Dean Staples
IFMGA Mountain Ski Guide
Based in Lake Hawea, New Zealand, senior guide Dean Staples leads both international expeditions and New Zealand trips. A multi-talented IFMGA guide with over two decades of guiding experience, Dean is a super friendly guy, with great patience and leadership skills.
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Bio
Dean is one of our most experienced guides, with a considerable number of high altitude achievements under his belt. He currently has 9 summits of Everest on his CV and was Lead Guide on our 2013 Everest Expedition, when he achieved a double summit of Everest and then Lhotse in just over 24 hours. In addition to guiding international expeditions, Dean is a key member of our New Zealand guiding team.In his spare time Dean can be found riding his motorbike, trying to master his kite surfing, or simply relaxing at home by the lake.
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Notable Achievements
Everest/Lhotse Double
- Summitted both in just over 24 hours, 2013
Everest (8,850m/29,035ft)- Has summited 9 times
- First New Zealander to summit from both the North and South sides
- Summited twice in one season, 2007
Seven Summits- Has climbed six of the seven, with only Denali left to go
Big Wall Climbing- Yosemite and Zion, USA
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International Expeditions
Seven Summits
Everest (8,850m/29,035ft)- Summits 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 (2x), 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013
- Lead Guide 2013, 2014
- Guide 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012
Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m/16,023ft)- Lead Guide 2008
Mount Elbrus (5,642m/18,510ft)- Lead Guide 2013 (pictured on the summit)
Mount Vinson (4,892m/16,050ft)- Lead Guide 2006, 2009, 2011, 2015
Aconcagua (6,962m/22,841ft)- Lead Guide 2012
Kilimanjaro (5,895m/19,340ft)- Lead Guide 2011 (pictured)
8,000m Peaks
- Lhotse (8,516m/27,939ft) - Lead Guide 2013
- Cho Oyu (8,188m/29,863ft) - 3 Summits
- Shishapangma (8,013m/26,289ft) - 1 Summit
- Dhaulagiri (8,167m/26,794ft) - Guide, 2017 (pictured)
- Manaslu (8,163m/26,781ft) - Lead Guide, 2017 (pictured, on Summit day)
- Broad Peak (8,051 m/26,414 ft) - Summit 2019
Himalayan Climbs
- Ama Dablam (6,828m/22,401ft) - Lead Guide 2001, 2010, 2014, 2015
- Mt Khuiten, Mongolia (4,375m/14,354ft) - Guide 2010
- Mera Peak (6,476m/21,246ft) - Lead Guide 2016
Other- Alpamayo (5,917m/19,412ft) - Lead Guide 2008
- Antarctic Peninsula, Yacht Trip - Lead Guide 2010
- Gulmarg Ski Touring - Lead Guide 2013
- South Pole Last Degree - Lead Guide 2015
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Qualifications
- IFMGA/NZMGA Mountain & Ski Guide
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Film And Safety Work
THE WILDEST DREAM:CONQUEST OF EVEREST
- Shot Everest Summit Footage, 2007, 2009
BEYOND THE LIMIT, Discovery Channel, TV Mini-Series- Shot Everest Summit Footage, 2007, 2009
EVEREST THE PROMISE, Australian Everest Documentary- Filmed all the mountain footage, 2010
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Special Projects / Other
- New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) - Assessor
- Harris Mountain Heli-Ski, NZ - Former Chief Guide (11 yrs)
- Himachal Heli Skiing, India - Lead Heliski Guide (3 yrs)
- TLH Heli Skiing, Canada - Lead Heliski Guide (3 yrs)
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Dean's Testimonials
"I had a great trip into Plateau Hut with Dean, he selected climbs around the hut which were challenging and achievable. I enjoyed and valued his guidance and instruction, especially his attention to detail and safety. Our conversations and friendly banter were an added bonus."
Mike Hall, NZ Ascents Week, 2019"Dean was brilliant…I cannot rate Dean highly enough. His confidence, professionalism, skill, organisation meant that I had total trust in him and the decisions he made – made for a great learning environment."
Jo Stilwell, NZ PIC, 2018"Dean was the perfect guide for us—his professionalism, patience, organisation and humour were all outstanding."
David Norton, NZ PIC, 2018"Dean was excellent. Found the balance between detailed explanation with relevant information and respecting where the group was at. Skilled climber, and skilled leader. A perfect combination."
Dale West, Australia, Mera Peak, 2016Follow Dean...