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 © Guy Cotter

Guy Cotter at South Pole Dec 2010
© Guy Cotter
28 December 2010
Newsletter Dec 2010

Greetings adventure lovers!

Somehow another year has just slid by! How did that happen? Hopefully you’ve managed to fit in some great outdoor experiences in the last 12 months to make all the hard graft worthwhile. If you haven’t, scold yourself for being so remiss, then plan accordingly to make up for it in the coming year!

The highlight of my own past year was a trip across the polar plateau in Antarctica to the South Pole. Yep, it was cold and miserable at times, but what made it really special was being out there with good people having a great adventure. Those are the experiences I cherish and that is the attitude that we at AC bring to every trip that we do. That’s why, when you’re on one of our expeditions or journeys, you’ll feel that passion for the open spaces and camaraderie that we all enjoy sharing with our travelling companions.

Do you want to make a new years resolution that will improve your quality of life? Then get a hold of your year planner, block out dates for the trips you want to do this year (preferably with AC of course!) and squeeze the rest of your obligations into whatever time is left. Simple!

I wish you all the best for the festive season and new year, be safe out there and keep on moving.

Guy Cotter


 © Guy Cotter
South Pole lonely out there
© Guy Cotter
28 December 2010
A snapshot of recent trips

We’ve had success on all our Nepal post-monsoon expeditions this season with groups achieving Ama Dablam, Island Peak, Lobuche East and Kyajo Ri. We’ve also had some satisfying and memorable trekking trips through the region on Three Passes and Khumbu basecamp treks. Our Antarctic season is in full swing with Vinson ascents and the Last Degree to the South Pole being completed, while in South America we’ve concluded our first Aconcagua expedition for the season. We successfully completed the first of our new format Carstensz Pyramid expeditions in Western Papua during November with all members reaching the summit and we had a small private group climb Kilimanjaro on a luxury style expedition. The New Zealand climbing season has been blessed with fine weather in the early part of the season with many fine ascents achieved already and numerous courses.

New Zealand Guides Course Results

Congratulations to Gary Kuehn, Mike Madden and Stefan Sporli who all passed their recent NZMGA Summer Guiding exam, and especially to Gary for achieving his IFMGA Mountan and Ski guide qualification.


Three Peaks

 © Tim Robertson

Kyajo Ri summit
© Tim Robertson
28 December 2010
A highlight of this year’s Three Peaks expeditions has been the inclusion of Kyajo Ri as the final peak we attempt in the trilogy. Previously we’d been climbing Parcharmo as our final peak but conditions have deteriorated on this climb and hence the move to the virtually un-trodden Kyajo Ri.

This remote peak is a suitably challenging climb as the third peak in the trifecta. It has steep terrain and a pristine setting enabling members to put their experience gleaned from the previous climbs to good use. As well as covering a lot of terrain around the Khumbu valley region, the expedition provides good preparation for future Himalayan endeavours.

Both our post monsoon expeditions achieved success and although not all members stood on all the peaks, there was sufficient variety and time that if one was having an ‘off day’ there were still other summits to look forward to. High winds on our second trip saw the group turn back just shy of the summit of Island peak but the weather behaved and enabled summits to be achieved on the other peaks.


 © Lydia Bradey
Ama Dablam 10 summit day
© Lydia Bradey
06 November 2010
Ama Dablam

Our Ama Dablam 2010 expedition, led by Dean Staples along with Paul Rogers and Lydia Bradey, had a successful conclusion in early October. On arrival at the mountain other teams had not yet managed to get very high on the route so our strong guide and Sherpa team fixed the ropes to facilitate our summit ascents over two days. This then opened the way for a few of the lesser prepared teams to summit while many went home without completing the ascent. This technical climb is certainly no push-over even with a good level of support so it will remain as one of the gems of the Himalaya due to its challenges.


 © Mark Sedon
Vinson summit 10 Dec 2010
© Mark Sedon
14 December 2010
Vinson

Mark Sedon achieved a well timed summit on Vinson Massif during a short weather window in early December. While others spent many days at high camp waiting for an improvement, Mark and his team of strong climbers waited for the break in the fronts. When it showed promise of clearing they climbed to high camp - summitting the next day. They descended again just as another front was approaching and even managed to finish the trip a couple of days early. Congratulations to team member Tony Hampson-Tindale from South Africa for completing the Seven Summits with this climb.

Victor Saunders is running our December 29 Vinson departure so sign up for the dispatches to follow their progress.


 Group picture at the South Pole, 9 December 2010  © Guy Cotter
Ski Last Degree at South Pole
© Guy Cotter

Group picture at the South Pole, 9 December 2010

11 December 2010
Last Degree South Pole

This journey initiates 110km from the South Pole and team members travel by ski across the Polar Plateau to the South Pole. While it was early in the season and still rather cold, Guy Cotter’s team made good progress arriving at the Pole on Dec 9. A couple of windy days halted progress part way through the trip but improved sufficiently for the group to complete the journey. Guy said ‘it’s a hard trip in that the cold is omnipotent and the days' skiing challenging but it was one of the best trips I’ve ever done’. One of the team members turned 57 on the trip and another celebrated his 60th birthday!


 The tyrolean traverse on the summit ridge of Carstensz Pyramid. Adventure Consultants Nov 2010.  © Victor Saunders
Carstensz Tyrolean Traverse Nov 2010
© Victor Saunders

The tyrolean traverse on the summit ridge of Carstensz Pyramid. Adventure Consultants Nov 2010.

28 December 2010
Carstensz Pyramid

Our new format Carstensz expedition was a success with Victor Saunders leading members on Nga Pulu to acclimatise followed by the ascent of Carstensz. Our program of working with New Zealand helicopter pilots and B3 Squirrel helicopters to access the mountain has enabled us to ease the issues of access and egress. We have another departure planned for February with a couple of spaces left and a full trip in March. Anybody considering this climb should make immediate use of the opportunity before the inevitable political issues shut the door on access again. Congratulations to team member Sasko Kedev from Macedonia on completing his Seven Summits with this climb.
 


 Lakes on the Kongma La crossing. 28 Oct 2010  © Mark Sedon
Island Peak 10 Kongma La
© Mark Sedon

Lakes on the Kongma La crossing. 28 Oct 2010

29 October 2010
Island Peak

The post monsoon conditions were excellent in the upper Khumbu valley except for the two summit days of the climb! However, trip leader Mark Sedon managed to find the best window of opportunity and the group summitted and made it back down before 30cm of snow fell that night and the next day. A fine adventure and congratulations to all the team - their story (and a proposal!) is at Island Peak 2010 Dispatches.

Our next Island Peak trip is April 26 - May 19, go on, get amongst it!


Aconcagua #1 team
03 December 2010
Aconcagua

The entire Aconcagua Nov team reached high camp with the objective of a summit the next day. Unfortunately a very strong wind blew and the intense cold put paid to the summit climb as the climbers had to turn back to avoid cold injury. Normally we’d await better weather but this time the forecast didn’t promise any respite so the team backed off. The climbing team were all very realistic about the rationale for the descent which isn’t that hard to do when you are up in the bad weather. Our experienced Aconcagua leader Matias Prieto was disappointed with the outcome but is hopeful for better conditions on the January Aconcagua expedition he is also leading.


 © Paul Rogers
Tutoko climbing
© Paul Rogers
06 December 2010
New Zealand

We were blessed with beautiful weather early in the season with lots of ascents being achieved in October and November. Notable ascents were Paul Rogers on Tutoko with Mark Tootill and Tibor Hromadka climbing Cook and Aspiring back to back with Sylvia Moser.

We’ve had to curtail our Aoraki/ Mt Cook climbs early this season due to the warm temperatures cutting off access to the Linda glacier route. Last season we were treated to frequent small snowfalls throughout the seasons that kept the glaciers in good condition for most of the summer. As an alternative to Mt Cook are still able to climb great peaks such as Mt Tasman (NZ’s second highest) or any of the other great classics such as Mt Aspiring.


 © Mark Sedon
Antarctic Peninsula
© Mark Sedon
18 September 2003
Antarctic Peninsula 2011

This magical journey across the Drake passage starts in Ushuaia on the southernmost  tip of South America in February. The group will sail for a couple of days across the passage, then cruise around the sheltered islands of Antarctic Peninsula ski touring up and down some of the many peaks there. Mark Sedon and Victor Saunders will lead the trip and Mark will no doubt take the group to some of the best spots he’s visited previously as well as some new locations he’s been eyeing up. We work from a sailing boat and this gives us flexibility to move to where conditions are best for land-based adventures and a platform for watching whales, seals and penguins.  This trip is full but we are accepting bookings for the Antarctic Peninsula 2011/2012 season.


 Skiing the Vallee Blanche, Italian side. Chamonix Off-Piste Skiing at its best!  © Victor Saunders
Europe Chamonix Vallee Blanche
© Victor Saunders

Skiing the Vallee Blanche, Italian side. Chamonix Off-Piste Skiing at its best!

08 December 2010
Other exciting trips on the horizon

As mentioned the Carstensz trip in February has some space left, and we have Europe Ice Climbing, Chamonix Off-Piste Skiing and Haute Route ski touring options for you now also. Don't forget the big Everest 2011 climb where our planning is well underway and the accompanying Everest Basecamp Trek.

 

Archive:

Latest News

From the AC Blog page

  

11 Sep - Fit to Trek - How fit is fit enough for high altitude trekking?.....

AC Blog

Kilimanjaro Pvt 2017- Back to Arusha

  

11 Dec - After a big sleep, we hit the trail for the last time, enjoying a cool... 

Dispatches

Aconcagua 17/18 - Summit day report

  

13 Dec - Summit day report from guide Pablo: The team crawled out of bed... 

Dispatches

Vinson 17/18 - Trip 2 - High Camp

  

14 Dec - It took a couple of hours to dig out our camp after the storm and we finally... 

Dispatches

     

Three Peaks 17 - Lukla to Kathmandu

  

3 Dec - Woken up early by an airport siren and the not-so-dull roar of... 

Dispatches

Pvt EBC Trek 17 - Exceeding Expectations

  

19 Nov - What will possibly go down as one of the most successful and heroic... 

Dispatches

Ama Dablam 2017 - Final dispatch

  

7 Nov - There is a system to Lukla airport, though to those used to....

Dispatches

Island Peak 2017 - Last day

  

8 Nov - Today I am leaving Kathmandu after wrapping up our... 

Dispatches

Everest 2017 - Wrapping Up

  

31 May -  Last night our Nepali Staff were stoked to have cleared the mountain.......

Dispatches

 

Sherpa Future Fund

If you would like to support the victims and affected families of the Everest Base Camp Avalanche, please consider contributing to the Adventure Consultants Sherpa Future Fund. 
Learn More

 

2017

     

The Denver Channel - Colorado Woman on Top of the World

 

Newcastle Herald - Leah Jay climbs Everest

 

Stuff NZ - The 'bitter dispute' that led to knocking off Everest

23 June 2017 - Sometimes the biggest accomplishments in life happen by chance. For 45-year-old Wendy Gustin, of Golden, it was a bad break in her career that led to her standing atop the world.

 

  23 May 2017 - Australian businesswoman Leah Jay has reached the summit of Everest in memory of her son who died in 2008 after a battle with Motor Neuron Disease.   22 April 2017 - In 1951, four New Zealanders headed to the Himalaya to climb. Their primary objective was a previously unclimbed mountain called Mukut Parbat, Guy Cotter's father Ed Cotter was one of them.
        

Alan Arnette Blog
Fixing Everest

       
Alan Arnette interviews AC CEO Guy Cotter on the state of commercial guiding on Everest, and his recent article on 'Fixing Everest'.          

2016

     

Stuff NZ - Changes to the Hillary Step on Everest

 

Adventure Magazine - Mount Aspiring

 

Outdoor UAE - Mesmerising Mont Blanc

19 August 2016 - Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition Leader Mike Roberts discusses changes he saw to the Hillary Step this year following the 2015 Nepal earthquakes.   August 2016 - Dan Slater takes us on a climb of Mt Aspiring, with his story in Adventure Magazine  featuring the stunning photos of AC guide and photographer Thomas Vialletet.   August 2016 - Cynthia Salame and husband Samer Hajjah recently joined Adventure Consultants on an ascent of Mont Blanc, and she writes about her experience for Outdoor UAE Magazine.
         
       

Stuff NZ - AC Everest Team Successfully Summit

 

Action Asia article on Guy Cotter - Jan 2016

   
19 May 2016 - Wanaka expedition leader Mike Roberts, of Adventure Consultants, successfully guided a team of 21 climbers to the top of Mt Everest.   We recently caught up with Guy Cotter of expedition guides, Adventure Consultants, and asked about his involvement with the movie 'Everest' and the rebuilding of Nepal post-earthquake.    

 

2015

2014

 


 

2013

2012