod. The trip begins on Oct 15 through to Nov 11. There is still opportunity to join this expedition for the last couple of spaces. There’s no time like now to pick up the phone and commit to this great adventure!
As a first time journey to Nepal this trip is probably the best trip you can do. Visit Everest base camp, cross some high passes and when you are fit and acclimatised, finish up by climbing the accessible 6189m Island Peak. You can also share the journey with non-climbing friends who can partake in the Khumbu Trek that runs alongside until you climb Island Peak. At that time the trekkers take some interesting and picturesque hikes around the Imja Tse valley and enjoy the nice lodges there. This expedition is being led by AC Guide Stefan Sporli.
Seven Summits - Carstensz Pyramid Nov 1 - 15
Possibly the most intriguing of the world’s seven summits due to dense jungles and natives living a primitive existence, climbing Carstensz is one big adventure! We fly in by helicopter to the base camp and trek out through the jungles after the climb. Mike Roberts is returning once again to lead this trip which may well see him complete his 3rd round of the Seven Summits, so he’s not a newbe to this! Still a couple of spaces available if you want to take advantage of this opportunity!
As the highest summit outside of the Himalaya, Aconcagua presents an ominous challenge for all those who try to climb to the top of South America to 6992m. The AC expeditions have high success rates and quality logistics that make the expedition just that much more enjoyable. Whether you are aiming for Aconcagua to be the pinnacle of your high altitude trekking, training for climbing up to 7000m or the climb is part of your Seven Summits quest then with the Adenture Consultants Aconcagua programmes you will get only the best logistics and guiding and the best advice and support for climbing at high altitude. We operate three expeditions over the summer season, with the first starting on November 29.
Europe Winter Climbing and Skiing
It’s time to start planning your winter trip to the European Alps to enjoy some of the best ski terrain this world has on offer. We operate the famous multi day ‘Haute Route’ in late winter that takes in some of the best of the high glaciers with comfortable hut accommodation that is fully catered.
Due to increased demand we have added some NEW TRIPS to our program because they are just so good! We will have full information on these trips in the next few weeks to look out for on our website.
Ski Tour Week – daily ski touring out of Chamonix so you can revel in the powder stashes known to our local guides by using lifts and ski touring for access, then each night you return to your hotel to immerse yourself in Chamonix’s cultural nirvana with a myriad of restaurants and nightlife to enjoy.
Europe ice climbing courses - The Alps are undisputedly recognised as one of the world’s ice climbing mecca’s. In addition to our Guided Ice Climbing options we will be launching courses with set dates so you can enjoy the best rates and meet other keen ice mongers.
The `Chamonix 3 day Ice Climbing Course’ will operate over weekends with a focus on introduction to ice climbing while the 5 day Ice Climbing will be initially based in Chamonix but then move on to Cogne in Italy for multi pitch classics. You will stay in hotels each night and enjoy the best on offer each day on the ice crags. Very civilised!
Of course you can still climb with a private guide on dates and durations to suit you or bring some of your mates and experience an introductory course or high grade ascents together.
It is not often we see a guide officially retire but our dear friend and seasoned Italian guide Paolo Pieroni has decided to move to the UK with his family to operate their family camping ground and holiday park north of London.
We are sorry to see Paolo go as he’s been instrumental in the Adventure Consultants European Alps climbing operation as guide to many of our climbing guests and held in high regard as a professional and extremely amicable person (he is Italian after all!) We at AC HQ will miss him and we wish him all the best for his move to England and hope he doesn’t find the weather too depressing there :)
New Zealand Winter – ICC’s over, Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival
Adventure Consultants again sponsored the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival with the `Chick’s with Picks’ programme where AC guides Jane Morris and Lydia Bradey ran the 2 day ice climbing program designed to introduce women to ice climbing. This was the third Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival and is the biggest meeting of climbers in New Zealand each year with 140 attendants.
With a warm start to the winter the ice climbing season actually turned out to be a pretty good season for our Ice Climbing Courses on the ice formations at Wye Creek, Queenstown. Check out all the action on our Winter 2014 Facebook photo album.
New Zealand Summer
The New Zealand summer climbing season is booking up very quickly so please get in touch very soon to book your favourite guide for ascents of one of our amazing mountains or to join one of our popular instruction courses.
Kilimanjaro Jan 4 -16 2015 spaces available! $4,400 + $1990 safari
We operate (what we believe to be) the highest quality trips to Kilimanjaro with a very high level of service, incredible food with clean and delicious locally prepared food. Kilimanjaro is accessible to most people with a reasonable level of fitness and is therefore suitable for the whole family. The safari afterwards provides just reward for the effort on the big mountain (that is there in the background) as you mix it up face-to-face with lions, elephants, cheetahs, giraffe’s, hyena’s etc. Climbing Kili followed by a wildlife safari is an amazing combo that you really must do! While you are there we can help arrange other adventures such as a relaxing holiday on Zanzibar, the spice islands off the coast of Tanzania.
Luxury Kilimanjaro Trek and Wildlife Safari
We frequently operate private luxury trips to Kilimanjaro for groups with quality at the forefront. On Kilimanjaro we provide walk-in tents, heated dining tents, additional private toilets and showers and much more. These trips operate from 5 star luxury hotels and lodges set in relaxing in coffee plantations and we will tailor the trip to match your duration and ambitions. These trips are led by our seasoned Everest guides with superb support from our local staff. Contact us to discuss how we can make you extremely popular with your friends or family by showing them how caring you are by arranging what could be one of the best experiences of their lives!
Charity Climbs - Brain Challenge Mont Blanc
This month (Sept 2014) an Australian team of four climbers will mount an assault on the summit of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe. Their climb will symbolise the hidden mountains that those with a brain injury and their carers and families must climb each day. You can learn more about them and donate to their cause at www.brainchallenge.me
From the AC Blog page
Ama Dablam 2017 - Final dispatch
Island Peak 2017 - Last day
Everest 2017 - Wrapping Up
- Mens Health Oct 2015 Peak Performance
It's a razor-thin line between life and death on Everest. After facing his own tragedy on the mountain, Guy Cotter emerged a more capable man. Use his lessons to scale your own heights. By Aaron Scott.
- Guy Cotter talks about the Everest movie to Huffington Post
- Guy Cotter Discusses All Things Everest
July 7, 2015 - Ellis Brigham's blog recounts events on Everest in 1996, the New Everest movie and Everest 2015 with Adventure Consultants CEO Guy Cotter.
- The Schooling
June 17, 2015 - Insights to the world of ski mountaineering from professional freeride skier Lorraine Huber who recently joined Adventure Consultant's Alpine Expedition Course with guide Jono Gillan.
- Explorers Web Interview with Suze Kelly Everest Earthquake Debrief.
June 11, 2015 - Suze Kelly "It was like walking in to the scene from a plane crash"...
- Southland Times - AC Vows to return to Earthquake stricken Nepal
June 8, 2015 - A Wanaka guiding company has vowed to return to Nepal in September and is encouraging adventurers not to turn away from the earthquake-stricken nation and its people.
- The Daily Mail - Sam Worthington scales new heights in chilling movie Everest
June 5, 2015 - He is known for intense roles, having portrayed paralysed renegade Marine veteran Jake Sully in Avatar...The British-born star, 38, plays New Zealand climbing expert Guy Cotter...
- TV3 News Campbell Llive - Video - Guy Cotter speaks out after Nepal Earthquake
April 28, 2015 - An interview with Guy Cotter following the Earthquake at Everest Base Camp.
- The Snows of Aoraki
April 2015 Issue - Dan Slater of Climb Magazine (UK) tells his story about a 10-day alpine climbing course with renowned Wanaka-based company Adventure
- The Climber - How the Other Half Lives
Issue 90 Summer 2014/15 - Nic Learmonth - Self proclaimed rock rat, enters the world of mountaineering on Adventure Consultants Mountaineering Introduction Course to see what all the hype is about...
- Wanaka Mountaineer Mixing with Stars
14 Nov 2014 - The Otago Daily Times shares a little about the upcoming Universal Pictures 3-D film recounting Everest 1996 where Avatar's Sam Worthington plays Guy Cotter.
- Outer Edge - My Own Private Glacier
Oct 2014 - A great blog from Jonathan Moody who recently joined us for our Alpine Expedition Course
- AG Outdoor Magazine - Aspiring to Greatness
Oct 2014 - Brendon Hill from www.agoutdoor.com joined us for a Mount Aspiring Course and Ascent...here's his story.
- Great Walks - Climbing Mont Blanc for Brain Injury Awareness
Sep 2014 - A great story about an AC Charity Climb of Mont Blanc
- Queenstown Life - Adventure Consultants
Aug 2014 - Queenstown life captures the inner workings of Adventure Consultants and shares a bit of our history with their readers.
- An Introduction...The Southern Alps
Zack Wasson describes his backcountry skiing trip with us..."What a trip it was, our first introduction to the Southern Alps. Needless to say, our tickets are booked again for this August. Let it Snow!"
- Mining Life and Living, Issue 4 - Frozen Playground
Christie Prior shares her experience on an AC Mountaineering Instruction Course.
- The Optimum Layering System?
Guy Cotter gives us his thoughts on the matter...
- Radio New Zealand - Break on Everest Climbs May Allow for Better Planning
May 2014 - Interview with AC Director Guy Cotter
- National Geographic Daily News - Climbing Finished for Season on Everest after Deadly Avalanche?
May 2014 - Mark Jenkins interviews AC Director Guy Cotter.
- Great Walks - The Only Way is Up
April/May 2014 - Great Walks goes from the horizontal to the vertical while attending AC's Alpine Climbing Course in NZ's South Island.
- Outdoor Fitness - Mountains Made Easy
Can you go from armchair alpinist to 4,000-metre summiteer in under a week? Or is that too much of a climb? Damian Hall joined us last September for the Mont Blanc Course and Ascent. Check out his article which appeared in the June 2013 Issue of Outdoor Fitness
- 60 Minutes - Everest ER
17 June, 2013 - Join Michael Usher 5500 metres above sea level at Everest Base Camp where mountaineers launch their quest for the summit.
- Huffington Post - Watching the Sun Rise on the Summit of Mt Everest
10 June, 2013 - AC 2013 Everest Expedition member, Cason Crane, blogs about his reasons for climbing Everest and the world's Seven Summits.
- Polygon - Dean Hall on the Roof of the World: How Illness Persuaded the Creator of Dayz to Climb Mt Everest
7 June 2013 - Great article by Dave Tach about AC Everest 2013 team member Dean Hall and what led him to his goal of climbing the world's highest mountain.
- TVONE Breakfast - Summit Ladder a Step Too Far
29 May, 2013 - TVOne's Breakfast featured an interview of AC's Guy Cotter to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of Hillary's summit of Everest and to get his views on the proposed ladder on the Hillary Step.
- TV3 - 60 Years on, New Zealander's Still Climbing Everest
27 May, 2013 - TV3 News interviews AC CEO Guy Cotter from Namche, Nepal while on his way back to Kathmandu from Everest/Lhotse.
- New Zealand Herald - Record Breaking Glory on Mt Everest
22 May 2013 - AC Lead Everest Guide, Dean Staples', reached the summit of the world's highest peak for the ninth time this May, a record number of ascents for a kiwi.
- Otago Daily Times - Meeting with Famous Climber
21 May, 2013 - Wanaka climber and Adventure Consultants director Guy Cotter was on a high before he even left Everest Base Camp last week after meeting one of his idols, Reinhold Messner, who is considered by many to be the greatest climber in history...
- Otago Daily Times - Father-Son Everest Trip
28 April, 2013 - Hall is one of eight people from around the globe making the ascent as part of the Adventure Consultants expedition from Wanaka. His father, Otago Regional Council emergency management co-ordinator Graeme Hall, travelled with him as far as Base Camp and returned to Dunedin this week after seeing his son off on his perilous trek...
- Otago Daily Times - Wanaka-Hawea Climbers on Top of Everest
5 January, 2013 - 6 AC guides profiled as the highest number of Everest ascents outside of Nepal concentrated in one town, per capita!
- Wilderness Magazine - View from the Top
Kiwi climber Peter Cammell writes of his experience climbing Everest in 2012 with Adventure Consultants
- Utah Adventure Journal - Guy Cotter, A Life of Climbing