Newsletter June 2014
With the imminent onset of winter here in New Zealand we are eagerly anticipating the arrival of snow that will enable us access to our stash of legendary ski touring terrain that we can get to pretty quickly on a powder day. We are also excitedly anticipating the start of our ice climbing courses mid July in the Wye Creek, Remarkables area. This year we also offer guided ice climbing that is described later on in this newsletter.
Today marks not only our first winter trip of the season with a polar training course but also the first of our European summer programmes! We love that it's always climbing season somewhere with AC.
There has been a resounding response of donations to the Sherpa support fund to assist the families of the Sherpas who were lost on Everest this year. A HUGE thank you on behalf of the affected families for that much needed assistance. We will post updates on the ongoing well-being of the families and children as they continue their educations.
Nepal's highest trekking peak is tucked away in the Ingkhu Kola valley just off the beaten track from Lukla. AC guide Tim Robertson led an intimate group of three on the trip with Paul, Tracey and Hugh summitting Mera Peak on a glorious day on May 8th. Tim reported on his dispatch that night;
We stood on the 6461m summit of Mera Central at 6:00 am and were treated to an amazing panorama of the giants of the Himalayas; Makalu quite close to the north, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga a long way to the east and of course, Lhotse and Everest.
The indefatigable Victor Saunders made a valiant attempt to help his group summit Manaslu but they missed out on the summit after some heavy snowfalls caused delays as they waited for conditions to stabilise. The team reached the site of high camp but turned back with forecasted weather looking torrid. A good effort by the team, most of whom, made it to their personal-best high points. Quote from the trip “I don't drink, because when I do - I wake up married!”
Congratulations to the Greenland Crossing Team who started the 540km/335 mile traverse on April 15 and completed the journey on May 13. The team was led by of Robert Thor Haraldsson of Iceland who was accompanied by team members, Bjarni, Antony and Eric. The expeditioners were forced to endure severe difficulties on the way that included severe storms with wind up to 120 km/hr (33 m/s), extreme temperatures as low as -35°C, difficult snow formations and various technical difficulties including a broken ski, ski pole and a ski-binding. All necessary requisites for a fully fledged polar journey of epic proportions!
Some locals from our little old town of Wanaka enjoyed a trek to the majestic Mustang region in Nepal last month to the ancient city of Lo Monthang. Camilla and Tim had planned the journey as their honeymoon treat as a very unique way to mark this auspicious occasion. Nothing wrong with saying you visited the place where Padmasambhava achieved the Rainbow Body of Great Transference on your honeymoon!
Ice climbing with a guide is probably one of the best ways to improve your game on the ice and/or mixed climbing. The Wye Creek venue offers an array of offerings from easy to extreme. Our comfortable expedition tent camp is set up with cot beds to sleep in and ‘hut like’ cooking facilities. We access the area on a short flight by helicopter from Queenstown and climb on the ice flows that are only 15 minutes from the camp. There are high alpine mixed routes on the big faces on the ‘Remarkables’ for those wanting a more `alpine’ experience. Come by yourself or with a friend for 2 to 5 days and get out there doing it! See our new Guided Ice Climbing page.
Many exciting climbing trips and instruction courses are about to get underway with our guides based in Chamonix, France and Switzerland. We have room on some of the scheduled instruction courses which range from an excellent introduction to mountaineering weeks to more advanced courses to hone your skills with tutoring by our top guides. The Mont Blanc Course & Ascent programme is a super popular week in the Alps as is the Monte Rosa Course & Ascents week. June and July are nearly booked out and we have some space in August, so get in touch and we can get your Alps climbing sorted for you this summer.
The enigmatic Victor Saunders is making the pilgrimage to Peru once again to lead an ascent of Alpamayo, one of his favourite mountains. There is still one space left for a fit and motivated climber with the option to add-on a quick ascent of Huascaran due to your acclimatisation gleaned on the Alpamayo climb.
Elbrus Trip 1 includes city tours in St Petersburg initially and Moscow after the climb. This trip is almost full so if you are considering joining, please do so soon. Elbrus Trip 2 is a shorter version (12 days as opposed to 14) that begins and ends in Moscow that still has a few spaces available also. Mike Roberts is returning to Russia to lead these climbs and continue his culture immersions in the cities of Moscow and St Petersburg.
We are again running a Cho Oyu expedition on what is the most accessible of all the 8000m peaks. The expedition is being led by the energetic Steve Moffat so if you want to join in on a high altitude expedition led by our golden boy then there's still time to book on.
We have a fly in / walk out option for Carstensz and can even fly by helicopter both ways for small groups of climbers. The next expedition departure is in November though if you are in a hurry we can help you achieve your 7 summits climbing ambitions in August also.
Nepal enthusiast and IFMGA guide Tim Robertson is designated leader on this year's Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam expedition Oct 15 - Nov 11 along with AAI guide Andrew Yasso. There are 3 spaces left and this climb is perfect for you if you love exposure, hard but not too hard climbing and all round high altitude exciting times!
If you want to learn a thing or two about high altitude mountaineering then consider a climb of three 6000m peaks with Everest guide Mark Sedon. Mark is leading the Three Peaks climb that ascends through some of the most spectacular and beautiful villages in a the Everest region of Nepal. This trip is popular with our climbers who are preparing for a climb of a higher objective in the Himalayas in order to log time and experience at high altitude on long summit days with alpine starts and also as a complete climbing expedition of a lifetime in itself.
Our confirmed Kilimanjaro expedition Aug 24 - Sep 5 is available for those keen to climb Kili with a group of Kiwis and in October we have the following charity trek opportunity - also with Kiwis!
Trek to the Highest Peak in Africa and help raise money for the NZ Mountain Film Festival Charitable Trust. The Festival has joined up with long time supporter, Adventure Consultants, to offer a charity trek to climb Mt Kilimanjaro with Festival Director and Himalayan guide, Mark Sedon. Click here to learn about Mark, the FIlm Festival and the Kilimanjaro trek.
Some exciting festivals coming up that we are a part of, are:
And don't forget the Queenstown Winter Festival June 20 - 29 www.winterfestival.co.nz
From the AC Blog page
Ama Dablam 2017 - Final dispatch
Island Peak 2017 - Last day
Everest 2017 - Wrapping Up
- Mens Health Oct 2015 Peak Performance
It's a razor-thin line between life and death on Everest. After facing his own tragedy on the mountain, Guy Cotter emerged a more capable man. Use his lessons to scale your own heights. By Aaron Scott.
- Guy Cotter talks about the Everest movie to Huffington Post
- Guy Cotter Discusses All Things Everest
July 7, 2015 - Ellis Brigham's blog recounts events on Everest in 1996, the New Everest movie and Everest 2015 with Adventure Consultants CEO Guy Cotter.
- The Schooling
June 17, 2015 - Insights to the world of ski mountaineering from professional freeride skier Lorraine Huber who recently joined Adventure Consultant's Alpine Expedition Course with guide Jono Gillan.
- Explorers Web Interview with Suze Kelly Everest Earthquake Debrief.
June 11, 2015 - Suze Kelly "It was like walking in to the scene from a plane crash"...
- Southland Times - AC Vows to return to Earthquake stricken Nepal
June 8, 2015 - A Wanaka guiding company has vowed to return to Nepal in September and is encouraging adventurers not to turn away from the earthquake-stricken nation and its people.
- The Daily Mail - Sam Worthington scales new heights in chilling movie Everest
June 5, 2015 - He is known for intense roles, having portrayed paralysed renegade Marine veteran Jake Sully in Avatar...The British-born star, 38, plays New Zealand climbing expert Guy Cotter...
- TV3 News Campbell Llive - Video - Guy Cotter speaks out after Nepal Earthquake
April 28, 2015 - An interview with Guy Cotter following the Earthquake at Everest Base Camp.
- The Snows of Aoraki
April 2015 Issue - Dan Slater of Climb Magazine (UK) tells his story about a 10-day alpine climbing course with renowned Wanaka-based company Adventure
- The Climber - How the Other Half Lives
Issue 90 Summer 2014/15 - Nic Learmonth - Self proclaimed rock rat, enters the world of mountaineering on Adventure Consultants Mountaineering Introduction Course to see what all the hype is about...
- Wanaka Mountaineer Mixing with Stars
14 Nov 2014 - The Otago Daily Times shares a little about the upcoming Universal Pictures 3-D film recounting Everest 1996 where Avatar's Sam Worthington plays Guy Cotter.
- Outer Edge - My Own Private Glacier
Oct 2014 - A great blog from Jonathan Moody who recently joined us for our Alpine Expedition Course
- AG Outdoor Magazine - Aspiring to Greatness
Oct 2014 - Brendon Hill from www.agoutdoor.com joined us for a Mount Aspiring Course and Ascent...here's his story.
- Great Walks - Climbing Mont Blanc for Brain Injury Awareness
Sep 2014 - A great story about an AC Charity Climb of Mont Blanc
- Queenstown Life - Adventure Consultants
Aug 2014 - Queenstown life captures the inner workings of Adventure Consultants and shares a bit of our history with their readers.
- An Introduction...The Southern Alps
Zack Wasson describes his backcountry skiing trip with us..."What a trip it was, our first introduction to the Southern Alps. Needless to say, our tickets are booked again for this August. Let it Snow!"
- Mining Life and Living, Issue 4 - Frozen Playground
Christie Prior shares her experience on an AC Mountaineering Instruction Course.
- The Optimum Layering System?
Guy Cotter gives us his thoughts on the matter...
- Radio New Zealand - Break on Everest Climbs May Allow for Better Planning
May 2014 - Interview with AC Director Guy Cotter
- National Geographic Daily News - Climbing Finished for Season on Everest after Deadly Avalanche?
May 2014 - Mark Jenkins interviews AC Director Guy Cotter.
- Great Walks - The Only Way is Up
April/May 2014 - Great Walks goes from the horizontal to the vertical while attending AC's Alpine Climbing Course in NZ's South Island.
- Outdoor Fitness - Mountains Made Easy
Can you go from armchair alpinist to 4,000-metre summiteer in under a week? Or is that too much of a climb? Damian Hall joined us last September for the Mont Blanc Course and Ascent. Check out his article which appeared in the June 2013 Issue of Outdoor Fitness
- 60 Minutes - Everest ER
17 June, 2013 - Join Michael Usher 5500 metres above sea level at Everest Base Camp where mountaineers launch their quest for the summit.
- Huffington Post - Watching the Sun Rise on the Summit of Mt Everest
10 June, 2013 - AC 2013 Everest Expedition member, Cason Crane, blogs about his reasons for climbing Everest and the world's Seven Summits.
- Polygon - Dean Hall on the Roof of the World: How Illness Persuaded the Creator of Dayz to Climb Mt Everest
7 June 2013 - Great article by Dave Tach about AC Everest 2013 team member Dean Hall and what led him to his goal of climbing the world's highest mountain.
- TVONE Breakfast - Summit Ladder a Step Too Far
29 May, 2013 - TVOne's Breakfast featured an interview of AC's Guy Cotter to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of Hillary's summit of Everest and to get his views on the proposed ladder on the Hillary Step.
- TV3 - 60 Years on, New Zealander's Still Climbing Everest
27 May, 2013 - TV3 News interviews AC CEO Guy Cotter from Namche, Nepal while on his way back to Kathmandu from Everest/Lhotse.
- New Zealand Herald - Record Breaking Glory on Mt Everest
22 May 2013 - AC Lead Everest Guide, Dean Staples', reached the summit of the world's highest peak for the ninth time this May, a record number of ascents for a kiwi.
- Otago Daily Times - Meeting with Famous Climber
21 May, 2013 - Wanaka climber and Adventure Consultants director Guy Cotter was on a high before he even left Everest Base Camp last week after meeting one of his idols, Reinhold Messner, who is considered by many to be the greatest climber in history...
- Otago Daily Times - Father-Son Everest Trip
28 April, 2013 - Hall is one of eight people from around the globe making the ascent as part of the Adventure Consultants expedition from Wanaka. His father, Otago Regional Council emergency management co-ordinator Graeme Hall, travelled with him as far as Base Camp and returned to Dunedin this week after seeing his son off on his perilous trek...
- Otago Daily Times - Wanaka-Hawea Climbers on Top of Everest
5 January, 2013 - 6 AC guides profiled as the highest number of Everest ascents outside of Nepal concentrated in one town, per capita!
- Wilderness Magazine - View from the Top
Kiwi climber Peter Cammell writes of his experience climbing Everest in 2012 with Adventure Consultants
- Utah Adventure Journal - Guy Cotter, A Life of Climbing